My initial attempts were at colder ambient temps. Since I am not about to heat the entire house for the epoxy to cure I chose to go with finishes that do not appear to be temp dependent. I keep trying to justify a drying box. I suppose if my rods were all 7 ft or less I would just build the box. I would guess that 70 to 72 should do it eventually. Good luck. All of the finishes seem to have th
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I had a similar experience as well. I did some tests with it and basically never bothered to put it on a wrap. It seems to be very temperature sensitive IMO. What temperature are you curing at?
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Thanks--I was wondering about the similarity of the Rodsmith (Pac Bay) and the old or regular Gudebrod NCP.
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I was looking for some NCP thread but I could only find Gudebrod in larger spools none of the small spools I used to see. I do see some Pac Bay thread I believe in the smaller spools. I would like to get an assortment of the colors available but not in 700 yard spools.
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Thanks--Seemed OK but I did not want to have one of those moments in the middle of doing it recalling some obscure reference that come to mind and say "oops I did not think of that--"
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I did my first coat this morning about 3 1/2 hours ago. Since my schedule changed I have time to do a second coat on the large double foots today. So can I recoat in 8 to 10 hours? This would be no different than an overnight wait. My first coat is a little on the thin side on the double footers using LS high build. I had originally planned only one coat but I think the appearance would be
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If you are like me there is a great amount of satisfaction after building and catching fish on a rod you built not just from a kit but from all the items you assemble and fabricate. Of course acquiring a lathe got me into penturning as well. I will have to try making winding checks as well.
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I was experimenting with this on some test wraps, I was not sure if there would be a lack of adhesion or just sort of footballing like excess epoxy on a wrap. I figured why not try it and see what happens.
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I am just curious as to what the result is of recoating wraps after several days without scuffing the previous finish. I tried this and it seems that the finish tended to shrink a little toward the middle of the wrap but otherwise seemingly OK. Is this what one should expect?
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Well I can't move them easily with the index finger. I do need the index plus the thumb to move them. As I say this is the loosest I have wrapped guides but the wraps themselves are holding together well. Perhaps my test guide wrap will provide the answer. There are a few little mistakes as well that normally I would change. Originally, I had planned to wrap half and coat etc but the time
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To make a long story shorter, I find myself sort of under the gun to get a rod done for November. I work on these projects at the house where I plan on living permanently in a few years so I have limited time to do my other projects . A new furnace installation took away at least two weeks available for the rod along with other issues taking up time. Normally, I use sulky but I decided to use F
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That is a dryer!!! Nice set up. I like the air filter on the end as well. I also have three porcelain light fixtures that I have found during the process of trying to organize my stuff which I thought about using as well.
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Thanks Mark--do you have a fan on the box or just let the box vent naturally from the bottom of the heat lamps to the top of the box on the other side?. 30 cu ft suggests you have a pretty large box and multiple rods drying at the same time. I also wonder if the lamps could be controlled by say a router speed controller?
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I have a couple of 250w IR bulbs and receptacles which I am reclaiming from installation of a bathroom exhaust fan. I am looking for a rodbuilding use for these bulbs. I keep toying with the idea of building a drying box but I never get that far. Does anyone use IR heat lamps during the epoxy curing process? Are these bulbs just too powerful?
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Looks good to me too.
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Yep--Tom has it nailed I looked at my old @#$%& and there is a flat on the rod as well as a matching washer.
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Do you have nylon or plastic washers next to the spool or metal? I would suspect plastic is better next to the spool. You might consider some epoxy or double nuts on the threaded rod where it is attached to the base. You need to keep the rod from turning as well. Just some ideas to try.
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Fly Rod Building Made Easy by Art Scheck is the first book I got and the best for fly rods only. Lots of nice pictures. I don't know if it is still in print. If I were starting again I would do some thread wraping and finishing on a dowel rod. Practice will relieve a lot a anxiety when you do it for real. Mudhole has it along with quite a few other books. Build on the straightest axis and sa
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These are induction motors on the turncrafter and will not respond correctly to an external vs device like a router speed adjustment. Overheating can be a problem and motor burnout. Besides you have one more item laying around in the way. These are 1/2 hp motors.
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VS was not an option when I got mine. I hated changing the belts on my Turncrafter so I left it mid range for almost 4 years. I bought the VS conversion and I love it just like I preferred my smaller lathes which had variable speed already. I you want to do any buffing or polishing it is a real plus to have variable speed. Now it is not a true variable speed--O to max but in ranges like the J
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Very clever--good idea.
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I tried a jig but I have settled on using a pen blank drilling vise because the cork is automatically centered. I do about 4 or 5 at a time that way. It is slower and requires some fiddling around and would not be a large or fast production method.
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I have both and I find that I prefer the 4 rpm to the 18 rpm. I believe the 18 or higher rpm motors could be controlled by a router speed controller. I bought the speed controller but then I just made a PVC chuck for the 4 rpm motor. If you think about it, builders used to and some still do hand turn the rods so that would suggest a slower motor. In the end each builder has a preference and
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What brand of chuck? I take it the chuck is for a wood lathe. I have a PSI 2 jaw and a nova which has 4 jaws and all the jaws move together. Perhaps I don't understand the problem.
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Assuming it is fresh and very green, you should at least seal the ends to slow the drying process. You might check Woodcraft to see what they have available. You could just dip the ends in wax. Years ago the ends would just be painted. I believe green wood can be treated with pentacryl. Turning stock is typically dipped in wax to keep from checking and splitting. You could even saran wrap the
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Humidity and temp have a lot to do with it as does the thickness of the coat. Usually 6 to 8 hours in a dry condition will do it but I like to do overnight. I have something I am working on which I am not sure will be what I want (A cheap handle which I took the filler off and has some interesting grain with filled spots) and I took it out of the basement yesterday to bring it in the AC to get t
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4000 MM might give you what you want and then go hier to 6000 maybe 8000 and see how that looks to you. I would try cutting the finish back with 400 grit (i prefer Norton sheets and cut into strips) and then reapply a thin coat of tru oil. A tripoli or white diamond buff might work as well. Reducing the gloss has to be done when it is completely dry. In spite of being a satin finish tru oil ca
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I assume the handle is not on the rod yet and that it is cork. I would just sand it down and apply a light coat. Tru oil will build thickness and gloss. If I were to try to just tone it down I would use micro mesh. If you are going to try to do any buffing the finish needs to cure a long time.
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I got mine from Bingham Enterprises on the right.
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That is good advice--I hope I remember,
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