I use the Forhan wrap on all my single foot guides. I like the way it looks. It won't be found on over the counter rods. It only takes a few more seconds per guide. I'm building custom rods primarily for my self and family occasionally for a charity. I build primarily fly rod with an occasional spinning or casting rod.
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I would check it for silicone. All the grout sealer iused had a lot of silicone in it.
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All cans of finish usually have a disclaimer on them saying to try them on some part that cannot be seen first to see if there is a reaction with other parts of the finish.
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I built a 9' 6 wt on a diamondback blank several years ago. Excellent blank lightweight med fast action.
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Now you know why You don't do business with friends or relatives and if you do you charge them at least double. Whatever they do or don't do with those rods will be your fault for the rest of your life.
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I had no problems with flexcoat or FC Lite when I was using it. I Use TM Lite now but would switch back to FC products if TM were to become short supply. I think the TM Lite might have a little longer pot life I couldn't prove it.. I switched to TM ( to try it) because of posts on this and other forums. I really couldn't prove to myself that there was a difference. The only reason for not
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This is custom rodbuilding. If you like the way it is built and it works for you it must not be wrong.
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I would think the main reason most spin/fly combos's are 4 piece is they are used as back pack rods or other areas where you only have room to take one rod and might nedd to fish several different ways. Anytime you combine functions in fishing rods you have to make concessions in performance. A # 20 stripper is not going to affect a fly rod much if any other than the way it looks. You're build
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I used envirotech a couple years ago on a table to that I put a puzzle on. It was in the direct sun and within 2 months it had yellowed to the point you couldn't see the pzzle. Now 2 years later the top surface is crazing and lifting. I think most of the rod finishes may be the same chemical they probably have more UV inhibitors in them.
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I went to single foot ceramics years ago and will never go back. No wear on tips. Can't tell any diffeence in casting.
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If he argues have him google it. both ways it comes up the same US Marine Corps. I spent 4 years in it and never saw it with the s
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US Marine Corps
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Use the smallest size that will pass your largest knots without interference. I use #3 ceramic single foots on my 4 and 6 weights with no problem but I believe i used a #4 ceramic on my 9 weight. Snake guide are sized completely different and I don't think there is a reliable rule of thumb. Bruce
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Jon The price of the blank is no indication of the quality of the blank. I have built on St Croix, Diamondback, Talon, Batson, Tiger Eye, Winston. They have all made excellent rods. The first rod I made was a St Croix 6 Wt that sold for $30 at the time. I still use it excellent rod. My favorite is a talon 4 wt. Remember the fisherman makes the rod. If you don't know how to cast and wher
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I'm in Boise. Would be interested in something in the winter.
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Patrick I have been using ceramics for years and really like them. The weight difference is so minute I don't think you can tell the difference even after a full day of casting. My 8 wt I went 12-8 and 6's on out. If your wanting a 16 for the stripper I would just go 16-12 or 16-10 then 6's on out. You could actually go from the 16 to the 6's but it might look better with the 10 or 12for tr
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angler's workshop carries them
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Listen to Tom something was either in the thread or contaminated it prior to finish
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The manufacturer warrants the product not the seller or distributor. It is the manufaturers responsibility to warrant (either through repair or replacement) the blank.
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I don't think you'll have any problems. My basement used to get around 60 at night. I don't think that really affected the curing time that much either.
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Envirotex yellows extremely quickly in direct sun. I used it to cover a puzzle on a patio table within 6 weeks it had yellowed to the point it was difficult to see the puzzle. I would not use it as a finish on anything that will spend anytime in direct sunlight.
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I use the Forhan wrap on all my single foot guides. I've never had a guide pull loose on rods without it but it is very simple and I think adds a finished look to the guide wrap.
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I used fuji BNLG12, 10 and BLG6's to a #6 tip on a St Croix 8 wt I built several years ago for Steelhead on the lower Deschutes. Handles the wind well casts as far as I want. I really like the ceramic's. I've seen no wear on the tip. My stainless tips on some of my lighter rods are showing some wear after about the same use.
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Richard Let the paint cure for a week or so. I use cheap foam brushes cut a slit in the brush load heavily with PG. Start at top of rod with brush one stroke to the bottom rotate about a third load brush start at top repeat rotate and do again then hang blank to cure. after it has cured if you missed anyplace you can go back and spot treat. The PG is so hot that it will soften even cured
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The Rod blanks I get come packed in variousweights of pvc pipe some in plastic electric conduit. I use the PVC forrod tubes for all my rods. I prefer the 125 to 160PSI grades as it is quite a bit lighter than the schedule 40. You can get it at most plumbing supply stores. Lowe's and Home Depot may carry it also. It's fairly inexpensive $4 or $5 for a 10 ft joint.
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Dryer speed really doesn't matter. You'll find people hand turning and using motors up to 200rpm or more. I use a 6-7 rpm motor for both types. I used to hand turn and got tired of having to watch and turna 1/4 to 1/2 turn every 10 or 15 minutes for several hours. I found an old rotisserie and made a chuck for it. It is the right speed for me to apply the finish. Once applied check for bubb
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I have been using the same for more years than I can remember I just got a peice of square stock that fit the motor. I cut threads on one end and bolted a 2 in pvc cap to it and threaded three thumb screws thru the cap for a chuck and it has been working well.
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Flexcoat Epoxy brush cleaner.
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Tom is right on the money. 15 sec in a microwave is too long. I put a 2oz bottle of TM in once for 10 sec and it was so hot i thought it might melt the bottle. Any more I will put the bottles in my shirt pocket for 15 or 20 min, or in a bowl of hot water for 5 or 10 minutes. I mix up a batch using 1.5cc of each. I tilt the cup slightly and stir gently rolling the cup slowly and occasionally
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I have been using Brilliance and Flexcoat. I thin it about 50% with water and do 2 coats thinned. I put it on very heavy and once all the wraps have been coated and soaked thoroughly . I dab off the excess I don't wipe, after an hour or so I will put on a second thinned coat. again once all the wraps are soaked I will dab off the excess. after about an hour I will put on one coat full strengt
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