I think most guys would suggest you drill first and then turn on a mandrel so that the turning is concentric to the hole and then the rod blank. I use a pen vise and a drill press to drill the holes first. I find the drilling on the lathe to be tedious. Drilling first less likely to split.
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I looked up those rubber dental bands--wow cheap but I found batches of 5000 in latex and non latex neon colors etc--they even come in various strengths and sizes. I need to go to the dentist and see if he has any. I think I would prefer these to the surgical tubing I now use.
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I had something similar with the smaller turncrafter. Stopped suddenly after working very well. There are copper brushes in the motor that I adjusted to make contact. As I recall I stretched them out. My Pro is at home so I can't look at it to see if it has the same setup as the smaller lathe.
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I second the DNA which you can buy by the gallon usually in the paint department. I also use it for cleaning up wood turnings after sanding and during finishing stabilized wood.
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I second Roger's suggestion. A break like that would break my heart. Good luck.
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Since this is your first rod, no matter which ones you choose I suggest you give a trial run on the finish epoxy over a dowel wrapped with thread. This way you can iron out your technique and relax when you actually finish the rod.
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Fly Rod Building made Easy by Art Sheck 2002.
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Which article references TP and PR? Thanks
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If you turn any pens then you have all the knowledge you need to turn seats.
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I hope that a new data site appears soon and that more individuals post data.
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If one wants to mix ceramic guides and recoils with the recoils on the tip (1/4 to 1/3 of the rod) it best to match the ID of the ceramics to the ID of the recoils on the tip? Because of the smaller ID of ceramics relative to the same nominal ring size of single foot snakes a considerably heavier ceramic is necessary to closely match ID's.
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The key to your usage is that you have a large "data base." Without a data base for comparison the CCS raises more questions than it answers. It is the data base which allows for useful comparisons.
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Hook keepers are a great idea.
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I am curious what the Blag frames are constructed from since they do not appear to be magnetic like the BLG frames.
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If I look at the spinning blanks that are ERN posted and were to choose one with a ERN in the 13 to 16 range, would that be a reasonable candidate for a 10 wt or hier fly / spin convertible. If that makes sense then I have a recently purchased a 7 ft 3 piece spinning blank that when I tried to CCS ran out of cents trying to get the 1/3 deflection so it will come in 16+ERN. I am planning on
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I am not a "henny penny" type but I would be reluctant to add something to a kit which could cause some injury like a razor blade--no offense intended. You might consider a list of items one should carry and if the person chooses not to it is really his/her responsibility. In the old days I liked the stick matches that strike anywhere which are not available any more that I am aware
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Thanks--nice to get some feed back since I have quite a few coming.
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Thanks Denis Do you use ceramic tip tops?
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Here is what bothers me concerning guide sizing on a fly rod. Why can you get by with smaller id ceramic guides than with single or double foot snake guides? I mean if you are going to use #2 snake guides the equivalent ceramic would be a 7 or 8 ceramic to give the same opening, yet most builders would suggest size 6 or even smaller would be adequate which have an opening around 4 mm give or t
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Thanks for sharing your technique- a very interesting procedure. Some nice beautiful veneer there--looks very very nice reminds me of amboyna. I really appreciate wood and its natural beauty. I am surprised that the veneer was limber enough to allow it to be wrapped around. If you do this again you might consider CA to seal the veneer before the final finish. Good for you!!!!!
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Well I wandered into Feather-craft again today for a shirt and took a closer but quick look at some of the TFO fly rods in the 9 to 12 weight class and I was surprised if not somewhat shocked at the large double foot strippers on these rods. I think one 12 wt had double foot ceramics all the way up the rod. Using my fingernail to measure the ID of a stripper at about 14 to 15 MM. The tip tops a
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Thanks for the mimima sizes. I am trying to compare those to the BLAG sizes. I just don't want to order one of each to measure and then order a set.
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Thanks but the F guides I saw in the catalog have a ceramic ring not like the ring minima guides. PAC bAY is calling them Model F Minima/Ceramic guides on page on page 26 right under the Minima 3 and 4 guides. I got the impression that these were a smaller ceramic ring than the regular size ceramic ring. Maybe I misunterstood the catalog.
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I would appreciate if anyone who has measured the ID of the minima F ceramic guides would post the sizes. These are listed on the same page in the Pac Bay catalog right under the new Minima guides. They are not listed on Mike Barkley's site for guide sizes. Thanks
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What about nail polish? You can keep some clear in the tackle box or vest. Before I knew better I repaired old rods with fishing line and nail polish.
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Would you go section to section from the butt aligning the pieces for the straightest axis or or spine the sections and adjust the tip section to find the straightest axis on which to build or any other idea?
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I feel that the ferrule wraps on a 4 piece rod I built for my son actually save the rod and kept it repairable after the rod was broken. It seems to me that the nature of the blank construction generally minimizes hoop strength and that a ferrule wrap is an insurance policy.
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Thanks so I reloaded with the cents and tried an oscillation count--16.5 seconds for 20 swings top of swing to top of swing. The sun is starting to shine on my area so I need to hurry.
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