If the ferrule fit is good and the blank is well built there is little risk of the male ferrule ovaling. The female ferrule will prevent this from happening. I like to keep it filled to keep dirt and grit from entering. If I lose the factory plug i squeeze some GOOP or 6000 into the tip of the male ferrule for approximately an inch. Stand it on male ferrule end on some plastic wrap and wait f
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Fred, Gutsy - but I like it. Herb
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IMO there is no way one can inject epoxy into the seat/arbor interface. It MAY last a few outings though. But if you really want to try - West System epoxy is the least viscus and they have syringes. Best is to remove lower grip and re-do the seat from scratch. If multi piece rod - may be better to remove fore grip. Herb
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For an 8wt I would go with 16, 12 (both ceramics) then 3's the rest of the way. Either snakes or s/f. But my choice would be REC Recoil s/f runners. Definitely an REC Recoil tip top with large ring. Herb
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Hi, I will be out of the country starting Aug 29 - P.M. - until Sept. 16th. If you don't get an answer to an email you know why. You can text me though at 561 866-2155 Regards, Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Rod Blanks
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Tom is correct re "if done right. Did you use hose clamps over plastic wrap while epoxy curing? Actually, after turning you should see no seam at all. If pre made grip you might see seam even with clamps because of slight deformation. Do it over with cork rings glued together. Then split it two. Then re glue using clamps. Then turn down to size. If one piece rod and you decide to
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Mike, What you really want to be concerned about is the "swing weight" of a rod - or "weight-in-the-hand". I am more familiar with CTS fly rod blanks - since that is my area of expertise - The swing weight (weight in the hand) of a 9'0" Affinity-X #10 is lower than a Sage 9'0" Xi3 #8. The absolute weight of the "X" is heavier than the Sage Xi3 - but
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Jeff, Of course I second Bill's choice of the CTS blank. Since CTS will produce any length, weight, # of pieces, and action you desire you have many choices. Since Bill is much more familiar with the type of fishing you will be doing I would defer to his suggestions. Regards, Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Rod Blanks
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The only time I do not use a scissor is when I have to cut a thread - generally metallic - coming out of the blank-end of the wrap. I use a fresh scalpel and just press it against the thread as close to the wrap as possible. The pressure of the scalpel against the blank pops the thread. Herb
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I don't use a blade of any sort. Start my pull through very early - cut my thread being pulled through very short with a sharp scissor - just a hint of tag-end showing. Putt thumb pressure at the tag-end location and pull through. This keps the tag end form being pulled too far into wrap. Tag end gets totally buried - no end to cut. Herb
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I think what Jason is speaking of is the old concept that a tight ferrule wrap will snug-down the female to the male making them fit differently than before wrapping. I haven't heard that discussed in years. So - no - I don't think it matters what you do. I always wrap with the ferrule area hanging off the end of one of my supports. No biggie. But put them together, snug or loose, if you wish
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Easy - you said it - CTS. I just ordered a customer a 5pc CTS Vaper-Trail Spinning blank. Why do you say it has to be a Revo?? They will do anything you wish - to a point. Regards, Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Rod Blanks
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With acrylic PAINT really, I just cover with thread finish directly on the inscription. Does not smear. Herb
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I'm with R. Ruwe, Just grind off the grip and start over. This is not that unusual. Herb
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Why I "polish" - buff really - my guide feet. Because I use size "00" thread for my running guides on all my fly rods. If the feet are not as smooth as possible it frays the thread while being packed. Herb
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The absolute best method to attach guides is to use elastic beading thread. Comes in .5mm to 1mm. Get the .5mm in craft stores like Michaels and Joannes. Hold the guide in place and wrap the thad under tension. Then finish with two overhand knots. You can move guides to align. You can even cast. I don't like a machine to grind feet. Have a Dremel with a foot peddle to adjust speed. Never
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Info is good above. BTW - a fly rod only has one stripping guide. The other two-footed guides are just that - two-footed guides. Also - that rod is a Spey rod not a Switch rod. Your rod has a regressive action. A proper switch rod is more progressive. herb
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I bought my first CTS from Andy. He disappeared. Do you know where he is?? Herb
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Ellis, You are welcome - anytime. What weight rods do you have in the "S" and "Maxim"? Herb
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Ellis, The "S" blank was the original "Saltwater" CTS blank. The "X" became its replacement. The first "X" after the "S" was a little more refined than the "S". But is was made from the same material. The biggest change in refinement took place a couple of years ago when CTS went with its current material that is a low-resin materia
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David, CTS will build a blank on their, now discontinued, Maxim taper which would fit your bill. But you don't state the rod weight you want. Herb
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Winston, I have been looking but to no avail. What do you use it on?? I bought some black "00" silk. Not really good for my purposes - saltwater fly rods. Herb
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I am adding the following CTS demo blanks/rods for the steelhead guys: Affinity-X, 9'6", #7 Affinity-MX, 9'6", #8. Of course a security deposit is required. Regards, Herb
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CTS. 6'6" in either "X" fast, "MX moderate fast, "Vintage" cane like, "Quartz" fiberglass ("S" glass). Contact me if interested. Regards, Herb
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Bill F, Your email is hidden. Please email me at hladen@hotmail.com so we can "talk". Herb
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Tom, I sent you an email. Herb
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Tom, I did not build/finish mine. The builder was very accomplished - but I do not know what the final finish was. When you are in the surf up to your waist and very wet you cannot relax your grip on the rod. Maybe in more benign conditions I would change my mind. As I said - when wet with fresh (tap) water they got "grippy". But were unstable in saltwater. I tried very hard to l
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Tom, I did not build/finish mine. The builder was very accomplished - but I do not know what the final finish was. When you are in the surf up to your waist and very wet you cannot relax your grip on the rod. Maybe in more benign conditions I would change my mind. As I said - when wet with fresh (tap) water they got "grippy". But were unstable in saltwater. I tried very hard to l
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Grips, in general, dampen the rod's ability to flex. If the blank wants to load into the grip area I use a shorter grip. Sometimes 6.75 even on a #10 saltwater rod. I found that the need to move your hand up or down the grip is way overrated. My older grips were 7.25-7.5" to give me that ability. The reel weight has too much effect on your swing when the distance increases between the r
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Order placed - looks like delivery from NZ will be 1st-2nd week of August. Thanks, Herb
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