Page 17. Specifically titled "Holo Papers." There are 4 photos that go along with it showing how to clamp the edges of the stiffer holographic paper. On very small rod blanks this may still be a tough one and the Holo Shine media may be better for you. The article has all this information. ..............
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Generally dealers will accept returns, provided you return the entire lot. You won't get to pick out and keep some pieces and return others. You either take it all, or return it all. ................
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Size doesn't matter. ............
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James, The problem with getting the stiffer papers to adhere to the blank without lifting and curling was covered in the article. I assume you have read about using the "clamp?" .............
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Having apparel made to advertise your business when you're out fishing or to provide to your customers is a great idea. Sorry we got off the original topic. I'm sure you'll have fun with the Tiger wraps. ..................
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The first guide on spinning and casting rods is called the "butt" guide. On a fly rod, the first guide is known as the "stripping" guide. When you cast the rod, the line will travel along the guide ring at its lowest point. Gravity ensures that. What you want to look for is what happens when the rod is fully loaded. Is that guide high enough or close enough to prevent
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There is no choker guide on a casting rod. Not sure what you're referring to there. The line cannot travel through the middle of a guide ring. Gravity ensures that can't happen. It will always travel along the lowest edge of the ring pertaining to how the rod is held during the cast. Once you have done your static placement, just go outside and cast the rod a bit. If it meets your requireme
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Choose a category for your photo to be placed into. Keep your photo files under 1500 pixels square. About 800 is ideal. ...............
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I can appreciate the humor, but I'll tell you that the one thing vendors at such events hate the most is the guys who will not contribute to an event by buying booth space, but who will walk around trying to drum up business via their clothing and business cards. That's just plain stealing. It that's not what Dave and Bill are talking about then I apologize for even bringing it up. But if it
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None of the guides are there to "take up loading" the blank does that on its own. Again, tie a line to the tip and load the line, the blank will load progressively towards the butt as the load increases. That's the way they're designed. Yes, turning the guide around definitely gets the frame out of the way on a spiral wrap on those first few guides. You can crack any SIC ring if y
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It shouldn't be too hard to find something with an ERN of about 5 and an AA between 65 and 70. I'll look through some of my stuff this evening and see if I can come up with anything, although if I do it will likely be something not made anymore. ........
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You do need the first 180 guide there, to bring the line back under the center of the rod quickly. If you're still worried about the line making contact in the bottom of the ring, just use a smaller ring or lower frame for that one than you do for the remainder of the guides under the rod. This also helps move the line back closer to the center of the rod. This is the one problem you may encou
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Common Cents System - measurements for action and power. ........
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The guide doesn't need to "load." Blanks have a progressive action whereby the load on the blank will transfer the flex in the rod lower and lower towards the butt as the load continues to increase. This is true even if you didn't have any guides on the rod at all. Tie a line to the tip and load the rod to maximum capacity - the entire blank will be "unsupported" by any guide
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It would work fine. ............
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If it works, it works. However, I'd suggest trying one more spacing arrangement before deciding how to go. Try to find a guide that will fit the same line path but be situated about 19 to 21 inches from the reel spool face. It's likely that one size larger guide than what you now have should do the trick. From there, you'll need 1 additional guide to make it to the choker. Get that set up and
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If you're attending fishing shows wearing apparel with your rod building business name on it, you're stealing from the show promoter and those who have bought booth space. Anyone that wishes to benefit monetarily or business-wise from any event should pony up to the table and buy booth space. That's the fair and proper way to do business. ...........
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You aren't likely to get any ring to stay in the tiptop if you deform/bend it. However, you can try this. When applying your finish, allow it to get a little "stiff" and use a toothpick to put a drop of finish at 3 points along the junction of the ring to the frame. The finish will smooth and flow just a tad so don't worry about it looking bad - it won't be noticed. Do this on both side
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Bill, I do use a smaller guide at the first 180 degree position than for all the rest of the running guides. But I do this mainly to get the line back near the centerline of the rod at that point. I would agree that it isn't likely to make much difference in the overall scheme of things. ......... Timothy, I'm not going to waste time explaining the fallacy of those odd guide sizes an
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Folks can call them whatever they want. The point I think Bill was trying to make is that these articles contain a lot more in the way of advice and caveats than any of the shorter tutorials that have made the rounds on the internet. Within them you'll find the considerable experience of the 2 guys that have been doing these wraps longer than anyone else. Take it all to heart and you'll be fine.
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I think I know who you're referring to. He made several phone calls to me last year or so. It wasn't hard to tell from our conversations that he still has a lot to learn. He's a beginner. Be careful - everyone is an expert on the internet but many such "experts" are in serious lack of practical experience. Sean has provided better guidance for you here. You don't need all those dif
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I don't know what you mean. We have about 7000 registered users here. ............
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What you see in the RodMaker text is 10 point. Try to envision that size on your rod and what might be appropriate a little larger or a little smaller. .............
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That is the total number of photos posted and currently online in the database. All, with the exception of a few dozen that have been removed for some reason, are on the page and available for viewing. You can click on any category and then use the page numbers at the bottom of each category page to navigate to any or all of the photos. There is also a search feature that can be used with user
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To put up a system that allows people to edit their buy/sell posts requires a different package than what I offer here for your free use. You would have to register and then log in and out (otherwise anyone could edit your post). It would cost additional money to obtain the software, and more money to put it online, maintain and host it. Not to mention the time I'd have to spend everyday helping
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I can't make heads nor tails of the sizes you suggest. Starting small and then getting larger and then smaller again, seems pretty odd. What's the point? First, you'll have to decide if you're going to spiral wrap in a standard type system with transition guides, or with the Simple Spiral/Bumper with no transition guides. ...............
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It doesn't matter if you use gloss or matte. You may find matte easier to apply without runs. Once the epoxy has been applied over the top of the decal, the gloss and shine will return. ..............
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They won't crack unless you do something to crack them. I've used them for years and never had a single one crack. And we'd be talking thousands and thousands of them. No, they're not prone to cracking any more than rods are prone to breaking. Abuse is what breaks rods and cracks guide rings. ..........
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Would be nice to be able to afford the software that would allow users to do that. But I'm tapped out. Sorry. ..............
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With the Tormek, there is a gouge attachment that keeps the angle correct during the entire process. It's an almost foolproof sharpening system. But again I know you're aiming at doing things on the flat stones. You'll get the hang of it after a bit. ...............
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