I have not seen Dave active here in many years. JK Fisher has been gone for several years. ..............
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Bill, No one fudges CCS numbers - they are used to provide accurate relative power ratings. Once you know how to relate to those figures, you can do a great deal with them. But again, there are no parameters in the CCS - that type stuff is just in the fisherman's mind. The CCS makes so much sense, but I'm afraid many still don't understand it. And... if it doesn't work for all rod types,
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Bobby, Those people you mention don't understand the system nor are they good at using the numbers to get what they think would be suitable. In fact, with all due respect, I'm not sure you really understand it after reading your post. I don't even know what "parameters" you're talking about - they don't exist within the CCS. It may be that what you are objecting to are those "p
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You can also slide a piece of surgical tubing over the end of the mandrel. This accomplishes pretty much the same thing as what Chuck has suggested doing with the rubber band, but keeps things easily centered. ................
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I took an 8lb, 4 ounce smallmouth on the New River about 3 years ago, on a 5-weight. And most of the fish in VA won't be anywhere near that large. Yes, I'd still recommend a 5 or a 6, at the very most. I can cast huge flies with either one. I think most folks really overgun for these fish, and end up not having much fun with the 10 to 14 inchers, which make up the majority of what any of us are g
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The line won't rub the blank with a Simple Spiral and Bumper guide. ..............
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Such a method is already available - it's called "Action Angle" and is a component of the Common Cents System. And it works on all rod types, not just fly rods. The CCS doesn't have any idea what a fly rod is - it just takes the measurements of whatever you stick in there. ...............
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That's a lot of rod - I'd suggest a 5 or 6 weight in an 8'6" model. ............
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I use ceramics. The smallest guide that will pass your required line and associated connections will be the proper size. Hard to say what that will be - depends on what you're using. I end up with 8's on most of mine. You may be able to go smaller, or might have to go larger. Again, it depends on what type line system you're using. .................
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It's not an expensive rod so whether or not it's worth your time is hard for any of us to say. If you can put it back in service just by rewrapping and finishing the guides, I'd say it's a decent project. ...............
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Around here live bait rods are used for fishing with live bait on freelines, balloon rigs, etc., and the quarry is everything from striped bass to kings. The tip is light and fast so you can see what the bait is doing (now that's sensitivity when you know a strike is going to happen a few seconds before it actually does) and so the fish doesn't come up against a solid pull when he hits - the tip
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Provided you have the height needed, a size 20 is more than plenty. A 16 could easily work, but it will help if you can get one that's very high. ...............
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Again, what exactly is a "5-weight?" I'm sure, and you probably are too, that those that are telling him that don't understand what fly line numbers relate to. What you could do, is tell him that the 863-4 is a 5-weight rod. That number on a rod is subjective anyway, and as a custom rod builder you are free to rate the rod any way you want. I used to do this quite often. A guy would
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1 to 2 inches over a single foot of length is not okay. Something like that should never have made it past the QC department. 1 to 2 inches over 6 to 10 feet is not necessarily bad. .......
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First, you'd need to educate the customer on what "5-weight" really means. That's a line rating, not a rod rating. So the term "5-weight" means roughly 5/16th of an ounce. Now you can attain that amount of weight with just about any fly line, depending on how much of it you put past the tip. So now the question is simply, is the rod capable of loading with 5/16th ounce of we
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Sometimes but not always. I have some live bait rods that are extremely powerful and possess very soft, light, fast tips. But I also have some casting rods that are just as fast, with less overall power, and with tips that are quite a bit stiffer than those on the live bait rods. For the same power, however, I'd say your observation would be correct most of the time. ..........
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This is where we get into the different aspects of what folks consider Action to mean. I have some live bait rods that are extremely stiff in the butt and mid areas, but very soft and light in the tip. They are definitely fast action rods. I also have some regular spinning rods that are just as fast action, but much stiffer in the tip without being anywhere near as powerful in the butt and mid
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Back to your original question... My fishing, on nearly all fronts, is probably too simplified. But as I get older, that's what I prefer (and I catch more fish now than in previous years). I like an extra fast action on everything from fly to stand-up. Most all of my rods are built on blanks that have been extended. I'm in the process of having some fly rod blanks manufactured and they featu
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I have not received anything yet. ..........
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Bill Colby did an article last year on a shaded EVA grip. Bernie's article will be along the lines of the pattern/picture type inlays in the grip surface. ................
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Generally, the manufacturers ask you not to return blanks or other parts to the dealers you purchased from. You would send the questionable part to the manufacturer. This takes the dealer out of the picture (and prevents him from having to eat shipping costs) and allows the manufacturer to work directly with the customer. It also ensures that they get any bad parts back so they can see exactly wh
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I guess that would be okay, but I'd never put a piece of sandpaper on a thin wall graphite blank to begin with. Not much room for error and it's the outer fibers that carry most of the load. I wouldn't want to damage them. Everybody has their own way of doing things. When using dark colored blanks I tend to just adjust my thread colors so I don't have bleed problems. I use darker thread for th
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The issue that comes out in June will have Bernie's article. There have been several other articles in RodMaker on EVA inlays and techniques. What types are you interested in? .............
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I believe they have a small bit of white in their uniforms. I would use the NCP yellow as it will more closely resemble the yellow the Steelers use. Same with the white. A base wrap of black with yellow and white trims would be very attractive. ..............
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Go here: Put up a sell add (it's free) and see if you can sell or trade with someone. ..............
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I doubt they'd excel at cutting steel or copper, but for fly tying chores they're fantastic. Considering that most ceramics scissors sell for $50 to $150 per pair, I think these are a steal. Why not order a pair and see what you think. They're short, fine tipped and narrow. Made for fly tying. I suppose they might have some applications in rod building but I have always used mine for trimming
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I understand - 2 people separated by a common language. PermaGloss has a surface that is slightly rippled, hence the "eggshell" term. But it is quite clear and glossy bright. ..........
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It bonds with tremendous strength. Try not to get any on you or you'll be wearing it for some time. ...........
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Another reason why the Common Cents System's AA (Action Angle) makes perfect sense. .............
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Yes, it would be the first issue of your new subscription. This is why I don't put the current issue out as a back issue right away, I know that between issues I'll have another 200 to 300 new subscribers come in and need these issues to begin their subscriptions with. Whatever is then left over after a subsequent issue is printed is then put into the back issue stock. ..............
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