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Results 91 - 107 of 107
15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
I have been using Sharpies for years to darken guide feet works really well just make sure its indelible ink. I tried black paint once wasn't able to pack the thread. It kept pulling the paint with it. I went back to the sharpies.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
Angler's Workshop has a Gudebrod Black and Orange classic twist in their catalog. It is not listed online yet. I just ordered some had to send an email to have it added to an online order. 521AT0221 is the #.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
I used envirotex lite (from Michaels) on an outdoor table last year after about two weeks in the sun it had yellowed badly and by end of summer was pretty brown. I wouldn't use it on rods for that reason.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
I like to thin the water based 50% then use 2 coats thin and a third coat full strength. I get a good soak with the first two then good coverage with the full strength. On each application I put it on very heavy then once the wraps are soak I will dab the excess off then let dry about an hour and then apply the next coat. Let it dry over night before applying FC or TM. It may be overkill but I
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
I use the Fuji Al Oxide and Hardloys on my fly rods both good guides. Looking in the catalog I might step up to the Alconites for my next build, You really can't go wrong with any of the Fuji's. I've fished both my #6 and #4 pretty hard and for a number of years. finish on the rods is kind of scuffed but guides look like new
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
Like Bob I apply multiple coats first coat soaks thru the thread and fills the tunnel and I can trim any rough edges that might show. Subsequent coats build to thickness I want. I don't remove the excess on the first coat but with the lite formulas they seem to soak thru better. I am using TM Lite now but can't really tell the difference between TM and FC.
Bruce
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
I just repaired an older rod with a loose reel seat and good handles by drilling a hole at top and bottom of reel seat. I drilled thru the blank but not thru both side of reel seat. and then injected epoxy using one of the syringe type epoxy's with the premix nozzle. It looks good. drilled one hole at angle under reel hood and the other hole under where the locking hood would normally be when a
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
The main reason to wrap the tip is cosmetic. They can be a pain to wrap. It does add some weight and can make tip replacement more difficult as Jim notes.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
You might want to wait 48 hrs. I just finished a rod that I put a coat of P-gloss on. I started wrapping after 24 hrs. the thread didn't seem to want to slide very well when trying to pack it. After 48 hrs everything felt a lot better. After 24 hrs the thread didn't make any marks in the finish. I had to unwrap one it just didn't seem to slide as wel.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
100. Permagloss
I just repainted a rod with Testor's Model Master Metallic Spray Enamel. I let it cure at room temperature for about 72 hrs. Then coated with Permagloss. The permagloss softened the paint and actually removed some in a couple places.
I have used permagloss on a couple fo other rods but put it over the old finish and did not have the problem with softening the finish.
My question is how long
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
101. Re: tiger issue
I agree with Ted . You don't have enough contrast the wrap will take on the over wrap color the under wrap will give you the moire effect with the with the red in both under and over wrap just too much red. At there is another tutorial that is all pictures I used it also and the tiger wraps I have done have come out very well
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
I use a rotisserie motor turns about 6 or 7 rpm works great and at that speed I can also apply the finish very easily.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
Flaming and overheating the finish will harm the finish. It is the CO2 in the flame that pops the bubbles. That is why your breath works to pop bubbles Ihave used a flame but don't get it to close to the finish. It is the CO2 that actually causes the bubble to pop.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
use syringes to measure your flexcoat, mix well. I,ve been using flex coat for years and when I have a problem it usually is measuring the finish or not mixing thoroughly. One of the othert boards had this topic and one of the responders said extra hardener would keep the finish tacky and that extra resin would cause it to cure faster.
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
Dark Blue no CP no trim bandswith dark single foot guides they don't look and better. Narrow trim bands look nice also
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
I have used and built fly rods with both snake and single foot guides and prefer the single foot. It is personal preference only can't really tell the difference in casting. The rods I have built for charity raffles I have always built with snake guides because there are so many traditionalists in the sport. Build the rod the way you want it that's why it called a custom rod. I prefer the loo
Forum: rodboard 15 years ago
Bruce Johnstone
107. Re: Tip-top adhesive
Ash
I have used both tip top adhesive and regular hot glue gun adhesive both have worked. I have switched to 5 min epoxy because of the hot sun in car window issue. I have been real happy with that.
Forum: rodboard |