Order placed - looks like delivery from NZ will be 1st-2nd week of August. Thanks, Herb
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Hi guys, I just returned form 5 weeks on Cape Cod fly fishing for Stripers. I am placing my first FLY ROD BLANK order with CTS since I left for the Cape. Please email me if you need anything in the way of CTS Fly Blanks - or - have any questions. BTW - I have developed two "one-off" #10's that I used almost exclusively on the Cape. One is 8'6" and the other is 8"9&qu
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I would forget the tamer unless you find that you need it. Most of my rods do not. If you are going with #5 or 6 runners I assume that they are ceramic. I think ceramic are much too heavy for a fly rod of any weight - certainly #11 and below. You are going to rob the rod of performance. I would use #3 REC Recoil runners. So - a stripper of max #16, #10 DF then # 3's all the way. With a
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If the blank has a gloss finish you may be able to "worry" it off with your fingernail or a sharp edge of Lucite. Sanding is going to damage the finish. If you do sand and just scuff the paint - but do not go down to the graphite - you can polish the finish back to gloss with "Santa Fe Jewelers Supply 3M Micron Polishing Paper". Stock # 321529. It is a kit that has polish
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Cam, Up until I started building rods for a well know fly fishing celebrity - just about 9 months ago - all of my rods were built with REC s/f recoils to save weight. This gentleman is convinced that snakes provide for better shooting. So does senior Sage designer - Jerry Siem, I do know that snakes, size-for-size, have 15-18% more clearance due to the "side-door" effect. So
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Kyle, I agree with Roger. You say it is rod finish. if it I finish applied on the blank - then wipe off with a solvent. If it is thread finish that is not curing - you will have to remove all wraps and do it over. The bad finish has impregnated the threads and is in the tunnels, around and under the guide feet. No amount of flushing with solvent will remove this epoxy. The guides wil
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Agree with Terry, Phil and Thomas. Can't see the point. Sometimes you can't improve on REC Recoil s/f or d/f guides for the runners. Use ceramics for the stripper and second. Herb
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No thread finish. Some are just clear-coated. Some are just painted gloss (or matt) - usually auto paint. Some - like Sage are painted and then clear-coated. All this "stuff" weighs something and detracts from performance in a light blank - as in fly rod or ultra lights. That is why all my fly rod builds are with unfinished blanks (CTS - of course). Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Blanks
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Josh, How many pieces is the blank? herb
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CTS has white blanks Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Blanks
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There will be many who disagree - but you are taking a chance that the blank will fail at the forward end of the grip due to the creation of a "hard-spot" there at the end of the grip. This is more a blank loads into the butt - the more chance that this is a risk. Herb
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Roger, A size 6 REC Recoil is much too large for a #8. I use size 5's on my 12'(+) beach rods in the 11-12 wt category. I use #4's on a #9 and #10 single-hand rod. Since the BVK most likely end-up being overlined a #4 is more than enough. Of course - this is only my opinion. Herb
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Fred, First of all a #8 RIO Redfish is really a #8.5. So already you are close to a #9. Typically the BVK has to be overlined to get any kind of performance out of it. I find the tip quite soft and to load the rod down deep you will have to load it better - therefore more grains. Sometimes you may find it necessary to go with a #9 line. So I would use a min. of a #3 REC Recoil s/f FLY GUIDE
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Bill, Gatti uses auto finish (they say - at least) and I have dulled the finish with too heavy an application of alcohol. I hate refinishing painted rods. Herb
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Some swear by 1 pc. I know a person who will not fish anythin besides a 3pc - to keep the ferrule away from the middle of the rod. Others like a 2pc. I have found that the 4pc is my favorite - and I have too many fly rods to count. I like it on all counts - shipping, breaking in two for my rod rack, fits in car trunk in 2pcs., like the performance. I find the 3pc much less accomodating. H
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Tom, I built a rod for a 5yr old and got my blank from Dan Craft for $20. Is was a sweet blank - 2pc. As you get into the lower weights the difference between the expensive stuff and the other dims. I only build on CTS blanks - but for something like that I would give dan a call. He had a number of these blanks in the corner. They are not his FT blanks - but suitable. I specified a #6 but
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The best filler paste I have ever used is Roddancer Pit Paste. Got it from Git Bit Outdorrs - on left list. I let it dry and sand. It also works with wet sponge but much more control with sanding when dry. Regards, Herb
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The way to get rid of fish eyes: First you have to keep on top of it and inspect the finish as it cures. Most happen on the 2nd-3rd coat. Not the first. Unless you are really sloppy. When you see one developing take your applicator - brush, spatula, whatever - and 'scrub" the area which breaks-up the substance that caused it. Neaten it out and you are fine. Herb
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CTS is moving their new factory in New Zealand. Orders will be delayed by about two weeks. I have a bulk fly blank order in with them now that I can add to without difficulty at this time if anyone needs/wants a fly blank. Target delivery date is May 3rd. My email here is hladen@hotmail.com - or - h&
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Harry,Take a look at the CTS online info - or my website under "products" regards, Herb
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Jay, Thanks. Larry, I have an order in with CTS now and they will add to it since there is a delay due to them moving to a new factory. Let me know what you want. I will also email you. Regards, Herb
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What Bill said. Herb
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#16 stripper. If you can get the discontinued Fuji TSVSG would be the best. #3 runners on the #8 - #4 on the #9 ifyou are going with s/f guides. If snakes - #3 on both. Would use REC Recoils and also their tip-top for lightness. Herb
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Jon, I would be happy to help you with CTS blanks now - or in the future. I am a sponsor on the left side of this site. Yes - they are relatively expensive - but nothing compares. Delivery time is 4-6 weeks from the factory which will build you any length, line weight you wish. A #3 switch rod is not a problem. I am having a 12'3", #2 two-handed blank build as we speak. BTW - it
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If you are not too familiar with fly rod construction make sure that you specify certain things to guarantee lightness and good performance: 1. Rigid foam as a reel seat arbor (bushing). Absolutely not masking tape. Dry-wall tape is just an O.K. compromise. 2. Thin application of thread finish on thread wraps. just enough to cover threads. No "football" shaped wraps. 3. Lightest
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Hint for guide spacing. First all above correct - use static test ONLY. But don't use guides. They will mar rod's finish when moved. And it is a PITA to constantly re-tape in position. Even surgical tubing is a pain. I use neoprene "O" rings slid over the blank. Thread the line through the rings. The rings will move freely w/o marring finish and friction will keep them in
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Do it all the time on fly rods where thumb destroys cork. remove old cork by filing or cutting along glue line. I turn mine on a lathe for a more accurate job. Important: If you take out 3 rings - glue 3 new rings together. Do not try to glue 3 separate rings in place!! Clamp by using 1/4" threaded rod (well waxed) with fender washers (well waxed) on both ends. tension with wing nuts
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I am placing a Fly-Blank order with CTS this week. Contact me if anyone wishes to "piggy-back" (for no charge) on my shipping costs. Order takes approx. a month to arrive here. Herb U.S. Distb. CTS Fly Blanks.
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I am the U.S. Distributer for CTS Fly Blanks
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Check out the CTS Scandi blanks: herb U.S Distrib. CTS Blanks.
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