Up to this point I've always included the rod specs from the manufacturer on each rod I've built . This includes such details as length, lure weight, line weight, action and speed. I've also included the manufacturer model number, i.e. XMB783. I've received calls from prospective customers asking to have a rod built with specifics they prefer and then want to know what manufacturer's model I
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Guess I'll add my two cents too. I've done a lot of labels, both ink jet and laser. My first printer was an HP ink jet and it did a great job until it died. I got another HP after that but wasn't real pleased with the black, it was more of a very dark purple when compared to my earlier labels. I returned that and got an Epson Artison 710. It prints great ink jet labels using the Papillo cl
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I put a twist of masking tape on the mandrel where each end of the wood sits. Just enough tape to hold it snug.
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Krylon Crystal Clear spray works great.
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Follow this link and order this CD, it has everything you're looking for.
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More than likely what you got at the expo was eastern red cedar, also known as aromatic cedar. I've turned a lot of handles and agree it's great stuff. 90% of the wooden handles I turn are with it. In fact, my supply is almost down to nothing, time to find some more!
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Vince, welcome to the forum and rod building in general This forum has a great search function and is very easy to use. This will get you started:
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The key is to drill the hole first, say 1/2", then slide the wooden blank onto a 1/2" mandrel and do your turning. It forces the hole to be perfectly centered.
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David, I've used this process many times with great success.
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Same as Scott, I've been using the 3oz Solo Ultra Colors plastic cups with zero issues.
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Chuck, I've got a few rods to get done also. Yes, I'm planning to use the specs from Batson's website, recommended guide sizes and spacing. When I get to building these I'll let you know.
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Chuck, I built the spiral wrap comparison on SB722's. I'll probably use the same blanks for the MV comparison. I noticed the St. Francis address. Welcome to the area. At some point I'm hoping to move to somewhere in your old area!
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Chuck, What I'm in the process of doing is getting two inexpensive blanks of the same model. I'm going to wrap one with the MW setup and one with the manufacturers recipe. The manufacturers recipe is likely to be most similar to setups that fishermen would find off the shelf. I think that will show the greatest advantage with using the MW setup. An aside, I just finished building the jig
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I have a potential customer wary about the spiral wrap for the same reason Mark just mentioned.
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There's probably more than one way to do this but for me it's pretty straightforward. Print the desired picture on clear back decal paper. Do a white underwrap with nylon thread. I add a black thread underwrap border on each side of the white thread. This gives the decal a place to seamlessly blend into the background of the blank. Give the underwrap a coat of color preserver
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Just yesterday I had a customer picking up his ice rods and he noticed some of the graphics weren't what he wanted. Because we had sat down beforehand and covered every detail I was able to show him the mockups we had discussed at the beginning of the project. He had okayed them earlier but it was a simple misunderstanding and I was able to fix them in time for him to pick up today. He was hap
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It's not online but it's all in this CD that Tom has created, plus a ton of other stuff.
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Phil +1! If you're talking about just attaching the decal of the rods specs that comes from the manufacturer, that's one thing. But a LOT of time can go into creating graphics that meets the needs of the customer.
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Thanks everyone, I did loan him one of my rods to try and I have convinced the angler in question to give it a try. He's the current reigning champ in his bass league so maybe having him using one will perhaps convince the others league members to try one. (cross my fingers)
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I often encounter customers who are looking to have me build for a bait casting rod for them. These are typically bass rods. I build all my personal rods as functionally sound as possible and want to do the same for my customers. I explain to them the advantage of doing a spiral wrap vs. a conventional layout,but some say they don't like the look or it's personal preference to go with the conv
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Great advice Mark, couldn't agree more.
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I've got a guy lined up that has been a customer of mine for a few years. Real stand-up guy who acts in a very professional manner and would represent my rods accordingly. I don't think I'd want to have more than 2 or three guys in this role. Maybe a bass tournament guy to cover that scene. Maybe a walleye guy and maybe an ice fishing guy.
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Jerry, I would think the rods built for them at cost would be a very good incentive for that service.
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For those of you that have "pro staff" fisherman, if I may, I'd like to ask a few questions. ~ Would you describe your business related process with them? In other words, what each of you provides for the other. ~ Do you offer discounts to them in exchange for the visibility they provide for your rods? ~ Do they provide solid referrals that lead to builds from new customers? ~ Ha
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Ditto Jim. I don't use pennys either. Just a bottle with water, then weigh it on a postal scale. Works great!
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It's kind of a bummer but if you measure every blank that you're able to, pretty soon you'll have a good selection to pick from when this situation arises again some day. I've built on a number of the Batson blanks. If you're able to shoot me the AA, ERN and rod length you're looking for I may be able to recommend one of their blanks that is similar.
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Casey, all the CCS is designed to do is give you a couple objective measurements. Action angle and ERN. A bathroom scale will tell you how much something weighs but not whether something is heavy or light. If an action angle is taken for two different rods, you'll know which one is faster because it'll have a higher AA. Same with ERN, one rod will be more powerful than the other. The on
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Casey, I've been using the dry transfer method from Pulsar for about a year now. Like with anything else there is a learning curve but once you get the hang of it, the results are great. You can even do two or three types of prism foils. Results are similar to the electric decals referred to in Rodmaker without the need for the special paper.
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Whenever a rod is trimmed the action is slowed and the power is lessened. How much is entirely dependent upon how much is trimmed and what blank you're trimming. Doesn't matter if it's trimmed at the butt or the tip. A lighter power rod will be more noticeable, a heavier rod not as much. If you're familiar with the common cents system, try this. If your not familiar with the system this wo
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Jon, I can't answer on the other forum from work so I'll give you a response here. Epoxy won't be the answer here but maybe something can be done with casting resin like the ice rod I did with the arrowhead inlaid in it. Give me a call and I'll help you out.
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