They are two different companies. Swifty Mfg makes the Diamonite and Gene Bullard makes Diamond II. Not sure if Swifty's is out of business or not but have not heard much from them lately.
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Does anyone have a source for the folding surf guides made by Fuji. I think that they may be discontinued.
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Thanks very much. I really appreciate your thoughts but the cpw foot control is the same as what you have. I want to upgrade to an electronic foot control. Again thanks.
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Thanks for the quick answers. I will look for those at Home Depot this weekend. Tom, I think that the torque is adequate for wrapping. Just wanted to make sure. The foot control leaves much to be desired. Looks like this may be the first thing to replace. Any suggestions?
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I just bought a used CPW rod wrapper with the chuck directly connected to the Dayton motor. I really like the way that the motor allows rotating the blank freely without any amount of resistance but I have a question about the power of the motor itself. I have never used this particular wrapper before so please bear with me if my question appears odd. I am not sure that the motor has enough to
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Yes, that will fix the tacky problem
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Thanks Tom. Colleen at @#$%& gave me the measurements. The measurements really come in handy when ordering the guides under the new concept method. Wonder why such a height measurement chart does not exist. BTW, the actual height was 45.7 mm for the 20 and 25.2mm for the 16.
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Thanks Tom. The reel is a size 8000 twinpower ( same as the Stella 8m). From the look of the photos of the guides, it appears that the 20 is substantially taller than the 16. I am trying to get away from the MNSG40 that this reel generally requires for the height. I thought that the surf guides might give me the extra height that I need. It appears that I need a guide that is about 2+ inches
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I am thinking of using a BLCAG20J Fuji guide for a stripper on a salt water spinning rod set up using the NCG method. Does anyone know the guide height from foot to top of the guide for the size 20 and 16 sizes? Also, what would be the longest lenght that I could use from the face of the spool to the stripper guide?
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Blank manufacturers will soon have to address the need for multi-piece blanks for travel. The airlines are squeezing us to a point of surcharges for long rod tubes. The Asian market has this covered as most of the fishermen over there have to travel extensively to get to the fishing. I have found a few available Asian blanks but they are expensive. I am now down to a 5.5ft tube for my offshore
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Those gold USG have been discontinued a long time now. The last time I needed some ( about 6-7 yrs ago ) to complete a set that I found on an @#$%& site alluded to above. I bought a few guides from Al Goldberg. He may still have some but I have not seen him post here in quite a while. I have his business card at home ( at work right now ) if you need it. Btw, those guides need special care in
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Tuna max are in short supply as they are running a 30% off promotion. I have built on three of their blanks and are very nice...The others that I have used are the phenix blanks. Oh yes, the trevallas are not highly regarded as a jigging rod. Much too soft and very over-rated in their line classes. More of an inshore rod.
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I have bought blanks from Ocean Tackle International that are butt joint and rated for 50# and 80# in an 7.5'. Also, Anglers Pro Shop had some Smith WRC80/P in an 8' butt joint blank but they have been out of stock for a while. Paul of JPR Custom Rods may have some of the OTI blanks in stock otherwise google Ocean Tackle International or 360tackle.com or JPR Custom Rods. Although they do not
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Sounds like you are going to add a section where the reel seat will be. Why not just put on a fuji ferruled reel seat and add a short section for the handle? That is unless your rod is already built and you wanted to add a section somewhere in between the handle and the first section?
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Your guides are already off so slipping on the foregrip is easy to do. Just use epoxy as a lubricant to slide it down from the tip. The rear grip is a bit harder. The first thing is to get an I.D. that is a bit smaller than the O.D. of the blank. I find it easier to butt another blank with the same or slightly smaller O.D. and use some masking tape to attach it butt to butt. Then slide the g
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Sounds like you want the reel seat off so that you can re-install the grips. Are you also trying to re-locate it to another position? Or are you going to replace that reel seat on this rod and save it for another rod. There are other ways to replace the grips without removal of the reel seat.
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Sadden to hear this. A big loss to everyone who build rods. Thanks for publishing his stories in the Magazine. Always looked forward to reading them. God Bless and our condolences to his family.
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Thanks. I need to check on my priorities. I do have my present wrapper that is reduction driven so I could continue to do my shaping on it.
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Thanks Doc. I dont build a lot of rods. Just for myself. About 20 or so per yr. I just sell off those that I no longer want or use. The set up that I have is on a reduction wheel so backing up would be impossible except that I have it running on DC with a reverse switch. All my rods I taper down the hypalon so I need a machine that will do that. This one comes with a dryer unit attached bu
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Thank you for the response. I will go with my first impression that I need the self centering chuck. I presently have a self made rod wrapper using the pac bay chuck and will continue to use it until a better deal comes my way.
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I am thinking about buying a custom powerwrap lathe. It is model H289-18R. It has the heavy duty chuck that uses three turn screws to secure the blank to the lathe. I would rather have one with the self centering chuck but the price on this one would save me a bundle (lightly used). How important is the self centering chuck and if I wanted to convert, is it possible to do?
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Phenix is under new ownership for about a year now. They just released a new line of blanks that they are importing from China with materials from Japan. Really nice blanks.
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Actually, unless the installer added some glue, the glue that is on the tape itself leaves very little residue.
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I was told that the bigger seat has thicker materials and better threads. Remember, this is a two piece reel seat that allows the butt section to be removed from the tip section. Sort of like the uni-butt concept.
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Oh, I understand. Thanks.
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Yes, that method would work too. It was suggested to me for extending a two piece 9 ft surf blank to make it a three piece 11 foot blank. I still have to contend with the top section though which would be even further up the blank to maintain the short 5.5 ft lenght and the action of the blank would change as well.
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Tom, the comparison that I was making is within the same manufacturer's products. This is a two piece reel seat that makes the rod break down into a butt section from the reel seat down and a locking ferrule from the reelseat to the tip. Only the size is different as they make three or four different sizes. Normally, I would use the smallest ID reelseat but I was told to use the largest becaus
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I was told that the Lakeland 2 piece aluminum reel seats #7166M-BG is the better reel seat to use on a 80# line class rod that I want to build as a two piece travel rod. This build will be for a travel jigging rod rated for 80# test line. I was told not to use the smaller 3166M-BG as the threads and wall thickness of the reel seat is smaller and would not stand up to the rigors of a 80# class r
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Thanks all. I'll give it a try on the next rod.
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Ok, I'll bite. Anyone care to elaborate further on how they manage more than one thread at a time. What tools are used to make the wrapping easier?
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