I would go with at least a Med Action Bass blank or Med/Hvy action as we used to catch 30lb Halibut on the Med/Hvy action bass casting rods in the Ocean all the time with 20lb Firewire line and for the Strippers a 6ft Med action graphite rod was my favorite rod for Strippers in the 14lb to 40lb class in the Calif Delta with 14lb Mono line not sure about a spinning rod setup.
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I have made lots of builds but I have never used snakeskin so is CP needed on snakeskin before using epoxy or Spar Vanish as I my use Spar Vanish in place of epoxy so this is a question for those that have used both Epoxy and Spar Varnish to do this.
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Thanks Larry that really helps as that is almost straight to the point of what I was trying to find out in the long term.
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Bill what brand of spar vanish do you use I want a good shine’also I am looking for a tuff spar that will hold the trim rings together for years to come.
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I also forgot to say that I am looking for a tuff spar that will hold the trim rings together for years to come
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Bill what brand of spar vanish do you use I want a good shine
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Have any of you Bamboo fly rod builders ever tried putting a Epoxy like Thread Master over Spar Vanish if so how good does it work and does it tend to separate from each other after time.
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I have see others talking about storing Permagloss in the refriderator but does it need to be warmed up to room temp before it can be used or will it work right out od the fridge temp without any problem.
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I use PermaGloss all the time but I have never used it with a heat box as my drying box gets to a temp of about 180 to 200 degree's but if you read the PermaGloss bottle is say not to use with flame or heat so it make it sound as if a heated drying box my not be the thing to use has anybody ever tried doing this before if so how where your results.
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Do a wet sanding with 150 # Grit at first just to do the leveling out and from there go to a lighter grit # to finish it off and do a cleaning with water and dry it and one or two coats of finish on top.
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I would level your the blank with a level while it is on the dryer not turning and then put a new coat only over the low spots and build it up to where it is at most level and from there sand it down while it is spinning while in the wrapper until it is nice and level. After all it done you can simply clean it off with water real good and put an new coat of finish over the wrap and let it dry l
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I have had this same thing happen to me also with FlexCoat but for me it was with the heavy build and it got hot and dried super fast but that was in Calif so I think the weather my have something to do with it as I now live in Oregon much cooler and I never see this anymore.
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9850 Blue steel is your best bet I use it all the time
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I should be fine as long as it is still mixable and not hard.
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Like Tom say''s PG is the ideal thing to put over wooden grips but PG is very hot and will blister most epox'sy like Flex Coat and TM so like Tom say's you must first remove any epoxy before using PG and never put PG over any dried epoxy at all,NEVER!
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Are you talking about the Bubble Buster in the spray bottle or the Bubble Buster that one uses to flame the epoxy as there are two different products
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Stay with Epoxy as with today's Epoxy's like Pro Kote the finish with dry just as good and with Permagloss you almost always need to be out side as the smell is so strong and unless you want to get High! and with Permagloss you almost need a Jack Hammer to do repairs it is so hard.
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ProKote is a little bit different then some oth the other epoxy's like flexcoat as it take longer to dry up to at leat 24 hr's but even more is better as 24hr's is a must and it stays soft to longer then most other's but the wait is worth it so do not get in a hurry to recoat.
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Well Both are right in some ways a Shimano bought Loomis though still based and made in Woodland Washington and the Mandrels for the rods are made in the USA but guess where the Graphite sheeting is made can I say ! China so both are right is some ways.
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Like Andrew say you can wrap more then just one thread at a time like 4 per pass I like to do from 4 to 6 at a time but 4 threads per pass does seam to work best for most things as you can work longer without getting them all bunched up and twisted. Learning to wrap more then just 1 thread at a time is a great thing to learn and it saves a whole lot of time if you are doing closed butt wraps but
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looks like it is just anouther hand wrapper to me as just about all hand wrapper are about the same as they are all in the full controll of the person eye and hand and as wrappers go you can get a better wrapper other then this one at mudhole.com.
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Not sure how the Renzetti lathe is made but on my CPW Custom Power wrapper I just twist my belt around like in a figure eight and it will go in reverse no problem.
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mark crouse Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Glenn > there is a difference like night and day, I have > my CPW since 12 years and it is wonderful tool. > Best Regards Mark Crouse- The Munich Rod Man thanks just what I needed to know Roger
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For those of you that have a Custom Power wrapper by anglers workshop what do you like about it over the PacBay Deluxe version and is it really that much better and worth the extra money or should I stick with just getting a PacBay with the Alps chuck as I am looking at both but I want to get some good opinions first.
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Thanks Tom
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Thread Wraps,EVA,Hypalon shaping,Thread Work which needs centering and epoxy or what ever else comes along or even cutting blanks......It is the self centering 3 footed chuck not the one that uses screws to connect to the blank.
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For those of you that have the Custom power wrapper by Anglers Workshop what is a better deal the self centering chuck on there more advanced wrapper or a Alp chuck added on to there lower end power wrapper.
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For those of you that have the Custom power wrapper by Anglers Workshop what is a better deal the self centering chuck on there more advanced wrapper or a Alp chuck added on to there lower end power wrapper.
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When PermaGloss makes contact with the air there is a reaction as PermaGloss gets very hot and if you apply it over Epoxy it will melt the epoxy and make a mess of the rod so just don't put it over epoxy of any kind at all! and wear gloves as once PermaGloss is dry there is no getting it off of your hands but if used right its the best thing to use for salt water rods not heavy at all simply wip
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To coat the whole rod or blank one does not need a power wrapper or dryer simply do this and be sure to use glove whole working with Permagloss...1. put a eye on the tip of the blank and hang the bank...2. get a coffee filter and put small amount of PM onto it and simply wipe the blank from tip to butt with a lite coat of PM and let it hang and dry this is how it done at Anglers Workshop in Washi
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