Tony - is this hard request intended for the doodle slide or the doodle drag? Either way - I would look hard at the St. Croix series 4 - ML, 6 1/2 ft cut down to 6' 2" or 6' 3". The slide is a cast followed by shakin' and slide. (spinning is best) The drag is a forward drop (usually deep) - followed by shakin' and drag - pull - free spool to bottom and repeat. (baitcasting is best).
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Eric - I agree with Bob McKamey and Scott Sheets, with one addition. When you're trying to pick the appropriate blank - you need to consider the skill level of the intended angler - the difference between a beginner and a touring pro is HUGE! When it comes to cranking - many touring pros go glass - few beginners like those blanks. Beginners love graphite popping rods for cranking. There is a lar
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Steven - the stubby little rear grips are a mistake on a good idea. The rear grip should fit comfortably in your left hand for effective two handed casting - that's it - the rest is just bonus. Just take some modeling clay in your left hand and keep squeezing and reshaping until it feels perfect - then do it again - only on a rod blank - now match your results in cork or foam with a rub. cork but
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Alex, good luck - that 13 inch handle on that rod is going to beat you down - next time start at 15 1/2 and tuck. You'll learn over time where to position your hands. NEVER add weight to a tight line moving lure rod - period. It functions in the shop only - never on the water. Listen to Duane R. In the meantime - the only thing that may help you with that rod as built and the lures you have in
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I'm with Robert. This will be a good topic for the Big Show - I intend to cover it in 'Innovative rod components' and (with humor I hope) - drive balance into a corner - one - last - time.
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Scotty - if you would like my reasons why - Volume 5 Issue 3 is the place to find the article. If you just want the numbers - listen to Spencer. For those of you that have that issue - consider reading it again - the article has not changed - but you have - like an old movie - you will read things you never remembered as being there.
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Tom - to be safe - stay in the Loomis line - just drop down in modulas. Order a 722 in GL3 and GL2 - see which becomes your favorite for what techniques. The GL2 will actually make a better Rapala rod than the IMX - I'll explain exactly why at the big show.
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I'm with Steve - Vol. 5 #3 will back up what he says. All of my rods will easily outcast effective fishing distances. Read the article - then use your own judgement and numbers. as Steve has. I'm always changing reels and lines - just as Steve implies.
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John - I've been using American Fishing Wire for some time - stainless steel - Brown (I don't like silver hook keepers) 240 lb test - #15 - .034 diameter. Comes in a 30 ft section. I hand bend 2 styles - Z bend or drop shot.
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For those thinking of trying the Micro guides - you already have. The first guide on any baitcasting rod has already been determined for you - both distance and size - it's on the reel. Take a look at these quality Shimano baitcasting reels - Curado, Chronarch, and Castiac - the line guide on the reel is much smaller than a 6. Use your intuition plus guidance form these builders and go for it.
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sorry you missed the fastest one hour seminar on bass rod building that I can give. The Sat. 2PM seminar is on technique specific bass rods - I intend to cover all of them (20+) in one hour - blank recommendations and why, for beginners to touring pros - handles and guide set ups. Questions generated can be addressed in the RodMaker booth the last 30 minutes of each hour, except for when I'm gi
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Emory - no problem. Bobby - good point.
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Emory, I agree with you - lighter is more sensitive - which is why I did what I did with bass rods and articles in Rodmaker - no foregrips, split grips, modified reel seats, etc. Where things get cloudy is where expert builders that don't fish for bass at a high level or any level give reams of eng. info intended for bass rods - and it turns out to be completely wrong. Example - the lightest Fl
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Marc - you should be able to get the mold from any dealer that sells Do-it molds - just ask them to order it for you from the factory - if they won't - try the next dealer on your list. This sensitivity issue keeps rearing its head and clouds discussions unnecessarily. Adding to what Bill already said ( I'm sure he is going to grill me on this at the High Point show) - the best advice I eve
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Mat - since you've narrowed it down to those 2 blanks - I think the main question to be answered now is what level does the angler you're building for fish? - if the answer is close to the Pro level - the BS706S-glass has no equal at that level for tight line moving lures. If the answer is club level or below - the CB70M would be the way to go.
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Marc - you're on the right track - get the article - read it over a few times - there is more to adding weight than making a rod feel good in the shop. If you decide to add weight - the do-it mold I designed lets you do it efficiently and the rod will still have the look and form you use on your other rods.
