Make another chevron pointing in the opposite direction as your first. The first thread on the second chevron will be next to the very first thread you wrapped in the first chevron, pointing in the opposite direction.
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Great blanks and price. Fibergalss construction is nearly unbreakable but is also heavy.
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Tom, I just awnsered your e-mail but for Josh (or anyone else) it is Gudebrod 221 NCP and 246 NCP, but I can't take credit for it as I looked up this pic from Bill Stevens, who is probably still upset from being forced to wrap Orange and Blue on a rod.
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I used the Gudebrod Orange NCP and it matches perfectly
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A Doc Ski weaving robot
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Yep, I coated an entire Gator Glass blank once. A couple months later the finish began cracking and flacking off.
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This guy does it almost exclusively. Looks good, but I imagine adds a lot of weight to the blank
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Here's one holding the rod upside down (I wanted to show the offset on my first 180 guide)
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I'm with Phil, CLB 704. Rohit, they are very similar to Spanish only bigger and taste worse
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Weave Crosswrap
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I think you have weaving mixed up with cross wrapping. A cross wrap is typically referred to as a "butt wrap". Weaving is a completely different animal.
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Denis, thanks for taking the time writing that post. I've reread about 10 times now and am still unclear on this statement "most of the power transmission is taking place in a smaller section of the rod closer to the fisher in a fast taper blank". I would think that the "power of transmission" would be closer to the angler in a slow action blank because the effective length of
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Kevin, as soon as they open a season on them I will.
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How does it harness the power of the rod? I'm not doubting you just trying to better understand. It was my understanding that a slower action rod would better harness the power of the rod as the shutoff point is lower on the rod and the majority of the pressure from the fish would be on a thicker segment of the rod as compared to a fast action rod where the rod tip would be subject to the greates
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It's unclear to me how a fast taper gives the angler more leverage? I understand the short rod taking away a leverage advantage to the fish and the advantage of the bent butt, but why the fast taper?
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Why would I "Bin" anything without a fast taper? I build a lot of grouper rods just never anything this heavy and moderate actions are typically preffered.
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I guess it is a saltwater thang. The Ugly sticks make great live bait trolling rods for Kingfish. The solid tip is soft enough to make a natural presentation while slow trolling live baits and creates a shock absorber for initial runs but has enough back bone to stop even the biggest kings. Plus that commercial of the woman trying to stop the husband from going fishing is pretty funny.
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I think I need some clarification. The only Bin I've heard of is a terrorist. Is Bin good or bad?
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Thanks for your help Sean
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He didn't know what type of rod it was. I thought it was a Gator because it was unfinished and looks like a Gator. I think the rod he is currently using was cut from the tip because the tip size is HUGE. But it takes a lot to put even a slight bend in the rod. HE wants the rod to be able to adequatly load rather than just putting a small flex in the rod.
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He was trying to get it out of the holder, just couldn't because of the stress. Have you built that GG before. I'm thinking if I cut over a foot off the tip it will end up being the same as his current rod with no action. If I trim it off the butt it might not have enough "backbone" to hold up to these fish.
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I have a friend that wants a "Goliath" Grouper rod. He recently bought what looks to be a rod built on a Gator Glass Gaff stick, no action what so ever, the equivalent of fishing with a telephone pole. He hooked one from the rod holder the other day that he had to cut the line because the fiberglass was flexing so much around the rod holder that it was going to break the gunnel off the
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No Cp and a lighter color thread will turn transparent
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This will tell you the diameters for each guide size
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For a 30lb. rod I would think those (2 & 3) would be to big for the tip section. The lightweight guides have a concave foot that must be matched to the diameter of the blank. Plus an underwrap must be used and also factored into the diameter of the rod.
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I like the triangle EVA. It fits your hand perfectly
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I use mine to align the butt guide, others are done by eyeballing.
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I only mark the 0 and 180 axis. Everytime I have tried to mark the 90 and 270 my spacing becomes off center.
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On a 2-axis wrap your layout threads have one thread going up the rod and one wrapped towards the butt. On a 4-axis rod you have 2 threads up 2 down On an 8-axis you have 4 threads going up 4 down etc. For square spacing the spacing for each individual thread is ALWAYS = to the circumfrance but since you have more threads you have to divide the circumfrance by the # of threads crossi
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Steve, if you're in a hurry and can't wait for Mudhole, FISH in madeira Beach has them and I believe they are less than $10. You can call them before making the drive from Tampa
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