It's not soft, it's as hard as the blank. ............
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You can shave off any dust or protrusions with a razor blade and recoat. ............
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I think he's talking about using rollers on a spinning rod. These things have been and are being done. The All American @#$%& Rollers were designed for this purpose. ............
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You may be boiling the finish. That's too much heat. Most of the time, only the resin would need to be warmed and then only if it 's thick from being stored in a cold area. Consult the online library here for a mechanical mixer that can help eliminate bubbles formed when mixing. Stirring introduces bubbles. ..............
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If this is a situation where you're putting the tip into the butt, and it's an oversleeve, then you're putting a smaller piece into a larger piece. Not a good design. ...............
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I believe that St. Croix makes a shorter 8-weight rod, but not sure just how short it is. MIght be 8'9" instead of 8'. ...........
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What type ferrule is this? A spigot? Generally fitting the ferrule requires careful trimming and when possible careful sanding. Additives and waxes are short term fixes, it fixes at all. ..........
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I apply it in the same direction as the threads are wound. Dip the brush into the CP, hold it above the rod and lower it to the wrap as you rotate the rod. This results in fewer bubbles. I've never had to spin or turn the rod once the CP has been applied. How much are you putting on there? Be careful in thinning your CP. It's already mostly just water, and adding more water can mean that yo
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Here is where they were unveiled to the custom rod building craft: RodMaker Magazine Volume 10 #6. A subsequent article on another method for sleeving them appeared in Volume 11 #4. In a nutshell, you are using carbon fiber sleeving to skin an underlying grip of either foam (carbon foam grips first appeared in Volume 10 #6) or cork. This is accomplished with the use of a wetting epoxy on the
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If the looseness is up inside at the top of the male end, which is what I understand from this, then you need to trim the female ferrule. ............
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You need to uniformly and fully wet the threads. They should turn dark, and uniform, when you apply the CP. If the thread isn't turning dark and uniform, you aren't applying enough. If the CP is running and dripping off the wrap, you're putting too much on. 1 coat is generally enough, but 2 isn't going to hurt anything. .............
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Any natural curve or warp will rarely if ever, be in line with the spine. It is possible to heat a rod up to a certain degree, straighten, and then allow to cool in a straighter manner, but this is tricky work because the resins in the matrix are not exactly along the lines of something such as say, hot melt glue. Go even a little too far with the temperature and you've ruined the blank. For t
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You can safely apply epoxy over almost anything, including PermaGloss. But PermaGloss doesn't cure, it dries. So you have to allow sufficient time for that to occur. An hour is not going to do it. In very humid areas, at least 3 days should be allowed. In drier areas, at least a week should be allowed. Always err on the side more time rather than less. ............
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They should. In other words, it's not the same blank just 6 inches longer or shorter. They're made on different mandrels with different patterns to allow for the difference in length and still have the same action and power length for length. But I only have a 706 on hand so I can't actually compare them here. .............
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No, it's not bad in any way. ...........
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You made a bad mistake by trimming the wrong end of the ferrule. Just to get back where you started, you have to then cut the female end which has shortened the amount of overlap. Another cut from the female end would be the proper fix. Provided you have enough overlap left, this would be the way to go about restoring the fit. Remember you can always trim more, but you can't put any back on
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I doubt it. All the hardeners will darken to some degree. The UV inhibitors which are used in some hardeners to help inhibit this, will themselves add a slight color cast to the product. Your product is fine. What you see there is normal. ............
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No. ............
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The original Loomis casting handle introduced back in the mid 1980's and used in through-blank construction had a 15 degree offset (Remember the RodMaker article on ergonomics and how important such an offset is?). To my knowledge, it is the only slide-over casting handle with a built in offset. It did require you to use their rear cork, or jump through a few hoops in boring your own, but it wa
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I think you're headed in a better direction now. ................
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It's not bad and it'll be fine for use. All epoxy hardeners will darken to some extent. How quickly they do so depends on a several factors, including light and heat. But it's going to happen and it happens to them all. Please also keep in mind that when you look through a bottle you're looking through a very thick cross section. If you were to pour out just a little onto a countertop - simi
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Similar, but with a much quicker set and cure time. The owners decided that they didn't want to be in the business of selling small quantities of the product, such as that purchased by custom rod builders. .............
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I believe Wade Cunningham did a lot of their design work. Much of their product, like many others, were clones of the older and very popular G. Loomis products. I've often thought Shikari came closer to the Loomis designs than anyone else. I don't want to get into specifics of why they sold their operation. Just business and having to carry too much debt. ATC (Advanced Tubular Composites) par
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Glass Coat has been off the market for several years now. Epoxies such as these are 100% solids and will not interact nor interfere with each other. There are no solvents to create problems with underlying coats. .............
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Without fully knowing exactly what he's going to be doing, I still have a feeling that what you should be after is 6'6 to 7' rod with a lighter tip, that can be trolled or cast but used to fight the fish in a hand-held fashion. A chair type trolling rod is out of the question and a true stand-up type rod would whip these poor fish in mere minutes (maybe that's what he wants). I just have a sus
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If he's going to fight the fish standing up, you do not want an IGFA type trolling rod. Not sure you want a short stand-up rod exactly but a chair type rod isn't likely to work well for what you have in mind. Go through Volume 5 #6 on the article for stand-up rods and get an idea of what might work best for use in a harness. From there I think you can make a better selection. .........
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You might consider turning the cork first, then applying the dye. One other test you need to make, is to see if the end product will be colorfast. Sometimes it takes hot water or a touch of vinegar to "set" the dye into the item being dyed. You'll want to test this, otherwise the dye may leave you the first few times the grip gets wet. ..............
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Any time you join 2 pieces, rod blank and handle blank, there will be some loss in sensitivity. However, I doubt many fishermen could ever tell the difference from this type system to a 1-piece straight through design. From a practical standpoint, we're not talking about very much. Major commercial rod companies manufacture and sell a lot of rods. Hundreds of thousands. It becomes more cost ef
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Before making any other comment, I would ask if he plans to do this sort of fishing from a chair? Are we talking about trolling? .............
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That's a good point, too. If it works well with mono, it will work well with braid. But not necessarily the other way around. ...........
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