Thanks Spencer, that seems exactly what I'm after!
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Mark Fisher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have had a few dealings with Kate and Siskiyou > Aviaries over a few years now and do not believe > you can have better customers service. They really > are outstanding. Even all the way to Australia. > > Regards > Mark > Outback Rods I was going to ask if they ship to Australia, bu
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Hi Spencer, Yes, they were one of the first I was looking at and the Salt Affinity S was the exact blank I was looking at also. Unfortunately they too are pretty expensive. I'm thinking at this stage I'm going to simply buy two of the same blank and make my own ferrules (it'll cost me only around $100 AUD to get a 3 piece blank in the configuration that I want rather than the $3-400+ AUD for
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Thanks for the replies guys. Peter, I think an 8 weight would be too light for what I'm after (according to the general fly line weight/16 equation anyway). Spencer, that article describes exactly what I'm after, except that in it, he states that the blank was custom made for him by GUSA, and theiroff the shelf blanks already cost a fortune, I'd hate to see how much that one off would cost
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G'Day, I'm after (as the subject states) a 3 (or 4 piece) 9 to 10 ft spinning blank. I added fly blank simply because there aren't many 3 or more piece spinning blanks around. I'll be primarily using it in the surf for Tailor (I think you guys call them Bluefish) and possible Jewfish (Mulloway - I'm not sure what this fish is called in the states). The lures that I will typically be usi
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"You know you're a rodbuilder when".... you read fishing magazines, you check out the type of rod, the guides, the butt wrap and the guide wraps in a photo before actually looking at the articles or the rest of the photo.
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Yeh, you also need to do what Fred mentioned as its a real pain in the backside trying to suck out resin (it seems to be the resin most of the time for me) with large air bubbles stuffing up the resin/hardener ratio.
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Put a hole into the tops of the caps covering the resin/hardener bottles, small enough for the tip of the syringe to jam in tightly. Put your syringe tip into the hole and invert the bottle to suck out as much resin/hardener as you like. When done (wipe the tip with denatured alcohol and) put the syringe back into the hole and leave it there (it will be airtight).
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I have a feeling someone told you about it, but used the wrong terminolgy. I've seen where people use a bit of sandpaper or a triangular file to add concentric V cuts into the grips (I've only seen it used on EVA), but this is only for decoration rather than function.
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To be honest, I think the metallics will be absolutely fine (with the usual caveats such as CP may be needed etc). I was just looking at the Sulky metallics on Mudhole, and apart from the words Sulky printed at the top, the Gutermann thread (and spool etc) looks identical to the Sulky thread. I'm hoping the normal polyester thread will turn out ok but I don't really want to experiment using t
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I did a search of this particular brand and there weren't many threads about this thread (pun intended). (http://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,172040,172106) The reason I looked into this was because of its availability where I live and it was 100% polyester (Gutermann Sew-All thread) and they also have metallics. One thing about the metallics is that apparently Sulky and Gutermann have c
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It seems I don't really need to add the epoxy layer first but I think I'll add a really tight tie off and then add a thin coat of epoxy anyway as I would have to anyway. Billy, It took a long time to do because of a number of factors. Firstly, it was the first ever butt wrap that I've done (I used to add a nice binding in the same colour scheme as my guides), and I didn't have any instruction
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Hi guys, I'm currently finishing my first butt wrap (fish wrap - 30 hours!) on my rod and I have a question. I know lots of people say to use CP to lock in the threads before cutting off the masking tape. However in my design, I've used NCP black, metallic silver, metallic gold and metallic blue. So my thread choice doesn't actually need any CP and I'd prefer not to use it if possible.
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Brian, Firstly, did the guy just ask for the leather grip, without agreeing on a price first? Secondly, what's the cost of all the materials? What's your hourly rate? How long did it take you to install the grip? Surely that should give you a rough price to begin with (unless that $40 is that price? - and in that case, it seems pretty cheap to be honest).
