My finish coats still end up with a rounded look it is getting better but it is still rounded. So how do you guys get you finish coats to be flat from top to bottom.

Thanks
Jeff

It sounds like you might be applying too much finish on at one time. I apply a thin coat and let it dry on an 18rpm dryer. Many use different rpm motors, but that's what I use. After that coat gets fairly dry (usually within 4 -6 hours for my brand) I apply a second coat a little thicker and let that dry. Two coats usually will do the trick. It depends on what brand finish you are using also. Some brands take much longer to dry. If you apply too much the finish will build up higher in some areas causing a wavy or football rounded finish. How are you applying your finish? High build or low build? Do you have a dryer or do you rotate by hand?
Also, there is a good article in the Library above about applying finish.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I second the article in the library. It really doesn't matter how much you apply as long as you take off the right amount. If that makes since. I brush on my wrap to get a good covering and then let the rod sit a few minutes. The finish will begin to sag and you just brush off excess. Thinning with a little acetone helps also. Also, watch the pot life on your batch. There is a point when the finish will apply easily, but it will be to thick to let it drip off. I discover something new every time I finish a rod. If you can get on you tube, Doc Laboswki has some videos that are interesting. He also has them on 2coolfishing.com under the rod building forum.

I will look that up in the library thanks very much. I think I am mixing to thick, I am going to get some flexcoat tomorrow I believe there is a think mixture type. I am not sure what brand I am using right now a friend of mine bought it and said I hope it works. Well it works but for finer work like fly rods I think it just comes out to thick.
Also I believe it takes longer to set so I am going to go back to Flexcoat it has always worked for me in the past. Thanks guys any other ideas would be great.

I will look that up in the library thanks very much. I think I am mixing to thick, I am going to get some flexcoat tomorrow I believe there is a think mixture type. I am not sure what brand I am using right now a friend of mine bought it and said I hope it works. Well it works but for finer work like fly rods I think it just comes out to thick.
Also I believe it takes longer to set so I am going to go back to Flexcoat it has always worked for me in the past. Thanks guys any other ideas would be great.

Jeff , do a search of the board using the term "level finish" . I`m quite sure you will get some good reading.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Jeff,
Mix up a batch of finish. Mix for at least 120 seconds to insure that you have a good mix.
Apply enough to cover each guide foot. Work quickly to get the finish on each guide foot and thread wrap as the rod is turning. Stop on each guide foot so that you can get the finish into the tunnel at the end of the guide foot.
Continue working quickly until you get to the end of the rod.

Then, use a hair dryer or a heat gun to gently heat each guide just enough to slightly thin the finish and allow the excess - if any to drip off the rod. The slight heat will thin and the turning rod will self level the finish. Really no need to touch the finish with a brush during this process at all. If a drip develops on the underside of the rod, just use the tip of the brush to dab off the drip.

When you get to the butt of the rod, you are done. Go back over each of the guide with a strong light and magnifier to insure that all f the finish is even, flat and covers the thread. If so - turn off the lights, shut the door and let the rod dry overnight.

If you happen to find an uneven spot or dry spot on a guide, add a touch more finish, a touch of heat let level and you are good to go.

The total finish application and inspection should take under about 4 minutes for the typical rod.

The key thing is to not to tarry around and fuss over the finish on a guide. Get adequate finish on each guide and butt wrap to cover the foot, fill the tunnel and the thread. Don't worry about high or low spots on the guide foot or butt wrap if you have sufficient finish on that area. The continued turning of the rod will self level the finish. Then, if necessary, when you go back and need it, a slight amount of heat will sufficiently thin the finish to finish any necessary leveling of the finish.

Too many folks have troubles with finish because they take several minutes to apply and fuss with finish on one guide. You should be spending about 15 seconds to get the finish applied to each guide and then you should be moving on down the rod.
If you are taking more than a minute to apply finish on a given guide, the finish will be really starting to set up by the time that you get to the end of the rod. So, you need to be ready for the application, everything needs to be ready to go. Finish the mix and get right on the finish application and don't stop until everything is done.

Notice - used the word - SLIGHT heat. You aren't boiling potatoes here.

Be safe
Roger

Also a light finish will help it level
If your room is hot -- cool it off The cooler temps will help the finish stay wet a little longer and level out

Bill - willierods.com

Multiple thin coat application.

Apply thin, let each coat cure, re-pete until you get the desired amount on the thread. 3-4 thin coats is not uncommon and way better than 1 thicker coat, control wise.

DR

If you are getting the football shape, I believe it's because of too much finish. Apply less, and/or try a "medium" or even a light-build epoxy.

Jeff,
My best results have been accomplished through pre-heating of finish, mixing tools and mixing surface.
Fewer bubbles, thinner viscosity, longer application time.
This was with 2 coats of high build.
Finish leveled much faster and still allowed for redistribution after finish application.

Eugene Moore

Once you realize that you have applied too much finish, take a business card and while the rod is turning, just touch it to the wrap. This will pull off your excess.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Practice all the suggestions here, find one that works well for you and fine tune it to suit you style. I like a fast turning rod, 120 rpm using Pro Kote, one light coat, let dry 24 hrs and apply one heavier light coat , if that makes sense, and a third if necessary. I just did some practice wraps and finish tonight since I dont have another rod to build until next week. With all the method suggestions here, you will find a system that works for you and you will improve your finishes ten fold....My obsevation has been the best leveling happens just on the verge of running, too thin doesnt level well and too heavy will "football". I'm trying to get down to a two coat process.