What is the best way to keep the rod attached to the chuck when turning cork? Right now I just have a dowel I keep adding/removing tape from.

Thank you!

Wade

The chuck shouldn't be loosening. Can you elaborate on your chuck and exactly how you've got things connected?

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Wade,
If I am doing a full blank - handle glue up - I glue the rings on the blank and then spin the handle and blank at the same time while shaping the cork handle.

To do this, I use a "stick" inserted into the end of the blank to turn the entire blank and handle.

As you have indicated, I use tape if necessary to space out the "stick" to insure a tight fit on the inside of the blank for a secure fit on the inside of the blank. The other end of the "stick" is inserted into the chuck and tightened down.

Now for the stick-
I use either a hollow graphite blank section, a piece of solid graphite or fiberglass stick, or a piece of metal drill rod.

The "sticks" that have been working the best are the solid glass or graphite shafts that are sanded down for a perfect match for the interior of the particular blank being turned. As time has gone by, I have made a pretty good selection of glass or graphite sticks to fit a very large variety of blank diameters and tapers. Thus, I simply grab the right stick from the stick box, insert it into the blank and turn away.

For most of my new rod builds, I put the butt cap on the rod at the very end of the build. As a result, I generally keep the stick in the butt of the blank through the build process.
That way, I simply use the protruding stick to chuck into my power wrapper when I am doing the guide wraps.

However, for my dryer, I remove the stick and insert the completed rod butt into my neoprene dryer chuck.
Then, when the rod comes out of the dryer, the rod is complete.

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So, if you are asking about how to keep the blank attached to the full length rod lathe, I generally use a shaped solid fiberglass or graphite stick that is a tight fit for the interior of the blank.

If, on the other hand, you are building only handles, and not turning the entire cork, then I use steel mandrels to hold the rings for gluing and turning. If I don't have the exact diameter mandrel to have a tight fit on the inside of the cork or other grip material, I will use tape to build up the mandrel a bit to insure a tight non slip fit for lathe shaping.

Be safe in your turning endeavors.

Roger

This is what I was looking for...where does one find solid graphite/glass rods?

Thank You Roger.

Wade,
You can use fiberglass or graphite arrow shafts.
You can find fiberglass or graphite shafts at some plastic supply houses.
You can often go to sporting goods stores with archery ranges and pick up broken arrows for no charge.

You can often find solid fiberglass shafts in hardware stores where they are sold for handles, drive way markers etc.

Take care
Roger

Thanks Roger...I have one ready to turn, so this really helps!

Wade,
In addition to the use of the graphite and fiberglass shafts, I also use steel shafting.
I have picked up a set of all of the common hardware store variety steel rod.
I simply picked up the full set of various sizes in 12 inch lengths.
So, I can also go from 1/8th - up to 1 inch in steel shafting as well.

As with the fiberglass or graphite, I will use a layer of tape as needed to insure a nice tight fit into the butt of the blank.

Take care
Roger