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We still tend to use longer rods (12-14ft) for surf fishing in Australia because of two factors (in my opinion), one large waves and the need to cast past them and/or to keep the line out of the breakers, and the use of alvey reels (where the butt grip length is around 6" only), so the weight of the reel right towards the back of the rod balances it out, so the longer rod isn't as much as a
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Tom, I thought being a beginner I thought it was wrong to use my thumbnail, but so far nothing has come close to it! It's good seeing a pro recommend it too! You don't need really long nails either, and it packs without causing fuzzies or any other issues I've had with metallic or plastic implements.
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I forgot to add, you can get it from one of the sponsors on the left - The Rod Works (Australian company) -
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I know of one Australian manufacturer making 3 piece surf blanks (I am currently building one myself), except they are just over 12 feet in length, not the 15' that you require, but I thought I'd let you know in case you can't find anything else. The company is Pacific Composites and the blank mode is the Braid Buster BSU 365-7W-3 (I'm using the 4 wrap version as I don't need anything that hea
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Thanks for that Tom, I will have to send them an email after getting proper measurements (I always forget about asking the manufacturer about things like this!).
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Hi Guys, I have another quick question for you. I recently purchased a Loomis S842-2 IMX spinning blank and I noticed that the male half of the ferrule only goes in about an inch into the female half. Is that the usual amount or is that adequate? Most of my other rods have always been around two inches or more. The rod came in the proper G. Loomis plastic bag with the proper logo etc
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I've used 5 minute Araldite epoxy for reel seats, butt caps and tips for all my rods and have never had any sort of failures at all. My dad has been using 5 minute for over 20 years with a variety of rods and its never failed. Keep in mind that we don't build any standup game fishing rods, but we do build surf rods that cop a hammering on the beach and rocks. Tom K has mentioned several time
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Let us know how it goes Joe (with pics preferably) as I'm looking at doing a dark coloured tartan (for an Irish clan tartan - my last name).
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Thanks for the reassurance guys. Just another query in regards to the tight packing required on the black thread. Has anyone ever "cheated" and actually spray painted (or colour in some other method) the metallic threads that will ultimately get hidden by the black thread? I know there is still a place to pack tightly, but I would think that if the metallics weren't that notica
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Please see my last message posted under this thread: I didn't realise that the thread I replied to wouldn't be bought back to the first page, so I've had to create this new thread.
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Sorry to bring up this old thread from the dead, but its totally relevant to what I'm planning on doing. I'm going to do a butt wrap with a Fish pattern. The actual fish will be silver metallic and blue metallic. The rest of the threads will be normal (not NCP) black in D size (due to the size of the blank and the amount of wraps I'd have to do otherwise). So from the posts above, this shou
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That's what I'm after! Thanks Michael. I realised why I didn't find that one when searching. The keywords you used wasn't what I thought they would be. I guess its hard to add keywords to something like that.
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Thanks for the replies guys. Jim, that's what I'm also doing at the moment. However, the trim at the ends and the middle of the wraps is fully open in that the thread that wraps the guide on doesn't hide the joins. Cliff, yep searched the photo site first before starting this thread. But as it appears to be mostly a showcase type thing, people always put the best presentation side to t
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Hi, I normally put rather simple trim bands of around 4-6 threads of metallic onto the end of the wraps, and the rest of the wrap is a single colour. This is rather simple and for my newest rod, I thought I'd try something a lot more complex. The new design I have involves 3 colours (2 metallics and a single colour). The colours change at rather short intervals (from 1 single thread inlay t
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Most manufacturers will void the warranty if you change the finish in any way.
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Thanks for the replies guys. So Mick, when you say you knock down the edges, I assume you simply sand them a little? Is it fine to do this? To be honest, I'm a bit dissappointed that the blank manufacturer didn't really clean up the edges that well. My other blanks I've used had always been properly smoothed.
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