Andrew, I got some from Mark Crouse a few years ago at the ICRBE. I checked for Mark's website, but it appears to no longer be active.
Forum: rodboard

Speaking of getting hot, the acrylic heats up pretty fast when you are drilling out the piece. I drill mine before turning, and put it on a mandrel a la Andy Dear's turning video. But go slow, because you can damage the piece from the heat. Especially light or white acrylics. They can discolor.
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Didn't find St. Croix on the floor plan. Will Jason be there?
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Didn't see the show, but I did have the good fortune to tour the factory in Park Falls. I was very impressed with their attention to quality.
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Thanks, Tom. Makes sense to me. I can oversleeve it. It would have looked better with an inner sleeve, but I see your point about the extra stiffness.
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I have a 3-piece White River 4wt, 5'8" long, that a customer broke about 4" north of the hookkeeper. I'm wondering if because it is such a light rod, can I get by with just inserting a sleeve inside the blank and regluing it, and doing a long wrap over the break. Will that be strong enough, or do I need to put a sleeve over the break as well? It will look cleaner if I don't put the sle
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I'm trying to get to Angler's Roost website with the link on the sponsor's list, but it's not working. What is their address? I want to inquire about bamboo blanks.
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Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz......just kidding. Way too deep for me. Who'd have thought we could think that hard about fishing?
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You got carded for buying epoxy in WalMart? Did you ask the clerk how old one must be to buy glue for sniffing in Arizona?
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I have a customer looking for a 9'6" 10/11 wt fly rod, and I can't seem to find a blank to match his desire. I can find 10/ 8 wts, or 9' 12 wts, but no 9'6" blanks in the weight he wants. Anyone know of a source for this blank? He wants a fast action rod.
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I have used Micro Set for years with no problems. But I follow Jimi's instructions to the letter. Your first coat of finish must be completely cured. I wait at least 16 hours. Then, I apply the decal using the directions, and wait at least twelve hours before applying the top coat. Never a cloud problem. I wonder if that wouldn't work for you.
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I have built myself a few surf rods on some Amtack graphite composite blanks I got at Mudhole a few years ago, and I really like the way they perform, but on the 9 footer, I am noticing some rust marks at the guide feet. I built it with Fuji Hardloy guides. I am going to be building an 8' surf rod for a customer, and I do not want the same thing to happen to his guide feet. I would appreciate s
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Okay, I'm a little confused here. When I sat in the Micro Guide rod seminar in High Point last February, I watched a demonstration designed to show a decrease in resonant frequency when guide size was decreased. Barry, you are saying that you saw an increase in resonance when your guides got smaller. Did I miss something in High Point, or am I missing something now?
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Donald, the easiest way to make sure your pictures are small enough to upload is to email them to yourself. Go to the folder where you have the files saved, and select them all. You do that by clicking once on the first one to select it, then hold down the Ctrl key and click on the rest of the ones you want to send. Then right click on one of them and select "Send to" and then Mail Rec
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You need to find a copy of Andy Dear's turning DVD. He suggests, and I have done it, that after you drill out the blank for the seat insert, you slide it on the corresponding mandrel and secure it by applying five minute epoxy to each end of the seat, glueing it to the mandrel at the ends only. Then after you have turned the piece to your desired shape, you simply remove the epoxy with a parting
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Pac Bay, Amtack, same difference. I have a PacBay with the original chuck, and I do not have any problems. I make sure my rod is level, and I make sure the rod is turning clockwise. This is opposite of the way you turn the tightening wing. That way, it doesn't come loose. I do have the Pac Bay dryer, and it is basically the same chuck, but I have experienced an occasional problem with a tapered v
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I will be doing a one-hour seminar on fishing rods at the local Gander Mountain in May. I plan to start with basic rod construction, talk about power versus action, because very few people understand the difference, and then talk about application to fishing scenarios. I will conclude with a discussion on innovation, like spiral wraps and split grips & seats, and micro guides. My plan is to u
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Hey, what about mandrels? You have to glue the rings up on something.
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Jon, I chose to purchase a PSI midi lathe, and it's true, they are reasonably priced. I got mine with a 3-jaw chuck and a jacobs chuck. I recommend a 4 jaw chuck. That's my next investment. What you will realize after you get the midi lathe, is that it's way more than you'll need to turn just cork. So you'll begin to want to turn wood and acrylics for handles and seats. When you do, be prepared t
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Mudhole used to carry an adjustable seat. I built a 9' surf rod with one of them so I could adjust the position. I don't see them in their catalog anymore. You might check with them for a source, though.
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If I'm from the midwest, I'm hoping I can get out , but am delayed getting back.
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Jeff, I use Threadmaster all the time, and I never use a syringe. I mark the 1 Dram line and the 2 Dram line on a plastic mixing cup with a Sharpie (so I can see the line better), and fill hardner to the first line, resin to the second line. Then I mix for three minutes. No less. I've never had a failure. I do warm the TM up in water in the sink for about 5-10 minutes first. If I need more, I ma
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I'll be at the Expo, as always. But I had to miss JP's last year as well. I'd drive to HighPoint anytime my schedule allows for a rodbuilder's event of any kind.
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Thanks to Todd for the quick response to my email, and with his help getting my order done. I have been to Mudhole two or three times over the past three years, and they have been dealing with road construction on the main street in front of their street since I've been going there. I think the construction workers there are making a career out of that project. I didn't think they'd have anything
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I've tried three times to rreach MudHole today, and I've used the toll-free and the regular number. Neither one rings. Anyone out there from MudHole know if there's a problem? Anyone else tried to call today?
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Thanks for the input gentlemen. I too, like the consistency of Rod Bond over the five minute epoxy, but I need to give some thought to how much time I have for the grip/seat assembly during the first night of class. If I can use the 10 Minute RB, clamp the assembly for 30 minutes, and move on, it might work. Most of the fly rods in this class are 4 pc, so we could progress to learning to wrap on
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I'm getting ready to do a couple more rodbuilding classes, and I have been using 5 minute epoxy to glue up handles & seats quickly so we can move on in the class. I would like to try the new 10 minute Rod Bond in my next class. I always use the traditional Rod Bond when I build a rod, because I can allow for the time for it to cure. I don't have that much time in the class. Has anyone used th
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I have seen folks pier fishing with sabiki rigs, before in Myrtle Beach. I don't know if they were after bait to use on kings, or if they were after Spanish Mackeral. Thanks for the lesson.
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Tom, I logged in to the phorum with my ID as you identified it, and clicked on the Photos button above, and I was directed right to the photos. But when I clicked on the link in Bill Stevens' original post in this thread, it directed me to a screen that said "Only registered users may view images." It directed me to register. Instead, I logged in as I had a while ago, even though I neve
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So I wanted to see the images posted on the Photo section, but apparently I need to be a registered user first. I am registered on the phorum, and when I put my user name & password in at the photo page I get a message that says they are already in use. I'm guessing they mean by ME! Am I supposed to select a different ID & PW?
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