Take a 6' rod blank and affix the butt solidly. Now tie a lie to the tip and load the rod with it until it breaks. Now take that same 6' rod blank (if you still could) put 1 or 2 guides on it around the mid point and then install a tiptop. Now begin loading the line which is now passed through the guides. The rod will now break under less load and in an entirely different location. ........
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No, you cannot pick up a virus from this site. My guess is you're running Microsoft software and picked it up in an email or something like that. You just noticed it while you were looking at the photos. ........
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A longer rod will cast further provided you can move it at the same speed as the shorter rod. Either you're not moving them at the same speed, or there is some difference between the 2 set ups that is making one of the rods better at casting than the other. Is everything the same between them? Same seat location, same guide system and location (perhaps 1 more running guide on the 7 footer)?
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The article would belong to the magazine (or website), the information would belong to you. There is a difference between the two. ..............
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They will go after the OEM market first due to it's much, much larger size. ..............
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I agree, but even among custom rod builders pre-formed grips outsell custom made grips by 100 to 1. Always have and always will. It'll all depend if the manufacturer decides to get into that area of the market or not. ............
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For year's folks have been seeking a suitable replacement for cork. Not something that serves the same function - there are many good substitutes along those lines. But rather something that looks, feels, weighs and looks like cork. Today I was excited to receive 3 grips made from a new material that does, in fact, look, feel and weigh what cork does. The resiliency is almost identical. No,
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It's done this way for good reason, not a whim or just "because that's the way it's always been done." You will be making a huge mistake if you place that first guide much farther back than specified. Here's what you're overlooking - there is nothing beyond the tiptop to influence the flex of the upper most area of the rod blank. So the curve you see and wish to use to determine the sp
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Seems to me that you have it all figured out. Very well put. Again, you can't really have that situation where the guides are on top and the load is always going to be exactly opposite. It's like trying to walk a tightrope. The slightest shift or movement of the load and suddenly you're off that 0 degree axis and the lever arm effect predominates. ...............
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His experience is going to be the same, no matter where he orients the spine. The lever arm effect of the guides trumps the spine every time. ...........
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John, You are never going to able to cast, retrieve and fight a fish on a perfect nor single axis or plane. The guides will always attempt to turn and twist towards the direction the load is coming from and that direction is going to vary. The Spiral Wrap Demo Device which I've carried to several Expos now, has one rod set up with the spine on top (where proponents say it will eliminate ro
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EVA doesn't work like a hot-melt type substance. Once it's formed, you can't return it to a liquid state and reform it over again. ...........
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No, the guides will always want to be on the bottom. They are in effect, lever arms. They will follow the direction any load is coming from including when you cast. The important thing is, what happens when the rod is under a fish fighting load? This is the important aspect of guide placement. Do this - rig the rod up again, and put the rod under load as if you were fighting a fish - hang som
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You don't need that many guide sizes, 3 at the most. If you know you want a size 20 butt guide, and will be using size 10 running guides, then go 20 - 16 and then as many 10's as you need. Do test cast, however, to make sure your shock leader knot will indeed pass easily through the size 10's - it may not. ............
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I can't guess as to why you want the softer grip, but will mention that the firmer ones tend to be more ergonomically correct and also much more durable over the long haul. But as I said, if you have a particular need for a softer grip, I certainly understand. You'll just have to contact some suppliers and ask. ...........
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Jim, Such a thing can be really upsetting and even set back your timeline for getting those rods done. However, if the company is reputable, someone there in a position of higher authority will want to the full details of your experience. I'd write a nice letter detailing every aspect of the situation and send it and copies to every officer of the company in your Country, as well as to those
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I never got good enough results with the clay to move any further with it. JP Timberlake gave it a whirl as well and like me, he didn't feel it warranted any further work. It's not really suited to the hardness required for turning parts and pieces for rods. At least within the confines of what we were able to accomplish with it. If you've got a good supply, keep at it, but expect to go throug
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If you can sufficiently light the room with overhead flourescent lighting (and you can), I'd do that and skip the clip on lights. Go for efficient fixtures and cool white bulbs and I think you'll be happy. Just make sure to get enough so that the entire room is well lit. Don't skimp. .................
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There can be a slight problem with using what are termed "micro" guides for the Bumper guide, in that there isn't any real room for the line to move in the bottom of the ring. During periods of heavy flex, the line path can shift just a bit between the butt and 180 guide. You want the line to remain straight between them and you don't want the Bumper guide interfering with that path no
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If you're doing this to make money, then you need to sell that rod for at least $175. That would cover your labor and the FET (which I'm sure you're collecting and paying). Ultimately, rods are worth what you clientele is willing to pay for them. But if you're doing this to make money, as a sideline business, you need to consider both your time and knowledge. Why sell for less than a comparab
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The Bumper guide does not aid line transition - the line transitions normally by itself. Remember the Bumper guide is not necessary - it is not part of the normal spacing and should be added only after all the other guides have been spaced and placed. The distance between the butt guide and first 180 guide should only be about 8 to 11 inches at the most. The Bumper goes in-between them and only s
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I've been using scrap thread for tie-off loops for 30+ years. There is probably something better, but they work and you'll always have plenty of them. ..........
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Marco, There will be a surprise for you in the next issue of RodMaker. ............
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Rodon? They had some nice stuff but I haven't seen it in years. ............
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Jay, It's quite a neat unit. Clyde brings them to the Expo each year and sells out. They've been very well designed and are quite well made. Clyde is a sponsor, you can visit him via his link (The Rod Shop) to the left. ..............
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Yes. He has some new, and very exciting bamboo rod blanks ready for market. More details to come. .........
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I've reworked the sponsor list and have included 4 new sponsors. Angler's Envy, Southern Graffix, Angler's Roost (website not active yet) and The Rod Shop (Eco Wrapper). The links have been added to the sponsor list and except for the one noted are all active. .............
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LS Supreme High Build was introduced in mid-2004. I still have some bottles that were sent to me in late 2003 for testing. It was the same stuff that eventually went on the market in 2004. It's very thick - the resin is almost gooey. Many don't like it for that reason, but for those who understand it and know how to make it behave, it's a fine product. We got off track from the original q
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The new issue of RodMaker leaves for the printer tomorrow. Once again we have some good stuff, including some methods and techniques that are completely new to the custom rod building craft. Because we are "custom" rod builders, anything we can do to open up new areas of creativity - to put us in greater control of the parts and pieces we use, is a great benefit to the craft and to wha
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We reported on Steve's Hot Handle in an issue of RodMaker last year (those who don't subscribe will always be a bit behind on the latest rod building items and techniques). Basically, it's a TN handle that is mounted offset so the blank resides along the top inside edge. And, it's completely open from end to end. This does away with the need for any arbors, making it super light. It also all
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