Dave, As I said on your first post. I use the RSLL seat a lot - why not just ask me??? That is what this site is all about - people helping each other You will need a .93 port to accept the RSLL hood. If you share your email with me I will send some pix of how I do it. Bottom line - get the grip with 1/4" bore. NO NOT REAM IT !!!! First port the seat using the tools I will show
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Don, I would caution about going automatically to a tamer - unless you are having problems with line wrapping around blank between stripper guide and next guide. Why add weight if not necessary. I have removed all tamer guides from my personal rods. Herbn
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Dave, I use the REC RSLL seat often. The Flex Coat #16X3 arbor fits perfectly. You may have to spiral wrap some Size D thread to make the fit snug. Herb
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Dave, There is always a gap between seat and blank. Best not to use tape - but a rigid foam arbor. You are risking that the tape will degrade over time and the seat will become loose. What seat are you using? The inside diameter?? herb
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But of course - CTS. Seriously though - arguably the best. I can send you some demos. I don't know about the bank though. Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Blanks.
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The "reach-thing" makes no sense because if the cast is done properly he line will be snug to the reel. Easy to grasp. Like Tom says - 32". My starting roint is 31-33" from butt and 4.25" from the tip. herb
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Chad, Re-read your post and you gave me an idea to alter way I tie in the MT. Leave a tag end that I can manipulate - as you say- perpendicular to blank - and proceed with wrap until trim wrap is complete. BUT I will leave a gap at the point where I introduce the MT so my scalpel will be able to fit and not damage the wrap. I will then close it by packing as usual. Thanks Chad. Herb
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J.B,. just Googled it - you are correct. Thanks Herb
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Chad, Thanks. My procedure for burying the metallic trim (MT) is that I tuck the very end of the MT under one (1) wrap of main wrap about 2-3mm before I want trim to show. After the 2-3mm of wrap over the MT I begin my trim wrap and that is where the core shows itself. Just as you say. If I loosen the main wraps the MT will just pull out under slight pressure. I think what you are suggest
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Hey guys thanks for replies. MG - Thanks. I figured twisting would do it. Guess I have to keep track of which end I insert under main wrap so I know which way to twist. Bill B.- Just a single or double trim wrap with only 6-8" in hand. I use a rubber tipped, (slightly) weighted spring-clamp to weigh it down. M.G. - that is exactly where it is unlaying. Drives me crazy. Bill.
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Phil, Never use them. Only use magnetic type. Herb
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Hi, Anyone have an (almost) foolproof way to keep metallic thread from unlaying when turned onto a wrap. It seems that the first wrap unlays at the starting point. Do you tighten the twist before wrapping? Herb
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long fly rods can handle huge grain windows. My friend puts 350gr on a 12'0" #10 switch rod that I put up to 550gr. Some like to cast off the tip and mid-section. Others like to cast on the butt. However at one point the rod will run out of guts and more grains will degrade performance. You have to experiment. Herb
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For a #9 rod I use a REC RSLL which has an IO of about 15.9mm 11mm is kind of skimpy. Herb
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Laurant, Let me tell you a little story that sold me on REC Recoil Tip-Tops and their stuff generally. I owned a Winston 9'0" BIix #8 with REC Recoil guides and tip-top. The grip fell apart after two seasons. Sent it back to Winston for replacement. When I received rod back it felt entirely different. Not as responsive - overloaded with line I usually used. Called them on it claim
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I only use REC Recoil guides for runners on my personal rods - both S/F and snakes. But Chico Fernandez will not own a rod with S/F guides and Jerry Siem (Sage head designer) is convinced that snakes shoot line better. But Steve Rajeff designed all his rods with S/F guides. So choose sides or do what you wish. Herb
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Ron, You definitely DO NOT want to use ceramic guides on any fly rod - especially a #5. You will rob it of any liveliness the blank had. Use s/f REC Recoils and - most important - REC Recoil tip-top with small ring. Use #2 REC s/f running guides and a #12 stripper. Put as little thread epoxy as possible. What kind of reel seat will you be using? Herb
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I don't know John Cates - nor that he makes the Flexcoat Cork Lathe. But I think that it is the best tool to turn cork grips right on the blank. I have used the same lathe for past 8 years. I did choose to change the "O" rings once in that time. IMO it pays to just pay the $180 for the lathe as-is. Just add a 2500RPM corded drill and you are set to go. Herb
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Chad, Cutting arbor is easiest part of job. Put pencil marks where you want to cut arbor. Insert arbor into reel seat. Poke it out of seat until pencil mark just showing out of seat. Place serrated knife on mark and "roll" arbor inside seat using edge of seat as guide for knife. Just score the arbor - don't cut it through. Then snap it off at score using edge of seat as leverage
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I do it entirely different: I only build fly rods. I epoxy the arbor, seat and cork grip and fighting butt - in that order - directly onto the blank. Then it is turned in the lathe as one. So it is important that everything is concentric to the blank. It is best to cut the arbor into 4 pieces - ream and fit each piece separately. Then epoxy the 4 pieces onto the blank. When the epoxy cures
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There is probably some machine somewhere that can measure stimuli input and output - but feel is a good word Herb
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Hi, I am entering a bulk order with CTS this week. There is a window closing Friday, October 18th where anyone here can piggy-back on my shipping charges from New Zealand. Orders take from 5-8 weeks to be manufactured and shipped to the U.S. Look for prices on my web-site: hnlcustomflyrods.com for all inclusive pricing (except actual shipping from me to you). Or - contact me - h
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J.B. That is a good idea. So you get a large diameter "O" ring that approximates the i.o. of the male ferrule? The large diameter would minimize the curve of the "O" ring. Do you slip it in from the female side - or - "force" it in from the male side? that would cut down the curing time of the "Goop" I use. Herb
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If the ferrule fit is good and the blank is well built there is little risk of the male ferrule ovaling. The female ferrule will prevent this from happening. I like to keep it filled to keep dirt and grit from entering. If I lose the factory plug i squeeze some GOOP or 6000 into the tip of the male ferrule for approximately an inch. Stand it on male ferrule end on some plastic wrap and wait f
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Fred, Gutsy - but I like it. Herb
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IMO there is no way one can inject epoxy into the seat/arbor interface. It MAY last a few outings though. But if you really want to try - West System epoxy is the least viscus and they have syringes. Best is to remove lower grip and re-do the seat from scratch. If multi piece rod - may be better to remove fore grip. Herb
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For an 8wt I would go with 16, 12 (both ceramics) then 3's the rest of the way. Either snakes or s/f. But my choice would be REC Recoil s/f runners. Definitely an REC Recoil tip top with large ring. Herb
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Hi, I will be out of the country starting Aug 29 - P.M. - until Sept. 16th. If you don't get an answer to an email you know why. You can text me though at 561 866-2155 Regards, Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Rod Blanks
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Tom is correct re "if done right. Did you use hose clamps over plastic wrap while epoxy curing? Actually, after turning you should see no seam at all. If pre made grip you might see seam even with clamps because of slight deformation. Do it over with cork rings glued together. Then split it two. Then re glue using clamps. Then turn down to size. If one piece rod and you decide to
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Mike, What you really want to be concerned about is the "swing weight" of a rod - or "weight-in-the-hand". I am more familiar with CTS fly rod blanks - since that is my area of expertise - The swing weight (weight in the hand) of a 9'0" Affinity-X #10 is lower than a Sage 9'0" Xi3 #8. The absolute weight of the "X" is heavier than the Sage Xi3 - but
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