Prokote is a lighter finish but you get much better results so I say Prokote all the way.
Forum: rodboard

I have used all of the epoxy's and I have found that Flex Coat yellows the most right from the start and gets even worse with time,Tried Master tends to be clear but it also tend's to crack at the guide feet with age I have found Prokote to be the clearest epoxy out there and the best epoxy there is but it sometime gets a bad rap as some people think that it takes a long time to dry well Prokote
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Yes permagloss thats what has been used before all this other stuff and its still good very good
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I have seen this happen quit a few times so much that I ditched Flex Coat to Pro Kote some time ago and I have not had one problem
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Bill Stevens Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Glenn I would be interested to know a couple of > things - 1. what size and type of thread and 2. > what brand, style and size of micro guide you are > using when you employ this method. I use size 2 and 4 micro guides and size A thread one all on all my micro guides
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Yes Russ I think you got the concept down it is just like you said as it is mostly a backwards Forhan’s locking wrap just do the bumper wrap and the locking wrap before you wrap the foot of the guide. Glenn McMurrian
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Okay Glenn, I'm real dumb so I want to make sure I > understand your concept. Basically it sounds like > you are wrapping the guides backwards compared to > normal. You are doing a blocking wrap first, then > the Forhan locking wraps, then the nromal guide > wrap, all the while wrapping from
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David Dosser Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you just wrapping around the guide 3 times or > are you wrapping around the guide and the rod each > time? I understand that you are starting from in > front of the guide and working backwards so to > speak. I am just confused as to whether you are > just making wraps around the guide only
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I use size 2 and 4 guides and size A thread one all on all my micro guides
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I wrap around the guide neck 3 or 4 times then wrap around the foot of the guide to secure it down then remove your thumb from the guide once this is done
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I use size 2 and 4 guides and size A thread one all on all my micro guides
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I have also done it that way before but the problem was the those guides would simple fly out from under the wrap unless it was tied down real good but with the thread wrapped around the neck of the guide and then wrapped around the foot or arm of the guide there is no place for that micro guide to go and that mean no lost guides.
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It's still easy to move the guides once this id done
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I have also done it that way before but the problem was the those guides would simple fly out from under the wrap unless it was tied down real good but with the thread wrapped around the neck of the guide and then wrapped around the foot or arm of the guide there is no place for that micro guide to go and that mean no lost guides.
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yes you can align the guide once this is done
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I have found a better way to wrap those pesky Micro Guides I find it much better then the Forhan's Locking Wrap that we all have come to use. First I have started wrapping above where the eye of the guide will go this is called a bumper wrap here I will make about three of four wraps. Now make three turns around the neck of the guide where the guide bends up to lock it down just like you would i
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You can add some weight to the rod but I don't think you will ever be able to balance a 9 ft rod unless it is already real light and there is a time when to much weight my be need to balance a 9 ft rod as it might get to heavy to even use and that is not to good.
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I have been doing this for over 30 years and there are few names for this one is called a double wrap and the other is called a triple wrap but both are the same thing and I will explain the two. number one is the single wrap it is how most bass and fly rods are wrapped today as they are simply wrapped with one single thread and no under wrap like you will see on most river rods The second w
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Steven if the thread aged I would do like Tom says pull off one or two layers of the tread untill you are back to a good color and test it for breakage and if it does not break you are good to go and for the other thread with the wooden spool that is Holland thread very good stuff and much wanted and you can tell the difference as Holland had a very distint darker clasic look to it over Gudebrod
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How do you take off Perma gloss as I need to remove a few eye’s from a rod yet from my experience Perma gloss is not the easiest thing to get off a blank as I need a clean blank not a mess half left on the blank as Perma gloss does not peel off to well.
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What’s the best way to correctly anchor down your decretive WRAP on the end without leaving gaps showing. Example it’s called a BUTT Wrap that anchors the two end of the decretive Wrap and it sometimes leaves gaps between thread. I hope this makes it more clear any help or know how would be great thanks all.
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Thanks that was it I will update you with what I find as this is great stuff much better then anything out there today
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I have a question for you guys and I am hoping that somebody might have some information on it since some of you have been building rods for so long so if anyone could help I would be grateful to you all. Back in 1992 or more or less I used a color preserver not sure the brand or company but it was in a glass brown root beer jar with a screw off lid and brush that was attached to the bottom of t
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Always use CP on my NCP and never a problem or different look
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At Lamiglas and Loomis that use automotive paint on there unfinished blanks then put them in a large oven and heat treat the painted blank that should tell you how durable a graphite blank is so sanding the blank should not be a problem just do a soft job then finish it with a scotch pad and re-paint it with automotive paint but this customer is asking allot.
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