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New Work Area
Posted by:
Mitch Leppelmeier
(207.58.240.---)
Date: April 06, 2009 11:10AM
So I talked the wife into allowing me to convert the upstairs in a rod room. The space is 8 x 16. How would you seasoned pros layout the ultimate work area? Any "dusty" tasks will still be done in the garage so it will be just for wrapping, finishing, and assembly. Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: April 06, 2009 11:47AM
The RodMaker office rod building room is 10x20, so it's similar in size and layout. Consult the magazine article we did on the shop, with all the photos. It will give you some ideas.
You'll do well to put long, narrow benches down each long wall. You might stop short on one side to allow for rod racks and vertical bins, that sort of thing. Don't overlook the ceiling - drop down racks and overhead rod rotation devices can be kept and used there without giving up any floor space. ................... Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Mitch Leppelmeier
(207.58.240.---)
Date: April 06, 2009 11:56AM
What issue was that in? Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: April 06, 2009 12:06PM
Volume 11 #3.
............ Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Richard Carlsen
(---.dhcp.trcy.mi.charter.com)
Date: April 06, 2009 12:44PM
Don't forget to think very seriously about an adequate ventilation system for the new room. Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Bill Eshelman
(---.skylan.net)
Date: April 06, 2009 02:52PM
Mitch,
Give plenty of thought to your electrical and lighting needs. Bill Ohio Rod Builders Canton, Ohio Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Alex Dziengielewski
(---.scana.com)
Date: April 06, 2009 04:10PM
What height is the ceiling? Depending on the length of rods you work on and the ceiling height (I know a lot of rooms like that have slated celings, etc) you may consider rod blank storage on the ceiling as well. One more thing up and out of the way and the rod always is horizontal.
Don't install a ceiling fan - stirs dust and rod tips hate them. ----------------- AD Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: April 06, 2009 04:58PM
Mitch,
Light - light, and more light. Nothing worse than trying to detail work with poor lighting. When I redid my work area, I put 2X4 florescent fixtures every two feet. That meant that there was no more than 20 inches between any light source. Much better to have a very very uniform lighting of a relatively lower level, than super hot bright spots in only a few areas. Then, when you need super light for certain areas, like your wrapper, use task lighting for just those areas. Long narrow benches around the room are a great idea. Plus a central assembly area in the center - possibly fold up or portable also works very well. When redoing the room, don't overlook lots of outlets at frequent intervals. You never know where and when you need more power. Also, the ability to have special room heat is a great idea. That way, if you want to dry a bunch of rods at the same time, you can simply raise the overall room tempterature and use the entire room for a dryer if needed. If you have a window with a plesant view - it is nice to have that area for your primary wrapping area. You will likely spend a lot of time in the wrapping area, and it is nice to do it in front of a window with a plesant view to rest your eyes from time to time. Roger Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: April 06, 2009 05:03PM
ps.
In a new area, a nice way to make long narrow work benches is to get common kitchen counter tops with rounded front edges. Get tops that are long enough for an entire wall - if you plan to go this way. Before bringing it home - have the home store rip the counter top to the width that works for your area. If you want to use the full depth - go for it. However, most wrapping tables seldom need depths any greater than about 18 - 20 inches. So, if you want it this width - just have it ripped off the back of the counter top. Then, simply mount a 2X2 or 2X4 on the back wall, and rest the back edge of the counter top on the ledge to support it. The nice way to support the front is with wall mounted knee braces to allow for full end to end movement without having any issues with leg or foot room. Some folks recommend putting drawers under counter tops, but I normally don't like that since it doesn't allow for any leg room under the work bench if you want to work on its full length from a sitting position. If you do all of your work from a standing position, then the use of space under the work bench is less critical. Good luck and enjoy your new project. Roger Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Mitch Leppelmeier
(207.58.240.---)
Date: April 06, 2009 05:06PM
Thanks for all the input. The ceilings are slanted witch is the only down fall to the workspace. I was going to use overhead PVC tubes for blank storage. The only other problem is that the upstairs is about 10 degrees colder then the rest of the house.. Do you think a dryer box would work better then a space heater? Re: New Work Area
Posted by:
Terry Turner
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: April 07, 2009 10:11AM
I installed a direct vent gas stove in my rod room when we built the new room over the garage. It's a great and quick source of heat and most come with a remote thermostat. It does take some space so a free standing space heater may do the trick for you.
One long bench along a 22' wall and an assembly area in the middle. Works great. Terry Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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