Do yourself a favor - get the flex coat video - follow their tip top advice - your tip top glue problems will be solved. Smart way to use their tip top glue sticks.
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George, - you mentioned "I know that his right hand is not very strong, due to numerous surgeries." - if he cranks left, a spiral wrap will ease the wear on his right hand when he is catching fish - use it - he will be grateful. Go to my web site and print out the advantages of the Revolver style - discuss them with your client and incorporate those elements he wants. If you're not s
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George, 2 1/2 inches (5 rings - 4 cork, 1 rubberized cork) has stood the test of time. Make it shorter or longer if your client so requests. Here's something to try - take the intended blank - slide the reel seat into position - now take some white modeling foam and form the split grip on the blank - keep re-doing both grips until they feel perfect - then do it in cork. 2 1/2 + 3 1 /2 open + 2
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Lance - as to your question "so the question is, whats up with all the lure-specific rods? . i think if i had to take one rod for every lure in my tackle box id give up fishing. " I'm with you - I have more bass lures than I can carry in my boats - and a rod for every lure would be - well - too many. However, it's not lures we should be building bass rods for - but techniques. The
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Ray Cover - all well said. Especially, "Creating art is risky because you are stepping out into new and original directions others (including the potential customer) may not be willing or able to go. " Exactly! Time and loss of vision (too many high G turns in the F-4) may be taking away my capacity to build - but what I've already done represents who I am, and has a good chanc
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Rich - get the RodMaker issues that have the no fore-grip and split grip articles. They will give you enough info. Basically on a no fore-grip, thread and thread epoxy is enough.
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Tim, even if you use less epoxy - capillary action will take the epoxy up the back side. Use a thin metal spatula and keep wiping away the excess ( about every 10 minutes ) until there is no longer any build up ( usually no longer than 1 hour).
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tolan - "It appears that the split grip is used more for form than function." - not true. Split grips are on Bass rods because I put them there - then wrote about why in a book, article, and many posts on the web. I put the split grip on Bass rods for FUNCTION only. They enhance two-handed casting from all angles plus sensitivity (lighter weight). The entire development of my Revo
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Ted nailed it - both posts. The rest of the story is in my book "Powerhand Baitcasting" and article in RodMaker on split grips. Form follows function - bass rod manufacturers follow ideas laid down by those that actually bass fish at a high enough level to understand "function" and the custom rod building knowledge to affect "form".
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Tim - match the blank to the technique. Match the quality of the reel to your wallet. The best baitcasting reels (along with an educated thumb) will have more impact on casting distance than the best blanks (and any guide set up you may select). The danger you face is trying to select the best blank for a weight (say 3/8 oz.) the difference between 3/8 oz lures (cranks, jigs/worms, spoons, blad
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Chris - keep clearing that spot until it quits filling - usually 40-50 minutes + or - . I wipe back there with a steel spatula every 10 minutes while I'm working on wrapping or handles on other rods.
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Why? Credit Rodmaker Mag. article. A good idea will be used by those that see its potential. Form follows function. The split grip - along with many other ideas in Rodmaker - made all previous Bass rods obsolete - not a bad position for custom builders to be in. Factory rods have had to copy - or be left behind. They seem to be doing quite well with their copies (they subscribe!) - I've actual
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Rick - I've been down this road a long time ago. Here's what you can try - it will work both ways. Build a 12.5 inch cork TN grip, one inch diameter, rubberized butt. Use 2 pieces of 3/4 inch strapping tape, cut 3 1/4 inches long to secure the reel - back one day - up the next - eventually you'll decide what location works best for you and those Clear Lake bruisers.
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ATC blanks - so far, so good. I have about 10 more to build and test to see how they compare to the old Shikari equivalents. Several of the old Shikari blanks were amoung the best I ever tested for certain techniques.
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marc, listen to Aaron. On HARD used Bass rods - only the spiral wrap will stop the breakage from tip torque. Build eyes up if they want - but no warranty - warranty only on the spiral wrap - they will get the idea, I am one of these die hard bass anglers (hard on equipment ) and have built for and advised the best. Best course of action is to know what you're doing and cut them no slack - high
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ICRB, this web site, RODMAKER mag. - for me, TR said it best, and his words apply to Tom's efforts in all three - "the Man in the Arena" 'It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face in marred by dust and sweat and
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V6 #6 p18
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Aaron, Mike P. has it right. If you're using the locking wrap for the tip guide - use the 3 locking wraps and add just one blocking wrap - if you have room - if not - do without the blocking wrap at the end.
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For those that subscribe to RodMaker - read my article on this subject - for those that don't subscribe, listen to Buddy. However, if a client insists on a balanced rod - do it. I mean use the Do-It mold I designed (RBW-6-112). It will make weights for balancing that fit exactly in the butt of the rod and make the process simple.
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Alex - sorry I didn't make the show. I have what you're looking for written down - just not in article form yet. Tom has been very patient with me getting the articles finished. I'm going to be introducing sliding scales in the articles that will cover every element of a custom bass rod. The best rod for a particular technique will vary depending on the angler's skill level and desires. From Tou
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Les - attend the expo - make my seminar on technique specific bass rods - by a show of hands I'll be going over some until time runs out. If I don't get to the float and fly - stop by the Rodmaker booth - I'll be there on the even hours. I've been doing what you're interested in for some time - in competition - 8ft rod (max allowed), slip bobber & fly, down to ANY depth you have the patience
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Emory, I hope you have plenty of crows caged out back. Just get a few out and start eating before Billy V. starts explaining to you the weight difference between a rod blank and a completed rod.
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Tony, Ref. your list - Senko - DHX703 is at the top - there are a few others as good, but none I've fished so far that are better. I have fished Gr. USA blanks in all the other catagories you listed - one recommendation out of 15 isn't bad - is it? Articles are in progress on all you've listed - plus, the Float and Fly, Carolina rig, Deep spoons, Swim Jig, Big and small structure Jigs (20 tota
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Dave, I've sent you an email. If you got it - you know your options. If you didn't get it - and you still have some questions - I've been down this Spiral road a few times - since your running out of time - give me a call. Check my web site revolverrod.com for more insight into the Revolver style of bass rods - and my phone number to shorten your learning curve. I've been working on 14 bass t
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Bill. You wanted some advice - here goes - forget the flippin' blanks for swim baits - on the small trebles you'll just tear out the hooks. A good choice for swim baits up to 1 1/2 oz. would be ATC's IMB 805 - cut to any length that will fit your rod locker. For 1-4 oz. try ATC's BB804 - when in doubt on the handle length - go longer. A 12 inch all day with big baits and big fish will beat you do
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Nathan. Consider Billy's suggestion - get the back issue - it will answer a lot of your questions. For what you have in mind - I would suggest a split grip (SSG-TN) , 12 1/2 or 13 inch, cork with poker chips as per the article.
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Rich, follow what Joe said. In addition, you can use any and all ideas I published in RodMaker, plus you can advertise that you build in the "Revolver style" - it's OK . My Revolver Rod (a trademarked name) - is a no-foregrip, split grip, modified reel seat, spiral wrap, baitcasting rod. The name (Revolver Rod) is mine - the ideas I have been pushing for some time - I think a few compa
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Chuck - nice work . The only things I would add would be a Z-bend hook keeper between the grips (left side) and use of my locking wrap on all single foot guides and the hook keeper. I also use St. Croix's decal between the grips - as you will be doing. St. Croix's series IV - built in the manner you have - is as good as it gets.
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Craig, Thanks for the praise - next year will be a real challenge for me to live up to this one. Rich
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Thanks for the kind comments. It will be a challenge next year in Charlotte - living up to expectations.
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