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Current Page: 9 of 12
Results 241 - 270 of 355
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I am want to build a telescopic filpping rod not a 8 foot full section rod.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
OH boy it seems like I am in the odd as it seems like everybody but me want to use a rod building kit.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Sorry to disappoint you Doug but I started in the low 1980‘s like you and I took a break after Clemmons died and rod building kind of took turn of interest for me. I just started back up into rod building in about 2004 but in all my years I have never built a flipping rod and I lived on the Calif Delta most of those years until about 2008. I just want to learn how to build a flipping stick pie
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Anybody can do that as this is just red nylon that has been modified with a black marker simply take a fine tip black marker and put lines on the thread horizonal wise and wrap.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I want to build a flipping stick but I do not want to go the rod building kit way does anyone know how this is done or know where I can find any info on making one.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I think both Tom and Phil are right because just like what Tom says this could just be a natural result of the area near the foot and tunnel as I see the color rust doing this a lot with CP or without it and if the guide feet are black you will notice this look even more. Phil is also right when he says that this may be caused by the thread not being packed tight enough as more epoxy will soak th
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I used to use Pro Coat allot and when I did I would let it turn for 8 to 10 hours before even thinking about taking it out of the drying motor as even after 8 hours it my still be a bit tacky depending on your weather and temp at the time. For the most part I would just let Pro Coat dry a good 12 to 16 hours before even putting on my second coat of epoxy as Pro Coat takes time to get a good fini
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I forgot to say to take the Permagloss out of the fridge and let it warm up a bit so you my want to take it out of the fridge about a hour or two before using it just do not open it up until ready to use it as like must of use have found out Permagloss dry fast but if you just use it and close the cap and put it back in the ridge you should have no problem.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
In order to stop that from happening the next time that you open a bottle of Permagloss just use it and once you are finished with it just close the bottle with the cap and then put the Permagloss in the fridge for storing until the next time you need it and it will be as good as new.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I am talking about using refrigeration after the Permagloss has been opened up as I to have lots of Permagloss at least 5 bottles that have not been opened up that are still good but once Permagloss is opened it will dry out very fast but if it is put in the fridge after it is used it will last for everever or so.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Well it does work Randolph and that is all I care about and as for who told me about this concept I was told about it from a Permagloss distributor as up a the lamiglass rod building show the I go too so try it it realty works well my permagloss is doing on a year or my and still works.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I do not think that you can salvage Permagloss once it have hardened up but what I do is store my Permagloss in the fridge and the moisture will keep it from setting up and this is what works for me but when it comes time to use the Permagloss I like to let it sit out to warm up to room temp as it will setup better when warm.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Hum....When it comes to building my casting rods I like my guide tip up but when it comes to building my spinning rod I like to place my tip top facing down. LoL
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
For the most part you can do like Roger lays things out above but if the reel seat is mettle you can just cut off the fore grip on top and just heat up the reel seat and the epoxy will simply melt and loosen up so that you can just move it up of down on the blank but it will take much heat.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I have the Custom Power Wraper by Anglers workshop and I am not sure that I would ever bye it again as the Renzetti would be a better choice.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Please layout the reason why you need to coat the entire blank as you cannot just coat the blank with epoxy there is more to it then just using plain old epoxy like Flex Coat or a Standard epoxy. As for it effecting the rod action it will not effect the action all that much so it may be a disappointment if you are expecting to give your rod a better action or a stronger action.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I like a 24 to 28 RPM Motor as I have found that the higher speed let' me work faster and I get a much better results this way and you can get them on that big @#$%& site. 110 Volt for USA or 220 Volt for oversees
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Try using a bit of heat I like to flame my epoxy while it is turning on the drying motor and what will happen is the epoxy will start to thin it my even drip but its not a problem as you can alway wipe off the runny part if needed but most often the epoxy will level by its self once thinned out with the heat.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I have only used there RBBO-2 6‘6 ft blank and they are very good well worth the price.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Define better? THe paste epoxies are pretty much > the same consitancy and they are all 1000 times > stronger than we need them to be. THe only way I > can see something being better is if they were > substantially cheaper...and they are already cheap > to begin with Better in that it is ea
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Better in that it is easy to get not just avaliable to get a rod building stores and mail order outfits like Mudhole.com and it does not need to be super XXXXX strong just a good XXX strong enough not to put Rod Bond down have been using it for years but in terms of over kill I think Rod Bond fits the job well. It will be used for fitting reel seats and handles together and also butt caps and
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Does anybody know of a better paste type of glue other then Rod Bond or Pro Paste for glueing together reel seats and handles together.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Phil Erickson makes a good point about the rod needing to be level before you start to put the epoxy on your rod to get a good level finish to the rod as if you do this your result will be much better at the end. What I do is first level my rod making sure that my rod dryer is level with the rod with no wobble too it at all. I will then give my tried wrap a good amount of TM Lite Epoxy and once
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Phil Erickson makes a good point about the rod needing to be level before you start to put the epoxy on your rod to get a good level finish to the wrap as if you do this your result will be much better at the end. What I do is first level my rod making sure that my rod dryer is level with the rod with no wobble too it at all. I will then give my tried wrap a good amount of TM Lite Epoxy and onc
Forum: rodboard
11 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
I use both Rod-Bond and Pro-Paste on all my handles and my Reel Seats as I think it give a much stronger and longer lasting bond not found in the flex-Coat rod building epoxy glue. All my Customer repairs done do to lose real seat were those that where put together with Epoxy Rod Builders Glue but I have never had even one reel seat that was done with Rod-Bond or Pro-Paste ever come in for repair
Forum: rodboard
11 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
What I was trying to say is if you have ever seen the process of how a blank is made first hand they first wrap the graphite around a mandrel no epoxy involved then press it with a machine to form the blank,They then put cellophane around the new formed blank to hold it together. In the next step what they will do it put the blank or blanks into a large kiln or oven to dry and form. Some blank in
Forum: rodboard
11 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
OOOOOP's Sorry for the double post's
Forum: rodboard
11 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
To make a blank graphite is wrapped or rolled around the mandrel (linear fibers running lengthwise, with resins on the outside), cellophane is wrapped around the graphite to hold it together while it bakes. Cellophane won't melt, that's why they use it. The graphite covered mandrel is then placed in an oven and baked at closely monitored temperatures for an exact amount of time. As the rod blank
Forum: rodboard
11 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
To make a blank graphite is wrapped or rolled around the mandrel (linear fibers running lengthwise, with resins on the outside), cellophane is wrapped around the graphite to hold it together while it bakes. Cellophane won't melt, that's why they use it. The graphite covered mandrel is then placed in an oven and baked at closely monitored temperatures for an exact amount of time. As the rod blank
Forum: rodboard
11 years ago
Glenn McMurrian
Yes I agree with Bill on the use of heat I have been using heat for years and I have been using a alcohol torch to take off rod bond for some time as you just need to heat it up and the rod bond will simple crumble off the rod but in your case just heat it up and wipe it off will do just fine.
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 9 of 12

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