When it comes to feather inlays I know there are many different ways to go about it. For example using CP vs. Permigloss. I did my first test run on a inlay last night. Set the feather using CP. Turned out nice and was a lot easier than I thought.

My question is this. When using CP to fix feathers, do I run the risk of the feather curling at all when I do the epoxy? I wouldn't think so, but I just wanted to ask.

And when doing feather inlays do most people use lighter colored theads as an underlay? I've notice with the first couple I did, which I laid right on the blank that when they dry they blend right it with the blank.

I have a black blank, and was using Guinea fowl feathers.

Also, what are some feathers that most are using. I've got some Guinea feathers, Golden and Ring neck pheasant and Jungle fowl on the way. What else are you guys using? If you would like to say.

Thanks again,
Mike

Mike Jay is really nice so is wood duck with the black and white. Thats just to name a few. There are loads of nice feathers out there. Try Siskiyou Aviary to the left.

To get good colour scemes I bought a flytying reference book for feather wing atlantic salmon flies.As Im in Scotland loads of reference here Alot of the feathers listed you cant get anymore but theres loads that you can or substitutes will be listed. Gives you endless combos.

Hope this helps

[solwaycustomcomponents.blogspot.com]

Anglers Roost also offers feathers (for fly tying) that should work just fine for rod application. You should have no problem with the feathers curling - as long as you got good coverage. I always use two coats of CP just to be sure.

Nearly all of the rods I build have feathers on them. I use Chromaseal CP over a base of light colored thread. I then apply the feathers with a 1/2 cut of the CP. Next I wrap a thread around the feathers semi-tightly to hold them in place and keep them down on the rod. This doesn't need to be real tight only tight enough to keep the feathers down. After it's dry I remove the thread and follow with a full strength of CP. This is also wrapped down until dry. Remove this thread and coat with your favorite rod finish. This is a very similar/nearly identical to the process as found in Rodmaker magazine.

As for feathers I use Ring Neck Pheasant capes. I can then pick the ones I need to get the effect I want.

I hope this helps...

Is there some place to learn more about feather inlays? I don't do anything like this, but I'd like to do one.

Mike, Wade, unhide your e-mail address or send me an e-mail mbarkley@wowway.com

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2009 10:54AM by Mike Barkley.

I first rinse my feathers off in warm water to make sure there is no oils or stuff on them. Pat dry on a paper towel. I use a flex coat brush to lay down CP then coat over after it is in place. The CP I have found can be softened with plain water if you want to move the feather. After in place several coats of CP to replace air. Then finish when dry.

Bill - willierods.com

wbriner@hotmail.com

Hello Customers:
I do have a wide variety of molted feathers for rod inlays. Here is the current list:

Grey's Peacock Body


Amhurst Pheasant

Reeves Pheasant

Red Golden Pheasant

Peacock Crests

Variety of chicken feathers


Kate
Siskiyou Aviary.com

Kate's feathers are awesome. I called and she put together a nice package of feathers for me. I just kept the ones I wanted and sent back the ones I didn't want (along with a check for those I kept). Couldn't be any easier than that.
I particularly like the Peacock crests. The color just JUMPS out of the inlay once the finish is applied!


Walt

One good way to make the darker color feathers show nicely is to put the inlay on a ramp coming out from the front grip or front of the reel seat, tapering down to the blank, using Batson foam reel seat shims. Very light in weight, with finish looks like ivory, takes flex coat very well, easy to make on a drill press. Be careful, it "machines" very quickly-it's easy to go too fast and end up too small.

I really like ramps on rods I use for jigging as it gets the hand on a "hard" extension of the blank comfortably-they are the best shape for ergonomics that I have found. All the complex jobs with finger grooves, funny tapers, etc, are not as good as a simple cone.