If you can sufficiently light the room with overhead flourescent lighting (and you can), I'd do that and skip the clip on lights. Go for efficient fixtures and cool white bulbs and I think you'll be happy. Just make sure to get enough so that the entire room is well lit. Don't skimp. .................
Forum: rodboard

There can be a slight problem with using what are termed "micro" guides for the Bumper guide, in that there isn't any real room for the line to move in the bottom of the ring. During periods of heavy flex, the line path can shift just a bit between the butt and 180 guide. You want the line to remain straight between them and you don't want the Bumper guide interfering with that path no
Forum: rodboard

If you're doing this to make money, then you need to sell that rod for at least $175. That would cover your labor and the FET (which I'm sure you're collecting and paying). Ultimately, rods are worth what you clientele is willing to pay for them. But if you're doing this to make money, as a sideline business, you need to consider both your time and knowledge. Why sell for less than a comparab
Forum: rodboard

The Bumper guide does not aid line transition - the line transitions normally by itself. Remember the Bumper guide is not necessary - it is not part of the normal spacing and should be added only after all the other guides have been spaced and placed. The distance between the butt guide and first 180 guide should only be about 8 to 11 inches at the most. The Bumper goes in-between them and only s
Forum: rodboard

I've been using scrap thread for tie-off loops for 30+ years. There is probably something better, but they work and you'll always have plenty of them. ..........
Forum: rodboard

Marco, There will be a surprise for you in the next issue of RodMaker. ............
Forum: rodboard

Rodon? They had some nice stuff but I haven't seen it in years. ............
Forum: rodboard

Jay, It's quite a neat unit. Clyde brings them to the Expo each year and sells out. They've been very well designed and are quite well made. Clyde is a sponsor, you can visit him via his link (The Rod Shop) to the left. ..............
Forum: rodboard

Yes. He has some new, and very exciting bamboo rod blanks ready for market. More details to come. .........
Forum: rodboard

I've reworked the sponsor list and have included 4 new sponsors. Angler's Envy, Southern Graffix, Angler's Roost (website not active yet) and The Rod Shop (Eco Wrapper). The links have been added to the sponsor list and except for the one noted are all active. .............
Forum: rodboard

LS Supreme High Build was introduced in mid-2004. I still have some bottles that were sent to me in late 2003 for testing. It was the same stuff that eventually went on the market in 2004. It's very thick - the resin is almost gooey. Many don't like it for that reason, but for those who understand it and know how to make it behave, it's a fine product. We got off track from the original q
Forum: rodboard

The new issue of RodMaker leaves for the printer tomorrow. Once again we have some good stuff, including some methods and techniques that are completely new to the custom rod building craft. Because we are "custom" rod builders, anything we can do to open up new areas of creativity - to put us in greater control of the parts and pieces we use, is a great benefit to the craft and to wha
Forum: rodboard

We reported on Steve's Hot Handle in an issue of RodMaker last year (those who don't subscribe will always be a bit behind on the latest rod building items and techniques). Basically, it's a TN handle that is mounted offset so the blank resides along the top inside edge. And, it's completely open from end to end. This does away with the need for any arbors, making it super light. It also all
Forum: rodboard

Bill, If people in Florida can't use the Hot Handle, then they should stop putting on shoes, using tackleboxes, sticking their fingers in sunglass cases, etc. I appreciate the word of warning, but this is getting a bit silly. ..................
Forum: rodboard

The handle is not dangerous, at least no more so than your shoes, or gloves, or tackle box, any and all of which could harbor a spider. Such caution should be for anything large enough for a spider to get into - the Hot Handle is not spider specific. It's just open, so a spider could crawl in there, just as it could a million other openings in your tackle and boat. .................
Forum: rodboard

Same as Fred, on the smaller diameter blanks with short wraps I can spin the rod by hand and be done just about as quickly as if I was under power. On larger rods, no contest - the power wrapper is the way to go. But on smaller, shorter wraps, it doesn't make much difference. ..................
Forum: rodboard

If the rod measures 8'6" you're probably correct. If it doesn't, then look at 86 inches instead of 8'6". They were very good blanks. It would certainly be worthwhile for something. ...........
Forum: rodboard

Karry has given you some very good information. I would add that any standard type casting or spinning guide will work fine on most surf rods - all but the very heaviest type heavers or Uhla type rods. ...........
Forum: rodboard

That was Sammy's in the RodMaker Photo Gallery. ............
Forum: rodboard

Sammy MIckel has been doing this for years. He's had photos of it in RodMaker and on the photo page here. It's an old idea, borrowed from the rods made in the orient that could be used as either spinning or fly by flipping the handle around. Yes, there is a female ferrule in each end of the grip and a male ferrule on the end of the rod. ....................
Forum: rodboard

A Rod Rescue device, as outlined in a recent issue of RodMaker, is a great benefit to the kayak fishermen. It's not hard to toss a rod in the drink in the small confines of a kayak. Being able to retrieve the rod with a device that is otherwise out of sight and out of mind is a good idea, not to mention a great selling point - you can't get one in any commercially made rod. ..............
Forum: rodboard

Stanley SurForm file for knocking off the epoxy ridges and very rough shaping. Then, a half round scraper for making the grip concentric to the bore. Then, just sandpaper in 80, 100, 150, 220 and 320 grits. ................
Forum: rodboard

They may be in your CP. Don't shake it prior to use, just stir if you need to. ..........
Forum: rodboard

Trondak has not attempted to change their formulation other than to constantly improve it and has been doing so for many years (as most companies do). The LS Regular Build went through 3 incarnations before they got what they wanted. The LS High Build is the same now as it was when introduced and it is a very clear finish. I don't like to get involved in these discussions on which finish is t
Forum: rodboard

If you want the easiest route, go with the thicker fabric in a single layer. You'll generally find the "Heavy" version to be about 3 times thicker than the "LIght" version but the difference in weight is negligible. Follow the original directions as outlined - there is no difference in steps when using the heavy or the light fabric. The heavier fabric is a larger weave and
Forum: rodboard

Polishing compounds often contain abrasives as well. Just be careful if you go that route and try it first on an area that will be covered by the reel seat or grips. ..............
Forum: rodboard

The blank will be in full contact with the entire length of the reel seat. ............
Forum: rodboard

It should be common knowledge among custom rod builders that epoxy set and cure times are very much affected by temperature. For every 18F decrease in temperature from about 70F, you double the set and cure time. Once you get very much under 50F, the epoxies we normally use as thread coatings can take many, many days, even weeks, to cure. ................
Forum: rodboard

6 or 7 is a safe bet. Most likely 6 plus a tiptop. ..........
Forum: rodboard

Do what Mike says and all will be well. Crystallization of the resin is normal over time and in very cool storage temperatures but will not otherwise harm the product. It will last virtually forever. Just heat it until it returns to like new consistency. ....................
Forum: rodboard