I did a Seeker Factory Tour last month and this is what they do. They still locate the spine and build their rods on spine. They acknowledged that it is not necessary or needed but they do it just in case it matters to one or more of their customers. Something to think about. Since it doesn't matter, I have always built on spine.
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Are you using the @#$%& acid rollers on this build? I have found that the transition guide placement is the hardest part of the build. It is hard to keep the line on the transition roller centered properly. When you do your testing, make sure that you move the line from one side of the reel to the other while stress testing to make sure that the line stays on the roller. If you use a regular
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That would rest entirely on what drag material you are speaking of and what type of grease are you going to use. When I use greased drags, it is generally made of carbon fiber ( carbotex) and the only grease that I use is Cal's grease. Shimano drag grease is also suitable but Cals is the best. I spread it on both sides sparingly and then wipe off the excess. Cals grease is sold by Cal Sheets.
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Corbinas do not grow big like they used to in So. California. 5 pounders used to be the biggest we got out of the SC surf but now they are more like a 1-1.5 pounders. Assuming that you are using mostly baits as they don't take artificials well. Most blanks used for steelhead fishing is good for corbinas in the surf. I would look at the Lamiglas or Rainshadow as both of these can be found local
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Sometimes change is good. I have done just that with a Shikari 8 ft and made it into a 7'6" rod and I like it a lot better. I do not like to take off the tip, though. Try choking up on the blank and give it a try before cutting.
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I would find out if the hand wrapper could be converted to a power wrapper at a later date.
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Assuming that you do not use an underwrap, then no epoxy on the blank between the two feet. But you do need to fill the tunnel under the guide feet so that no water gets underneat the guide. I am not sure if the two posters above answered your question. I am not even sure if I did... LOL
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I would tend to agree with Raymond. Here is one that is available on the web: and is a sponsor at the left.
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Hello Darrin. Thank you. This is exactly what I need. I will try the 27x guide placement tonight and see if the heights work.
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Hello Darrin. I have used the Virtus guides and they are indeed tough enough for the line size that I stated. However, I have only used them for conventional rods and not spinning. I will consider them but I was looking for a high frame design so that I can use a smaller ring size. I was hoping that with the use of titanium frames, one of these guides may be suitable but unfortunately they a
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Has anyone used these on a heavy spinning rod? I am thinking 80# class line. Are the frames up to it?
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To my belief, they are already out but it takes a while for the US manufacturers to catch on. I have already built several rods with this new technology and they are great. Strong and light but I do not know the specifics as far as the technical aspects. Just that it involves the use of new improved resins. I have heard the term Nano used and these blanks have been coming out of China and Ko
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Thanks guys. I will emphasize that weight savings go hand in hand with rod balance. These type of rods tend to be top heavy and any weight savings towards the tip end makes a big difference in the overall balance. The fish size is " up to " but the typical size fish caught is typically under 100 lbs.... lol. Good point on the connections. Very short top shots of around 5-6 ft in le
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I am building a 8.5 ft popping rod rated for 80# plus test line. This particular blank is extremely heavy action and is to be used for throwing poppers at tuna ( up to 200 lbs). It is being built as a spinning rod with the intention of mounting a 20,000 size Shimano Stella spinning reel. Weight and strenght are key issues in the build. While I normally would use the Fuji MNSG guides, these
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Click on Buy/Sell above and then click on For Sale to get the full list.
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If one was concerned with the placement of the spline, as long as the reel is still sitting on top of the spline, the placement of the guides would be immaterial as to being on top or on the bottom of the spline. The blank will still flex the same. Just another manner to come up with the same answers as all the above. I makes no difference.
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Carbon and prototypes are already out. I've heard that blanks and finish rods will be out this summer. These are not USA manufacturers, though.
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I have not used it but CUI makes a 2 pc 15 footer.
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Do a search and you will find a few postings. Out of production. 4 months ago I got one from Barry but it is black framed hardloy, not chrome. Here is one link. Do a search and see what you can find.
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Fuji MNSG are what I use.
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Perhaps Pac Bay's Duralite butt sleeves
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Where I fish, I don't think that I could stuff enough line into the butt to make it surface all the way to the top of the water...lol
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Cork Ring Clamps are for assembling Cork Rings. If you have the preformed cork then no need for the Clamp. What you need is a good reamer to ream out the hole in your cork to fit snugly onto the blank. If it is a snug fit, no clamping device will be needed to keep in place while the glue sets.
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Jason, I think that the gist of that standup rod article that you referred to in your first post is quite different than any ole rod that can be used while standing and fishing. I really refers to the west coast USA method of fishing the party boats for large tuna where you don't have the pleasure of a fighting chair and the boat is often on anchor or other fisherpersons are also on fish so the
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My idea of a standup rod is hardly fishing with 30# test line. How hard can you pull with 30? You did say spinning rod, right? Hardly a need for a gimble but if you think that you need a harness, then rod rings might be a good add on component. Since you are not casting, a 6 ft rod is fine. Your handle setup is fine as long as you feel the need for the tuff butt. Rail rod foregrip..... with
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Rainshadow 1387 is what some west coast Mexico surf casters recommend.
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Make that one less. Order placed.
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Thanks Barry. I emailed you back. Still looking for a source for these guides. Seems that a year or so ago, someone still had some for sale. I lost my bookmark for that site and wonder if anyone knows.
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Barry Thomas Sr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have one Mel, its a Fuji 40mm hardaloy- Thanks, interested in buying it. Is it a black frame? Please email me. melshimizu@hotmail.com
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How about using a hair dryer? I've had a similar problem when I did not close up the gap in the tunnel under the guide foot and moisture gets in there. Just let it dry up and then redo the epoxy in the tunnel and problem fixed.
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