I would add that when you get a new bottle put it in a bag and freezer. I had an unopened bottle go solid.
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I was just thinking (which can be/is dangerous) if CCS could be applied effectively to spey rods. I would guess the drawback is the height needed to allow the deflection. Would a spey blank ccs be informative or not? I was also wondering if anyone runs CCS on a blank and then reruns it on the same blank after guides etc are wrapped. It seems to me that running the numbers on a finished rod wo
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I am interested in your suggestion for fighting bigger fish. In the fall the water flow turns into fast narrow stream where a short rod would be sufficient.
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If you have the entire male ferrule piece you are in a good position to fix it. I just did one like that and I opted to use up a cheap fly rod blank for the inner sleeve which had to be quite long since there was some long hairline cracks. Finding a suitable inner sleeve may be the hard part unless you have a lot of broken rods laying around. I used rod bond for the bonding agent. Good luck.
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Any sponsor who carries them and would like to chime in I would appreciate it. How does this mounting system compare to say a BLAG guide?
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I have used light recoils on 8 ft 3 wt and have not experienced the "singing." One solution is to use the heavy saltwater recoils which I am told will eliminate the "singing." There is not much difference in mass between the light and heavy recoils and the price is the same. Tom's suggestion looks interesting but I could not locate a price for the Pac Bay minima guides. I
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Curious as to what brand of thread you are using. I switched to Sulky metallic even though the color selection leaves a little to be desired to avoid the problems you are having. In my limited experience I have not had a lot of success trying to fix after the fact. Maybe you could wrap a dowel rod and experiment on the fix first. Good luck
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CA does not require pressure to cure and will not bond most plastic surfaces. Regular CA will attack styrofoam plastic (EVA??). There is a low odor CA which is used by modelers and can bond styrofoam. The higher viscosity thicker CA versions take longer to cure without accelerator. BTW the regular thin CA can cause respiratory problems. Low odor CA is much friendlier to use but is quite a b
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That is a good idea--glad to hear someone tried it. CA is readily available.
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I have a lot of teak pieces but I don't think the teak I have has enough "grain" to make it all that interesting for use on reel seats etc. As I seem to recall teak was used on rods years ago. I have finished some using a CA tru oil instead of CA BLO. I would stick with the Tru Oil.
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Yep I had a rod broken by ups using the kung fu thru the wall not damaging or scratching the tube blow. Must have been Jean Claude Van Dame who delivered the strike. That was the last time and hopefully the last time I use ups. I packed the ups recommended way and I recall how the counter guy said that the Post Office new nothing about shipping and how PO broke rods and tips on a regular basis.
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By my calculations you are about 90 deg F. Others can chime in but your pot life is greatly reduced above 75F about 25 Centingrade. Since you do not have flexcoat problems with the same set up it suggests that the TM is finnicky under your conditions. Is it lite build or high build?
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Could you have contamination on the foil plate? Could the plate be sprayed with silicone? I also suspect humidity is very high which could be part of the problem.
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I second the idea of the digital caliper. The least used tool I have if I can find it is the tip top gage. Most rod blanks or dealers provide the tip top size.
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A good tip is always welcomed. BTW I bought another vacuum small brush assortment at Harbour Freight (after I set my old nozzle adapter down and could not find it for a week) which has a three foot or so flexible about 1/2 to 5/8 inch hose. Many times I will use a mini vacuum brush to clean dust off of wood turnings, cork handles etc. The flex hose is very handy and the price was good. Much ea
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This is a site maintained by Mike Barkley. You might want to check it out.
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It has been suggested to use Recoil for the tip section and then use the ceramics for the lower sections. If you like the look that might be a way to go.
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I had almost the exact same problem but the male ferrule piece was easily removable. I sacrificed a cheap fly rod to make a sleeve for the ferrules much like the O"Quinn article. Essentially I reused the old broken ferrule on the sleeve. I opened it up a little when I rod bonded it so that the fit would be a little shorter and tighter (hard to describe) to seat, Then I fit the sleeve int
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Whatever one you decide upon get a variable speed model. I think it is well worth the extra money. PSI Turncrafter Pro variable speed is hard to beat for the money. Check out prices on Amazon for free shipping if it is still available. I have the Turncrafter Pro to which I added the VS, and I have a small Turncrafter VS which is a much smaller 1 morse taper lathe. I use pen mandrels and bushi
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LS Supreme lite and high build get my vote over the threadmaster. LS has good pot life and no curing problems. Actually my first and sentimental favorite is Crystal Coat the Clemens finish. Of course it is no longer available. Pick one and do some experimentation with mixing and applying etc. Permagloss will require multiple coats not just two coats.
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You might just want to go to penn state industries website. PSI has many good priced chucks and adapters. I assume you have a #2 morse taper and and 1 x 8 tpi headstock. If so check out PSI. The jacobs chuck would have a taper to fit into the headstock. You might also consider a collet chuck system which will hold the mandrels very securely. I have both. In my experience the three jaw ch
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Jeff Thanks I have a Harbor Freight in the area. I will have to stop there and see if that store has one. A speed control would be handy to have around.
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Great description of your method. I tried knitting needles years ago but I can't seem to find a satisfactory way to use them.
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I am experimenting with hand turning but I don't always remember to turn it. I guess the thinner finish would lend itself better to hand turning. I applied the finish by hand on the repair I am doing and then spun it 15 rpm. Not bad and certainly looked better than the original job I did 5 years ago. I am not as pleased with the second coat which I applied spinning. Patience needs to overcome
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Wow much faster than I imagined.
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I made two topics because perhaps application and drying are really different. I am using a 15 rpm motor for both but I feel that the drying is better slower rather than faster. Slower seems to yield less bubbles and better leveling. Finish which sets on a "flat" surface is bubble free and level. I guess I could put a dimmer on the motor. I do have a 4 rpm motor but for that
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I have a 15 rpm finish motor but I think finish would be applied better with a higher speed. What speeds do you apply finish?
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On the syringe you might look at using one of the big flavor injectors used to inject marinade.
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I have seen the hardner at H. Depot.
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Can't tell you about those but I have a couple of old Herter's rods which I really liked. Unfortunately I can only fish one rod at a time. I loved that place and the catalog.
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