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Current Page: 570 of 618
Results 17071 - 17100 of 18533
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Volume 11 #3. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I know most folks don't bother reading the rules here but at least one of the 4 mentions for correct user names is printed right on the bottom of the new user registration window. It's awfully hard to miss. If you're one of the 10 to 15 folks that find your registration didn't get approved today, or any other day for that matter, take another look at the bottom of the new user registration win
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
You can remove all of the finish without harming anything. I wouldn't remove any of the actual blank material, however. I know some will grind down the outside of the butt to fit, but beyond a certain point this could possibly be asking for trouble. Frankly, I wouldn't do it. ...................
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Any line, braid or mono, that is very supple (and all braid is) generally means that the butt guide size can be reduced and the placement to the reel can be closer. How small and how close is something you'll have to play with. Never rely on photographs or videos - they mean nothing. Go with actual results. Where the lure lands is what counts, not what something looks like. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
The RodMaker office rod building room is 10x20, so it's similar in size and layout. Consult the magazine article we did on the shop, with all the photos. It will give you some ideas. You'll do well to put long, narrow benches down each long wall. You might stop short on one side to allow for rod racks and vertical bins, that sort of thing. Don't overlook the ceiling - drop down racks and overh
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Things have a way of coming around, again. What you guys are talking about was the standard practice for nearly all rods from 1900 until about the early 1980's. It's now making a comeback. Through handle, 1-piece construction is a fairly recent thing.
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
If you get CP on the black, it will tend to look a little less dark or a little less true black than any area of the blank that doesn't have CP. So I would recommend either using it on the entire wrap, or not using it at all. If you choose not to use it, then use NCP green. On such narrow bands NCP isn't the least bit offensive and the trim color will stand out much better anyway. ........
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I think some may have missed the point of what I was saying. Using rubber cement for gluing an EVA inlay into a grip would be wrong. Heating PermaGloss in the microwave to try and thin it would be wrong. Using Titebond to adhere foam or cork to a rod blank would be wrong. None these will work and at least can be very dangerous. There are indeed absolutes in rod building just as there are in anyt
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
It has been standard practice for about 50 years, to build the handles on a separate section of rod blank and build the rods on another. Then the 2 pieces are brought together and joined, either under the reel seat or foregrip, or just forward of that point. This isn't new and it's done to facilitate the process of building the rod by allowing one company or sub assembly plant to do nothing b
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Some things work and some don't. You never want to hide 2+2=5 as being correct and just another of many ways to do math. There are some answers in regards to custom rod building that certainly are either absolutely correct or absolutely wrong. Fortunately in your case here, it's not one of those instances. Having said that, Sharpie colored guide feet won't necessarily cause any problems. If y
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I have some reels that would be over 100 years old and which would have likely been used on such a rod. I'll try to take a photo and put it up early this coming week. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
It won't be extremely durable, but it will be okay. It really all depends on how the user handles it. Some will beat it to death in a single season. Others will still have it looking nice 5 years down the road. .............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Loomis continues to make blanks in Woodland, Wa. Others would be Seeker, Calstar, Talon, Rogue, Lamiglas, St. Croix, Steffen Brothers, Sage, some Orvis, some Powell, some Winston. ................
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
At some point you are reduced to chipping, slicing, etc., to get rid of super hard adhesive spots. Just be careful not to cut or slice into the blank when doing this. You might also try sanding that one spot with an emery board. Again, don't sand into the blank. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Many years ago folks would often mix cork dust with Duco Cement. It works okay. Other guys these days are using wood putty in a color that matches their cork. .............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I would suggest using the smallest guides that will still pass your line and required connections, and the job that you need to do. If these happen to be what you call "micro guides" so be it. If it takes something larger, then so be it. ..........
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
The spiral wrap is almost always a good idea, since that's where the guides want to be in the first place. Tape up a set of guides on top of your casting rod and then go out and use it a bit. They'll end up all spinning to the bottom. That's where they want to be. Single foot guides will work fine. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I doubt that talk was coming from the epoxy formulators and suppliers. Even so, some guys do this. You'll have to see who chimes in and/or just try some experiments yourself. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I haven't used that blank but know many guys who swear by Dan Craft blanks. The few I've played around with were quite good. Very good value and performance for the money. As good, I think, as many blanks costing more. Whether or not they'll appeal to you I can't say. You have to decide that for yourself but if you'll do a search of this forum, I think the majority of the comments you'll find ab
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Okay, with that information it is certainly genuine. What you're probably seeing is that area where they were careful not to sand very deeply for fear of getting into the outer layers of fiber. I assume it's on or near the tip area? It will be fine for use. If for some reason you feel the cosmetics are terrible (something that is noticeable by anyone even at a few feet - a real sore thumb
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Right, but I was thinking more along the lines of how to actually use the blank or rod - how to prevent breakage, etc. It's amazing how few fishermen understand how to generate maximum force with a rod without putting it in danger of breaking, or what to do if you need to free a snag, etc. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
When blanks come out of the oven, the cellophane wrap is removed and will reveal spiral ridges left from the flowed resin. Years ago, many companies didn't even bother to sand it - the blanks were delivered and made into rods with the ridges intact. Most are now sanded smooth, although on slim, thin walled graphite blanks they go real easy and you might still see some slight ridges. I would as
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
There is a problem with line test ratings themselves. Lines rated for "pound test" are rated so that the line breaks at or above the listed number. So a line that has a straight line breaking strength of 30 pounds can accurately be listed as "10 pound test." It's been this way for a long, long time and you'll remember seeing ads where one maker talks about how much stronger
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I think he's talking about the Recoil casting and spinning guides. Loomis does use them on many of their casting rods. The only question would be is the information contained with the photo accurate. ...............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
This is primarily important on thin walled graphite blanks. After being wrapped, slight pressure should cause a guide to move a tad. If you can't move it without great pressure, it's too tight. If it slips and slides easily under the thread, it's too loose. ..............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
See if you can set your camera for a smaller or lower "quality" image. That will reduce the pixel size. The internet is a low resolution medium and 7.2 megapixels is overkill for anything you'd need for web use. ...........
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Cutting from either end will result in a slower action rod. Cutting from the butt will reduce the power slightly. Cutting from the tip will increase the casting lure weight range a little. You can consider cutting equal amounts from both ends. I would try to limit my cut to the least amount possible. A cut-off wheel in a Dremel Tool will work fine. If you're familiar with the Common Cents
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Here's the first thing you're going to have to do - buy advertising. There is a cost associated with doing business and free mentions of your product, such as you just did here, aren't fair to those footing your advertising bill nor to others who are paying to advertise their similar product (Clyde Alho, from the Rod Shop with his Eco Wrapper for example). This is the biggest impediment to so
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
Check the size of your files. Anything larger than 2000 pixels is unnecessary and won't upload. Also make sure you're putting the photos into a category or nothing will happen. ............
Forum: rodboard
15 years ago
Tom Kirkman
I take that back, it depends on which side of the guide we're looking at. Not sure if the reel is to the front of the photo or to the rear. ..........
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 570 of 618

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