I purchase nearly all of my material from them. They have been very helpful with any request. I have no hesitation recommending them to any rodbuilder...
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I would like to start hand writing rod information on the rods I build. Things like the customer name, rod weight, line weight, etc. Does anyone have any information as to what type of material I need to get started? What type of ink to use. What is the best type of pen. Is there a particular letterstyle I should use? Thanks for the help.
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I hope to receive mine soon. The article on rod breakage sounds great.
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I use the Forhan Wrap on all of my single foot guides. I like the way it looks, holds and finishes.
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I'm a Chromaseal fan.
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I re-upped my subscription in June and I don't think I made the cutoff. How do I go about getting the issue?
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Nearly all of the rods I build have feathers on them. I use Chromaseal CP over a base of light colored thread. I then apply the feathers with a 1/2 cut of the CP. Next I wrap a thread around the feathers semi-tightly to hold them in place and keep them down on the rod. This doesn't need to be real tight only tight enough to keep the feathers down. After it's dry I remove the thread and foll
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I just repaired the handle of a rod I built for a customer who slammed it in his trunk. I didn't charge him anything since it was a simple repair. That same customer tried to reef a lure out of a tree (he fishes mainly in small rivers) and broke the tip section of a 2 piece ultralight. It snapped about 8 inches above the ferrule. Fortunately the rod manufacturer replaced the section. I too h
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I think I'm # 6. Hopefully I got mine. Oh Please, Please, Please.................
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And one more vote for the SCIII. I just had two customers request the SCIII 3S70MF2 for walleye rods. Many of my customers like the SCIII rods...
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I have had nothing but positive experiences with @#$%&. I order my material from them when I can and the service has been excellent. Even when I screwup they will work to make it right. It's a good company to work with....
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Your customer will love the blank. I've made 3 rods using that blank and have had nothing but praise for them. I liked them so much I made one for myself. As for guides all have been made with #6 running guides and 3 Fuji BYAG guides to the choker. I know this seems like alot of guides but the rod performs well and all of my testing shows it works. I'm going to go to the micro guides on the
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The one's I use for my UL builds are the 3S66ULF2 or the 3S66ULF. Both are great UL rods with very nice sensitivity, light weight and a fast tip.
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For the rods I build I keep it at 1/8" including the trim wrap. Just remember that smaller guides need less infront of the foot. If it's too long it doesn't look right. As well it adds extra weight.
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I built my own rod wrapper and added a seperate Flex Coat wrapping motor setup to it. FlexCoat sells the wrapping motor on a stand seperately just for people like us who want to customize or power their wrapper. Check with @#$%&. They have the motors there.
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Is it done yet? Is it done yet? Is it done yet? Is it done yet?......
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I simply cut the strip in half or thirds then do a trial fit with the reel seat. I add more or remove some as required. I usually like to have a 1/3 to 1/2 inch gap between the strips which I then fill with Rod Bond. I've not had to resort to any glue or tape to hold the material together. Good Luck.
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Dark Green wraps with Gold Metallic trim bands, Tan inlays on Chestnut guide wraps with Metallic Brown trim bands
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Put down another thin coat over the top of it. Be very sure that your ratio of hardener to resin is spot on and mix the epoxy thouroughly. that will then set and take care of the problem.
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The St. Croix SCIII series has excelent blanks at a good price. They have a nice selection in the size you are looking for. The vendors to the left have a good selection.
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What if any is the difference between the Pac Pay and American Tackle rod wrappers? They look the same. If they are the same who actually makes them?
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Then there's that ever popular using 5-min epoxy as guide finish.....
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The first place to start is Ray Adams Rod Builders Library (http://rodbuilding_tutorials.webs.com/). It has a whole section on weaving and one of the items he shows is letter weaving. Then if you continue to weave pick up on one of the weaving books available. I believe one is by Jim Upton that's supposed to be excellent. You can also pick up the Doc Ski DVD on weaving that will answer even m
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Jerry, I just completed a 6'6" ultra-lite that uses a small Shimano reel. I ended up using 9 guides (25, 16, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, TT). It turned out to be exactly what I needed when I did the static test. Do a static test and see if it isn't the right setup.
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I use it on all of my wraps and have found it works very well. Just make sure it dries well before you apply the epoxy.... Don't ask....
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Merry Christmas to all. Please remember the reason for the season. God bless all of you, fellow rod builders, and have a happy new year...
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It was -11 here this morning so I think mine is frozen in a postal carrier van someplace waiting for spring...
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Is there a way to rub out scratches on the finish of a butt wrap? I just completed a rod last night and left it in the dryer overnight. Since it was -11 overnight and not being an energy waster I had the house down to 60 deg and the finish didn't quite get hard. It still felt a bit "soft". Then I noticed a couple of scratches in the finish that somehow became apparent. Do I need to
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I have to agree with Jim. Order an SCIII blank and use the Alconite giudes. It's a great setup. This is the info from the St. Croix website. 3S70MLF2 Bass/Walleye AVS70MLF2 7' ML FAST 2 piece 4-10lb 1/8-3/8 oz 0.410 butt dia 4.5 tip dia 1.8oz weight (handle kits)HKS-4 / HKS-5 $105. The SCIII makes great rods for a good price. Use the Alconite guides on this and you'll end up with a great r
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Thanks to everyone for the help. I created a good looking grip and foregrip with all of you help. Thanks again...
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