I built a spinning rod on a Pac Bay Plum blank, and I used Gudebrod Cobalt (50) to wrap the AmTack Chrome/Holographic guides, and I used Gudebrod Goldenrod (209) for trim bands and inlays. I did an open butt wrap with the goldenrod predominant, with cobalt accent. I think it looks really sharp. You might think about that combination of colors.
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I had a guy come to me with his father's old solid fiberglass Heddon casting rod, I'm guessing circa 1950-60, and it was a wreck. He wanted it restored, for nostalgia. The rod probably cost $5-10 when new. He paid $140 to have it restored. The point is, as has been made, it may not make sense to us, but if it makes sense to the customer, then move forward.
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Andy, I just ordered my first 15 minute gel and the 5 minute tip top adhesive. Will the tip adhesive soften with heat if I need to repair/replace a tip?
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Okay, I give up. I have tried several times to register for the photo board, and I can't seem to get in. Can someone please tell me the secret code to unlocking this photgraphic vault?
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Since I live in North Carolina, I believe I will accept Billy's challenge, and build a custom ice rod.So my first question is will a 24" blank work, or should it be closer to 28"?
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Bruce, I suggest that you gather all the colors of thread you have in your possession, and build a color wand for future decisions on wrap color. I used a dowel about the same diameter as a bass rod, painted iti black, and did two wraps of each color thread I had. I then coated one of them with color preserver, and then applied finish to both wraps, labeling them with the thread number and "
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Pat, how many handles are you looking to have made? Ten? A hundred? Or just individual handles to order? There are dozens of guys that frequent this forum with the ability to turn handles to spec, myself included. If I can help, email me at franpark@roadrunner.com.
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I always use a hair dryer to soften finish. I have never used a heat gun. I figure if you can hold a hair dryer to your head, it shouldn't be too hot for a rod. Even then I am careful not to over heat the wrap. After reading this post, I'll be even more careful.
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The same or less? Gees, Tom, don't give anything away. It's already the best bargain in rodbuilding. Eight bucks a day, and free parking? I'm all about it.
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I just read the post inquiring about VMT RodMaker. I have a copy of it, and I like it. But it is not shareware. I paid for my copy. I have had it several years, but called about a problem I had when my computer crashed about a year ago, and got help then. Here is the contact info I have for VMT: PO Box 618, Rogue River, OR 97537 1-800-457-7818 (9AM-5PM Pacific Time) Don Stracener is the deve
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Tom, I am experiencing a log in problem this morning. I tried to log in, but got a message saying my ID & PW were not correct, but I was still logged in well enough to post a message. However, when I tried to view photos, I was told only registered users may view photos. Am I doing somewthing wrong? Or might there be a glitch"
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Ed, I used to use the method for applying trim bands that hid the tag under the wrap, and I have a 5-wt fly rod that has the same "artifact of process" as you describe. I have since switched to a method of adding trim bands that Tom K. showed me, that is applied after the wrap is completed. While I'm not very good at describing the method here, it is accomplished by wrapping the thread
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I have a request to build a one-piece 7' spinning rod to throw large swimbaits, like the California bass fisherman use for the 10# hogs in lakes like Castaic. The customer uses 20# Power Pro line, wants the rod to be as light as possible, but still sturdy enough to handle 20-30# stripers. I'm thinking throwing the 10 inch baits would be similar to large crainkbaits. Would a moderate action be
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Like Mike, I have toured St. Croix. After applying the finish, the person applying the FC hits all the wraps with a heat gun to help level and remove any bubbles. They work from a simple aluuminum pie plate with finish spread out, so bubbles aren't that prevalent. It's impressive to watch them apply the finish. The first coat is cut with MEK, and it primarily locks the wraps. Then one coat of fi
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Michael, I appreciate your input on the guide issue, and will take it to heart. But I'm not clear on your number of strippers. Are you recommending three strippers? Again, this is a rod for Bonefish, not tuna.
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I'm getting ready to build an 9' 8 wt fly rod for bonefish, and I want to use REC snake guides. I'm not sure if I should use the light saltwater or the heavy duty saltwater guides for the rod. I also would like opinions on strippers. I've never built an 8wt. Do I need two strippers? I was considering the Fuji SIC guidde, but could use the RECoil stripper. I welcome your opinions.
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I guess I missed the credit card option at the booths where I sent my time & money. I do know that at least one booth was not set up to take the cards, though. I guess I leaped to a conclusion because I didn't actually see anyone use a card, or see a sign that they were accepted. Tom's right about managing vendor numbers to try and keep the event a win-win for all. Complimentary opportuni
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Hey, Mike: Since you're retired, why don't you just order one of every guide made and gather the info and post it on your new website for us working guys. Thanks in advance.
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Hey, this post is a little late, but adds my thoughts on next year's show. I read Tom's post about the growth rate slowing and his reluctance to add another retail vendor. I can understand that. However, The addition this year of Woodcraft was a great benefit, and I believe those foks were very pleased with their results. It seems that what made them a good addition was they weren't competing wit
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My thanks to Mark & Colleen at @#$%& for the tools to help with my rodbuilding classes. I think it is great to have the supprt of one of the sponsors of this site when it comes to promoting rodbuilding. You can be sure I will be letting all my students know about @#$%&!
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Cutting the end off won't damage the blank structurally , but it seems like it will change the action
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Have I missed the boat on advance tickets? Is it too late, or do I need to get there at 6:00 AM Saturday?
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I am looking at the PSI catalog and I don't see a Pinnacele chuck. I see several Barracudas and a 4 jaw mini chuck. Can you clarify?
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I think my point got lost in the middle of my post. It was not an indictment of Flex Coat or a testimonial for Threadmaster as much as it was an admonishment to anyone that for whatever reason has applied a coat of finish and gotten less than perfect results. My recommendation, and my point in the post was that you might just as well peel it off and start over as deliver a rod that is destined to
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I read the thread about a problem with Flex Coat not setting up after 13 hours, and read a few of the comments about recoating it, making sure it's mixed well, how cold is it, etc. This is what I learned the hard way about this problem: I built a 7' SCIV crankbait rod for a friend, who fishes hard and frequently. The first coat of FC did not set right, but I intended to apply a second coat anywa
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Pete, Tom, I forgot to include that I put the table on four casters, but they are the kind that lock, so there is no movement. And if you've ever lifted a school science table, you will know that it is perfect for deadening vibration.
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Pete, I found the perfect table for my PSI mini lathe. It is an old school science table I found in a Habitat for Humanity second hand store. I paid $20 for it, stripped, sanded and painted it. It is just the right length for my PSI with the extension bed, and it's strong enough to support the work load. It even has two "drawers" for tools and such. Look around for one. You can still
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Mudhole carries a line of adjustable spinning seats, that slip over the cork handle. But they are very big. I used one on a cork tape handled surf rod, and it works really well. I don't know, but it might be worth asking them if a smaller version isa available.
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I don't know why anyone would create a situation that in the event of a failure would cause them to question whether or not the problem was a bad mix ratio. For the cost of a few measuring spoons (I use plastic), you can easily eliminate the worry of correct ratios. I always measure my Rod bond. It is so easy to work with. It is just like measuring a half teaspoon or teaspoon of shortening. Then
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Fly rod? or spin/cast setup? There are lots of options using burl cork in red or brown, (which I think looks black). You can use red foam accent rings in the grip. You can use a red acrylic or wood laminate like Dymondwood (Hut Products). As for wraps, on a fly rod I like the translucent look of a close matching red thread with no CP.
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