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Marc - you're on the right track - get the article - read it over a few times - there is more to adding weight than making a rod feel good in the shop. If you decide to add weight - the do-it mold I designed lets you do it efficiently and the rod will still have the look and form you use on your other rods.
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Ron, The Seeker E-glass 706 is the best I've tested over the years. I have 25 in the shop that I'll never build on - as I've stopped building for others with my current eye problems. Give me a call if you want all of them at a good price. Check my web site for phone number - revolverrod.com
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Roger, if a customer wants a shorter rear grip because of technique and hand position - build it. However, be prepared for some comments at a later date - like - tip heavy, and wrist fatigue when catching numbers of 3lb plus Smallmouth . It comes with the territory.
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Bobby, Good point (and excellent web site). Since I had a little something to do with what custom and commercial bass rods are starting to look like - here are some numbers - I can't remember if I put them in the articles or not. For my designs: Spinning - SSG-TN handle, add 1 ounce to the blank weight for finished weight (Fuji SIC guides). Revolver - add 1.25 ounces to the blank weigh
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Bill, I would prefer a medium action - but I needed something that would handle 1-5oz and 2-8oz lures. If you can find medium action, LOW modulas graphite blanks that will handle those lure weights - go for it. We don't have a perfect answer for a swim bait rod because of the treble hooks - the rods are WAY too strong to fight the fish properly - so we don't - the only solution once you set up
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Alex, Listen to Greg. Here's some other thoughts. Build the rear grip 14.5 inches - fore-grip, whatever length the customer wants. Swimbait blanks are Salmon Back Bouncing blanks designed for 20-40 lb lines and 20-60 lb Salmon in streams - using the back bouncing technique. Blanks are usually for 1-5 oz or 2-8 oz . These powerful blanks have been renamed for the bass guys - not redesigned. Let t
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Gene, The Revolver Rod - V4 #2 Advantages of the Split Grip - V4 #4 Volume 4 individual issues are sold out but available on CD If you build Bass rods - all of these articles were intended to put some space between you and factory rods - however, as you can see in stores - they read Rodmaker The Revolver Rod by Rich Forhan - V4 #2 No-ForeGrip Casting Rods by Rich F
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Gene, The Revolver Rod - V4 #2 Advantages of the Split Grip - V4 #4 Volume 4 individual issues are sold out but available on CD If you build Bass rods - all of these articles were intended to put some space between you and factory rods - however, as you can see in stores - they read Rodmaker The Revolver Rod by Rich Forhan - V4 #2 No-ForeGrip Casting Rods by Rich F
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Tony, Easiest is ask your customer. If they know what length they want - build it. If they are looking to you for the right length for a particular technique - get the back issues on the Revolver Rod and the split grip handle. If that isn't enough info - ask again, or just show up at the ICRBE and my "building technique specific bass rods" seminar - I'll go over the numbers and whys t
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Chris - exactly. The advantage to Dee's tule dipping technique (until it was effectively banned from tournaments) was he used a banana shaped weedless jig with a saltwater hook filed to a cutting point - that he dropped INTO the cover - and dragged the bass out. It was a poor jig - Dee farmed more bass because of that jig than the rest of the field would catch. I designed the Weapon jig - not for
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"The rest of the story"- Dee's original technique was "tule dipping" - using a 14-16 ft one piece rod with a short line tied to the tip using a 5/8 oz. jig. He was winning almost everything he entered - so tournament organizers banned the long rods and asked Dee what min. length would keep him in - his answer off the top of his head was 7 1/2 ft. He was on the Fenwick team and
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Blame Dee Thomas. He knew what he was doing when he picked that first Fenwick blank. Since then, everyone is just trying to copy or improve on a good thing. It would take a full article to do justice to the path Dee laid down for the rest of us to follow. For touring pros, use Dee's guidance, for others - use whatever they will like - they all will work.
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RodMaker V9#4 - The SSG-TN Spinning Handle should help. Summary - split grip ( 6 inches long, 1 1/8 diameter for reel and big hands), use 2 poker chips as described to stop cork compression and increase sensitivity (if they touch the blank). File flat spot for reel - use 2 strips of 1 inch fiberglass reinforced strapping tape to hold the reel. (drop out the electrical tape)
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Ray - it is normal - but it is not acceptable. The epoxy bridge serves no purpose. I remove it with a narrow metal spatula - by wiping every 10 minutes as the rod turns - usually for the first hour only.
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