I believe Nuno has those custom made or makes them himself.
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They're coming up RX-6 and RX-7 for me. Bruce Johnstone
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Outstanding company. I do most of my business with them. They share a parking lot with Lamiglas and years ago were in the same building. So if you need lamiglas and they don't have it. They just walk across the lot to get it. They've called me when an item is out of stock. Request a catalog when you place your order. They have a lot more in the catalog than on the website. They've been wo
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I used clemons book for years to do decorative butt wraps. They were all open wraps. I never attempted a closed wrap until a couple years ago after buying Billy's book. It was the first souce I found that told and showed how to space so your threads closed the wrap evenly through the length of the wrap. Bruce Johnstone boise, ID
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You're messing with it to much. I do the same that Billy does without the heat. I put a generous amount on, brush it lengthwise to knock down any brush ridges I might have left in it and let it rotate. I check on it occasionally to make sure it is still rotating. I use an old rotissiere motor that rotates about 7 rpm. I usually have to put on a second coat because the wrap is uneven to begin
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The use of CP will not cause the finish to crack. All finishes will crack at the guide feet over time. This is due to the guide feet flexing at a different rate than the rod blank. Bruce Boise, ID
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Get online do a search. hardloy will handle braid very well. What I found SIC is recommended if you are using wire. But other than that Hardloy is fine. If you are still leary of hardloy use alconite. Both of these are quite a bit cheaper than SIC. As Jeff and Judd state most of your wear is on the tip. Bruce
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I have a small grinder. I use a small bolt #8x32 or similar size depending on the size of the guide. I put the guide between two nuts. The bolt serves as a handle and keeps my fingers out of the wheel. I use masking tape as a cushion between the nuts and the guide surfaces. I can tighten the nuts enough to keep the guide from turning while grinding and it also keeps the nuts from damaging th
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You might try the Batson IST1024F. This is an RX7 8'6". I built one last winter and just got off a week on the North Santiam and Deschutes. It really does a good job with plugs, tadpollys and miniwarts. I built it as a spinning rod. It impressed my brother-in-law so much that I am building two this winter. One for him and one for me as casting rods this winter.
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If the 1's will pass your knots. You dont need all those other sizes. I would probably go 10, 4 or 6, then 1's on out. Bruce
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The wraps hold the guide on the rod. The epoxy protects the wraps. You could acually build and fish a rod without any finish on the thread. The abrasion from every day use would wear through the thread fairly quickly and once a thread breaks there goes the guide. Bruce
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Glad to see them back. They have an excellent selection of products. I use them fairly often.
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I just eyeball them if they look good I go with it. I found if you try to keep them all the same as you go toward the tip the wraps start to look longer even though they measure the same. I generally try to start about 5 or 6 wraps from the guide but even that varies depending on the guide foot length. If it looks good I go with it. Bruce
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I use a 7 rpm motor and works fine. All you need is something to keep blank turning so finish doesn't puddle. 3-4 rpm would work very well. Bruce
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24 hours is the time it takes to cure the epoxy. You can fish it after that. You may have some surface tack still, that takes a day or so to go away. It won't affect the epoxy, it can attract dirt and fingerprints.
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If the epoxy allowed the bubbles to pop it should have been liquid enough to flow in and level. I think you may have fish eyes from some kind of contamination.
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I use a 6 to 7 RPM rotisserie motor and it works fine. When I first started building rod I turned them by hand.
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Why not? This is custom rod building. I think its a good idea.
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Eugene If your having problems with a fly rod casting a particular line try a different weight line. Guide size and setup have very little to do with how a particular rod casts a particular line. The line you are casting is already out of the guides and in the air that weight of the line loads the rod on the back cast and is transferred out of the rod back to the line on the forward cast. Any
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The line does not come off a fly reel or casting reel like it does off a spinning reel. Fly line is already stripped off the reel and does not need to be funneled down. You probably could get by with out a stripping guide on a fly rod and just start with running guides without too much difference in casting distance. I'll leave that to somebody else to try. On the spinning rods I have built u
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The Empire State Building was designed by William F. Lamb from the architectural firm Shreve, Lamb and Harmon, which produced the building drawings in just two weeks, using its earlier designs for the Reynolds Building in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, and the Carew Tower in Cincinnati, Ohio (designed by the architectural firm W.W. Ahlschlager & Associates) as a basis. Every year the staff of
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If you can find Clemens book Custom Thread Art. From a library or online use it in conjunction with Billy's book. I moved up from simple diamonds and chevrons to a maze. Clemens bok was very helpful with the basics then Billy's book was a lot easier to understand for the setup and actual wrap. Then start wrapping even if your not absolutely sure what your doing. For me once the thread starte
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22, 24,26
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Probably will cure properly.. Try it on one just ot be on the safe side.
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Angler's Workshop has a 5'7" 2pc 3wt in their chalkstream series. I believe these may be made by talon. If so they make a very good blank.
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I have painted a few rods using mostly Krylon. Permagloss is "hot" and will soften just about any paint. I have found if I paint the blank let it cure for 3 or 4 days. Take a foam brush and cut a slot in it load it heavily with permagloss, put the rod tip in the slot and make one pass to the butt coating the entire rod, then let it hang and cure. The Permagloss will soften the pain
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I would go 16 or 12 double foot then switch to a single foot 8 and 6's. If you like you could substitute a 12 for the 8. Most of my 6 wts and 8 wts I use a BSVLG12 for stripper an BLG8 single foot then BLG6's on out. No problem with knots. On my 4 wts I use a BLG4 for running guides without any problems.
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The first thing I do after mixing my finish is put a drop of finish on top of the guide at the tunnel. I then turn on the motor and apply the finish to the wraps. Tthe finish runs into the tunnel and fills it in the time required to do the other guides. I start at the handle end and work my way to the top. I always fills the tunnels.
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I use a 9' 4 wt for that size fish. Have a friend uses an 8' 3wt. I am going to build a 3 wt probably 7 or 8 ft for some of the brushier streams I fish. Both rods make a 12" rainbow or Cutt feel a lot bigger than they are. If he likes the 6" make him a 3 wt. My 4 wt is on a tazon blank. I just built a 6wt on a forecast I really like the action it is very close to the talon and a
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You shouldn't need to brush. Load the brush hold it close to the blank so epoxy flows from brush to blank and turn the blank. Brushing will induce bubbles and not because of the brush. I use cheap brushes and throw them away when finished. I don't have to clean them and I don't have problems with bubbes. I do let the finish set in the cup after mixing for a couple of minutes to let any bubbl
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