The way to get rid of fish eyes: First you have to keep on top of it and inspect the finish as it cures. Most happen on the 2nd-3rd coat. Not the first. Unless you are really sloppy. When you see one developing take your applicator - brush, spatula, whatever - and 'scrub" the area which breaks-up the substance that caused it. Neaten it out and you are fine. Herb
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CTS is moving their new factory in New Zealand. Orders will be delayed by about two weeks. I have a bulk fly blank order in with them now that I can add to without difficulty at this time if anyone needs/wants a fly blank. Target delivery date is May 3rd. My email here is hladen@hotmail.com - or - h&
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Harry,Take a look at the CTS online info - or my website under "products" regards, Herb
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Jay, Thanks. Larry, I have an order in with CTS now and they will add to it since there is a delay due to them moving to a new factory. Let me know what you want. I will also email you. Regards, Herb
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What Bill said. Herb
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#16 stripper. If you can get the discontinued Fuji TSVSG would be the best. #3 runners on the #8 - #4 on the #9 ifyou are going with s/f guides. If snakes - #3 on both. Would use REC Recoils and also their tip-top for lightness. Herb
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Jon, I would be happy to help you with CTS blanks now - or in the future. I am a sponsor on the left side of this site. Yes - they are relatively expensive - but nothing compares. Delivery time is 4-6 weeks from the factory which will build you any length, line weight you wish. A #3 switch rod is not a problem. I am having a 12'3", #2 two-handed blank build as we speak. BTW - it
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If you are not too familiar with fly rod construction make sure that you specify certain things to guarantee lightness and good performance: 1. Rigid foam as a reel seat arbor (bushing). Absolutely not masking tape. Dry-wall tape is just an O.K. compromise. 2. Thin application of thread finish on thread wraps. just enough to cover threads. No "football" shaped wraps. 3. Lightest
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Hint for guide spacing. First all above correct - use static test ONLY. But don't use guides. They will mar rod's finish when moved. And it is a PITA to constantly re-tape in position. Even surgical tubing is a pain. I use neoprene "O" rings slid over the blank. Thread the line through the rings. The rings will move freely w/o marring finish and friction will keep them in
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Do it all the time on fly rods where thumb destroys cork. remove old cork by filing or cutting along glue line. I turn mine on a lathe for a more accurate job. Important: If you take out 3 rings - glue 3 new rings together. Do not try to glue 3 separate rings in place!! Clamp by using 1/4" threaded rod (well waxed) with fender washers (well waxed) on both ends. tension with wing nuts
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I am placing a Fly-Blank order with CTS this week. Contact me if anyone wishes to "piggy-back" (for no charge) on my shipping costs. Order takes approx. a month to arrive here. Herb U.S. Distb. CTS Fly Blanks.
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I am the U.S. Distributer for CTS Fly Blanks
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Check out the CTS Scandi blanks: herb U.S Distrib. CTS Blanks.
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One of my clients ordered a custom CTS blank - 8'9" #3 that was the fastes blank I ever wiggled. I am sure that the formula would translete down to a 6' blank. I was $215 for a 4 pc blank. I would be less for 6' and less for a 3pc blank. Let me know if interested. Herb U.S. Dist. cTS Fly Blanks
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Michael, Hi. The Ft's were one of the first blanks I started to build on. They can be sweet - I liked the #7 as a #9 fly rod. Never "wiggled" the #4 so maybe I can't be too helpful. Except that CTS' #7 Affinity-X is VERY similar to the FT #7 - they can both handle a #9 line well. While that relationshp may not translate down the line from #7 to #4 - they might. Also, one of
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Over the next few days I am going to post info on my site for custom CTS Beach Rods in primarily in the 12'-12'9" range. Can be longer but greater length really not needed with this blank. Regards, Herb
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Steve, Please unlock your email. Thanks, Herb
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Teaque, Thanks for the welcome. Re stocking. Stephen Pratt of CTS "tweaks" his blank tapers/designs relatively often during the year. Consequenly I do not stock many blanks because I only wish to provide the most up-to-date taper/design to my customers. I order from the factory in New Zealand frequently but it still takes about a month to receive blanks. I generally have enough bl
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You might wish to consider a blank out of the CTS custom program. I currently have an order pending which would save you the $50 NZ shipping bill. Herb Note: I am an agent for CTS.
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Have been experimenting lately with # and size of guides on a #10 fly rod. Used 9 or 10 guides and #5-#3 on a 10wt 9' fly rod. Can see no difference in casting. Settled on 9 guides and a size 4 for a #10 fly rod. But don't agree with extra large guides on a fly rod. Knots pass too easily and will get caught in tip section. Much prefer to be able to reach knot/tangle closer to the stripp
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Just looks. And it turns more white than amber. The epoxy you buy in the hardware store is a polyester ana that turns amber. Tom, We HAVE to be talking about two different finishes. You would never use West System of any sort to coat threads. Unless you did so as an experiment. Two gallons!!!! My first car didn't cost as much as two gallons of the 207 special. Herb
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I had three custom fly rods made (pre-rodbuilder phase) with Struble titanium reel seats. I wouldn't do it again. They "eat" aluminum reel feet. Herb
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I have been using West System (no relation to West Marine - although one can buy it there) for over 35 yrs. for various high stress applications - on my boats to bond hardware, to making compression sleeves in side foam cored decks - to hurricane shutter installation in FL. The stuff is wonderful. I use it now in fly rod grips and attaching arbors and seats. Let's not forget though that West
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My REC fly reel seat hoods are .93". So I took a 15/16"th hole saw and ground off part of the outside off-set teeth. It makes a much cleaner cut than "the cutter". I then use a 3/4" and then a 1/2" hole saw to cut the hole bigger. Reamer takes care of the rest. Herb
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I predict that if you use PG vs two-part finishes it will not take you long to abandon the PG. makes for a lousy looking wrap - unless applied thick with many coats the threads are not protected from abraision well at all. And - if you do apply it thick it will not be smooth and flat - rather it will be wavy. Just my $.02 Speaking from experience. Re wrapped all my PG wraps. Or at least coa
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Hi, I created a furor here a couple of years ago by my method. I will do it again now at great risk to myself. :-)) My method and I have been doing it for many years with different finishes. Currently Threadmaster Hi build. Mix a total of 5-6 cc's of finish for 3-4 min. I have prepared 3 small "trays" of aluminum foil. I pour a nickle sized amount in one tray and a quarter
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Casey, Assuming that you have a thread bobbin tensioner - For the two blocking wraps just push the thread to the side with your burnishing tool - or some other thin smooth tool - keeping tension with rotation of blank and tool. For the three locking wraps treat the beginning like a blocking wrap - but loop thread around tool (keeping tension with the tool) and swing the loop around the guide
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Send me your email address. Herb
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Same model - same action. At least that is what the manufacturer shoots for. Only difference is that the #4 will be able to handle a heavier line - of course. Herb
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Maryann, Sorry for butting in here but this is a bit of a pet peeve that I have. The term "switch rod" was, and should be, meant to describe a rod that is designed to be casted either overhead (OH) or anchor-point (Spey). While a light TH rod can certainly be casted with one hand - why in the world would you wish to. One of the reasons to use a TH rod is to use two hands to make lif
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