I see a lot of rods now using the split grip rear handles. Why are these becoming so popular? Is it just a way to saving some money on cork?
I've made a couple rods with split grips but have used a 4" rear section because I cast with 2 hands, but many rods have stuby little rear grips..

For me they are lighter, cost less, fairly easy to shape and create, and look cool to boot. I did create one offshore rod that I didn't like them on and have since stripped the rod. Everyone has their own preferences.

Everything Phil said. On the flip side, I've got customers who a split grip is the worst thing for because they use the full grip when bass fishing.

Another benefit I never thought of. Had a guy wanting a full 10" cork grip. Called and said "Make it a split grip" He installed the wave saver on his trolling motor and found a deck full of larger diameter grips didn't leave much room for thing with rods bungied down.

Of course I cautioned him about that wave saver not being a rod saver, with or without split grips!

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Steven - the stubby little rear grips are a mistake on a good idea. The rear grip should fit comfortably in your left hand for effective two handed casting - that's it - the rest is just bonus. Just take some modeling clay in your left hand and keep squeezing and reshaping until it feels perfect - then do it again - only on a rod blank - now match your results in cork or foam with a rub. cork butt. If possible - just get the article on split grips in RodMaker - Vol.4#4.

Function -

Rods are used in different manners for different purposes. Custom grips should be set up for the specific conditions of use. The materials should be comfortable, functional, durable and in some cases shaped and textured for grip security.

Some reasons for alterations of the rear grip:

Body jam for fish fighting - butt rounded and large enough to prevent excessive body penetration.

Remove all surfaces not required for weight reduction of entire rod to improve bite detection by "feel".

Pitching and flipping do not require firm full grasp of the butt section with the off hand hand and the butt may be only used as a bumper for off hand resistance for accuracy contols - kind of like a rear bump surface or backstop

Ergonometrics considering actual hand positions is extremely important - a person who changes hands normally requires a longer grip section immediately behind the reel seat. Careful observation of the anglers method of use of rods will define the size and shape of grips that match form to function.

The size and shape of a rear grip on a heavy swim bait rod for large lures and long two handed throws will have a completely different sit of design conditions than a finesse worm rod used for close in work.

Related - Rich's no foregrip concept: I got taken to task last week by some of the wade fishermen in Texas on the no-foregrip concept. I made a post on this board that a foregrip was not needed on rods - a wader sent me an email and told me that foregrips were an absolute requirement on his rods because he held the rod in his teeth when he was retying lures - there are many reasons why a firm set of rules for of buidling custom rods do not apply in all cases.

I have been seriously consideraing a spinning rod with only a 2"-3" grip behind the reel seat. I fish mostly top water and shallow running suspending plugs and rarely ever touch the butt end of the rod. If I do a split grip (and I probably will) it will be a short rear grip, maybe 6"-7" at the most including the gap. I have short arms so a long rear grip gets caught on my shirt or jacket sleeves at the wrong times.

To follow up on Bill's function comment, do not let looks overtake functional requirements. Split grips are a bad idea for boat rods in rod holders. They hang up going in and out of the holder. It's surprising how many people miss this point.

The rod should fish well with the anglers style and habits first, then look great second. For many casting methods described above, split grips do serve a purpose and open areas for more creativity as well.

Terry

I've found them to be very comfortable. With a short tapered grip right behind the reelseat, my hand rolls rearward with the heel of my palm resting on the bare blank. This allows me to hold the rod with the tip closer to the water when drift fishing for Salmon/Steelhead with the same hand position. To get the tip closer with a full grip I have to bend my wrist more forward - the split grip gives a more relaxed natural feel at least to me.

Spin seats and grips - this fisherman ordered to more with the 3 inch cork shortened to 2.0 - only needed for heel of hand support.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Bad two piece rear split grips - sure!!

Try fishing for sow speckled trout with telephone poles rigged with live pogies and stuck in rod holders! This was rigged with 80 # braid and a jack picked it up while the was fighting another fish - spooled and snapped! Don't worry he bought another full price!

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Special things for special people - sure - he loves it for pitching, palming and never switching hands! Note the concave curve which fits his hands - he was in shop and selected the exact curves and lengths - can not get that at Bass Pro!

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Like they say different strokes for different folks!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2009 01:42PM by Bill Stevens.

Last summer I built a rod for a friend of mine. The rod was built with a split grip and measured for how he held his rod. We took a trip to Rockport, Tx to do some fishing. The hotel where we stay has a private pier with rod holders installed. One night while fishing with live pogies and the rod in the holder he hooked his first fish, a two and a half lb. trout. He had a terrible time getting the rod out of the holder. The lower end kept getting stuck. He has then had me make him another rod with a full lower grip.

I am in the process of building myself a two-piece spinning rod. I will build it with a split grip. To each his own.

Thanks for all the inputs they do look cool and reduce weight.
But I agree you have to size them for the application and customer needs.
One last comment, I tried a split grip on an IM6 moderate action spin rod with poor results. I had to add a peice of rod blank into the butt section to add stiffness. I did this because when I was casting (with 2 hands) it felt like the butt was flexing in a direction opposite of the rod flex. Has anyone experienced this?

Steve-
Never thought about it before but I believe I have felt the same thing. More so with long rods casting heavier lures or a heavy Carolina rig. It stands to reason though that on the back cast that it could be felt-I think its more that the rod is flexing deeply into the blank with lure loading the tip-you holding the butt relatively stationary while "pushing" against the reel as the rod loads or as you begin forward motion to cast. I don't think there is any reason to be concerned about it-but it's probably testing your glue-up work on the seat and your grips. A recent thread mentioned wear found on foam arbors under reel seats on rods that flexed deeply into the blank . The arbors were found to be in worn condition when rod was being repaired or rebuilt as I remember.

Chris

I took the playdough concept to extreams in this split grip...
[www.rodbuilding.org]
Designed for the function I wanted to use it for and I think it happens to look really cool too. It's easily the most comfortable rod I have in this weight class. One handed casting, two handed casting, retrieve, are all smooth; I don't even think about the grips because they fit me so well. Somebody else may not find it so comfortable though and I wouldn't dare put it in a rod holder.