I have the PSI. I got mine at a good price as well. I say go for it.Then, you'll spend $65 - $250 for a chuck, $50 - $100 on lathe tools, $80- $100 on a grinder and another $120 for a Wolverine Sharpening system, $35 on a Jacobs chuck, and $75 on mandrels. Then, when you are properly equipped, order your assorted stabilized wood, acrylic blanks, and cork rings, sandpaper in grits from 60- at leas
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Mike, I teach a class on building your own fly rod in three evenings over a three week period, with some homework. You can find me in the rodbuilders directory in NC. Email me and I will be glad to share what my class syllabus looks like.
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I've tried white wraps several times, and find that unless you are wrapping on a very light color blank, you will get bleed through or at least darkening of the thread. In addition, even with using NCP, when you apply finish, I don't care who's brand, you will get a yellowing, even though it may be slight, of the wraps. Best luck I've had is white on white, with a colored trim band or inlay.
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Billy, hiting the ceilng is a hazard most of us have probably experienced. However, my real problem is that I have a ceiling fan in my shop. Whacking the ceiling is one thing, shoving the forst 8 inches of the rod into the fan is quite another. It's not "whack," it's "Whack, whack, whack, whack........."
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I have never had any trouble with Threadmaster, and I don't get why I would want to switch to lite. I have experienced the tackiness issue with FlexCoat before, but I am sure it was something I did wrong. I also don't like the ideda of putting a second coat over the tacky coat, because I am not sure that the first coat willever cure, and the softness can weaken the wrap/guide system. I would feel
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I enjoyed seeing the pictures of the expo again. I was curious about two things; from what country does this site originate?, and the last line of the article, "See you in 2009."
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Those things have foot pegs???? I thought you used a paddle to get it up the creek. It was good seeing you again, Buzz.
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Tony, those jigs were designed to fit a nickel in that bottom well. When you're done cutting, use anything like a nail, or a small screwdriver, or even one of the disposable brushes used for applying finish to push the rings out. If you desire even thinner rings, put the nickel in, place a large washer in the well on top of the nickel, and put the cork ring in. The slices get even thinner. Remove
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Anyone know who won the kayak? I haven't gotten a call, so I guess it wasn't me.
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Hello to you as well, Billy! I am still impressed that you remember my name from a year ago. For anyone that hasn't experienced Billy's incredible memory, he is a master at remembering names. Always a pleasure to see you at the show, Billy. I'm glad the weather didn't deter you from attending. AS usual the NERBS stuff was awesome.
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Tom, from my point ovf view, your expo is incredibly undervalued. I don't know about others, but I suspect they would agree. If you raised admission to $10 or $12 a day, it wouldn't deter me. Think about it, you have guys spending several hundred dollars just to get to High Point. I doubt another $2-$4 will deter them from coming. We were paying $14 a day when it was at the Charlotte Convention C
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I kind of thought 150 was a stretch. I built a 9' surf rod, and it won't travel that far.This guy was going to find me a picture of the ones he'd seen. I figured that if he ends up actually ordering one at all, I'd tell him I wouldn't guarantee performance with that kind of construction. I get the idea this guy can't really distinguish between 150 and 75 yards. Anyway, by the time I get this pric
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At least, i think it is odd. I'm hoping someone out there has built one, or maybe even seen one. I have been asked to build a short surf spinner, most likely used for stripers, 7 1/2 to 8 feet long, one piece, with just three guides. The first guide, according to the client's description, sounds like a size 70, stainless steel guide. The second is smaller, but same type, and the third is a cera
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I wanted to add my two cents on this thread, but it was such a long one, I decided to start a new thread. I have been teaching a "Build Your Own Fly Rod" class at a local Orvis shop. I can't handle any more than four at a time, but with four it is quite profitable. Students pay me a class fee and purchase a "kit" that I create based on their desires. I qoute three different pr
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Volume 10, Issue 5 (The newest one)
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Volume 10, Issue 5 (The newest one)
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J P Timberlake makes some really nice ones, and I know he sells them. You can probably reach him on this board, or maybe he's listed in the directory. Do a search for him, and check out his work in Rodmaker V 10 Number 4.
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Greg, here's how I replace a broken or spinning reel seat: I cut the seat and rear grip off right at the beginning of the foregrip. I mean right through the blank. Then I turn a new handle and glue it and the new reel seat to a section of equal sized blank, with enough left in front of the seat to slip inside and glue to the fishing rod with Rod Bond. Snug it right up to the foregrip and you can'
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Here's my two cents.....I have had to rewrap a rod that I delivered that had a coat of finish on the guides that never hardened, even though I put a coat on top that did harden. Under constant use, the guides all became loose. My soultion: I have switched to Threadmaster, I warm the two parts up for 5-10 minutes in hot water, mix exactly 1 dram of each minimum, stir three minutes (with a timer) p
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Hey, Tom, if you don't get a hit from Colorado, I lived there 20 years, and learned to build there. I'll be happy to ship....
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Every year I mis that event by 5-6 weeks. I show up the Friday after Thanksgiving, while visiting my wife's father in Apopka. Fortunately, I have found some good deals left over from the open house. I hope the folks at MudHole saved a few deals again this year! I'll be there when they open on that Friday.
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I'm getting ready to use 521 on a ST. Croix Canteen Green fly blank. My plan was to go without CP. I was hoping for a translucent color that blended with the blank color. Do you think it would work?
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I faced this issue a short time ago, because I had two rods that needed the reel seat replaced. When I posed the question, many solutions were offered. The one I went with, which worked great, was to just cut the seat and rear grip right off, blank & all. Then build a new grip and seat assembly on an extension that fit inside the exposed blank, and glue it back with Rod Bond. That far back in
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I actually had my brother (a woodworker) build me one of these clamps. Here's something I do with the clamp; besides using it for cork (which I drill out with forstner bits) I also use it to drill out 5" pieces of acrylic blanks that I then glue on a mandrel to turn reel seats. The clamp keeps the acrylic from turning, and I can get a straight hole by marking the center of each end, and dril
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Jay, the purple wraps look good with the blank. I have a purple and a pink blank that I am building for two of my grandaughters. What is the name/number of the purple thread you used? I like the contrast. I have turned a white pearl acrylic reel seat for one of the rods, and have ordered some purple acrylic to turn for the other one.
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Chris, are you glueing cork rings together and turning the handle yourself, or are you buying preformed cork grips? I use one of two tools for the rings, before I glue them. I either drill them out with a forstner bit, which does a good job of staying true to size, or I use one of the reamers available from a lot of the sponsors of this site. If I have a lot of material to remove, I use the bit
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I hope Roger either brings plenty, or makes sure his distributors have plenty of the FC full-length arbors. ! haven't found anything that I like as much. Now that they come in so many sizes, they are great to keep around for new builds or repairs.
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Rob, you emailed me, and I tried to reply, but your server kicked it back. If you'll send me a phone number, I'll call you.
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Lots of great ideas here, guys. Thank you all. I believe I can make use of several of these ideas.
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I've got three rod repairs that have come in, and they all will require removing and replacing the reel seats. I haven't had to do this before now. I would appreciate hearing some suggestions from those with experience in this area. Two of them have broken seats, and I would like to remove the rear grip and the seat, and replace them both from the back of the rod. The third has had the rear gri
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