I have a rod that was built with an epoxy rear grip ramp and marbled like this: [www.rodbuilding.org]

Now, a rear grip needs to be added where the epoxy ramp is now. I'd rather not tear this whole rod down to do it. I was thinking of cleaning out the epoxy ramp area and part of the marbling area where a new grip will sit down to the rod blank. Next building a rear grip from cork, reaming it to fit the rod blank, slicing the grip in 1/2 and applying the grip to the rod in 2 pieces. I realize I will have a small slice/glue line on two sides of the grip, but hopefully I can achieve a satisfactory result. Anyone tried this before? any tips?

I know getting a perfect fit is gonna be challenging, along with getting a perfect cut and ream.

DR

Do it all from the butt of the rod
The butt grip is small If you can heat the end cap - play with it you should be able to save it Remove the Small cork grip Pad sand the marbling for a good adhesion
Make your new grip and slid it on from the butt Get a good fit
Slide it on and glue it
Remake the end grip
Glue them on
Re-clear the marbling
Done

Bill - willierods.com

It might be quicker to simply remove everything from the seat back and start fresh.

If you want to try splitting a grip and rejoining, it can certainly be done. It's just going to take some careful work.

............

DR; It can be done exactly like you are thinking. I have replaced single cork rings within a grip. The only problem will be getting the correct ID. When you split the new grip and put it back together the reamed hole is now oval shaped, or shaped like an "EYE" ( because of the saw kerf). The OD of the new grip will no longer be round also, so keep that in mind. You will have to ream it again after you split it . With careful measuring and dry fitting it surely can be done. Find you a piece of rod blank the same OD and taper to use as a template when dry fitting the split grip. That will make things a lot easier when trying to sand the 2 seams to a perfect match. Use a full sheet of 240 or less sand paper layed on a flat surface to sand the sawed edges of the cork.
The amount of material the saw and sanding takes out will determine how out-of-round the OD and the ID will be.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Nice marbling job, like the colors, I'm sure after you put a rear grip, it will look good still.

Duane,
Slice off the butt cap and rear but cap grip.
Slice off the marbling etc. up to the reel seat.
Take a new rear grip, ream it to size and slip it on the butt of the rod, gluing it on as you do.
Glue a butt cap to the rear grip and you will be set.

If you use a rear grip with an integrated grip, you just need to slice off the old, ream the rear grip to size, and slip it onto the blank while gluing it in place.
For this sort of install, I just use a drill and drill out the grip to the same size as the largest part of the rear part of the blank. Then, I just use masking tape as needed to arbor up the rest of rear grip area to the same size as the end of the blank.
Coat with epoxy and slip the grip in place.

The entire job should take about 30 minutes.

Take care
Roger

When I get started I'll let you guys know how it went.

Roger,

It'll take me 30min to re-do the marbling alone!

DR

Duane,
I apologize if I misunderstood your original post.
It was my understanding that you needed to have a full length grip on this rod, (not a split grip) and that all of the marbling would be covered by the new grip.

If that was not your intent, I stand corrected.

Roger

Thought you wanted to at least save the time of redoing the marbling ?? The grip will stick well to the pad sanded finish

Bill - willierods.com

Roger, Yes I was just adding a rear split grip not a full length grip, I should have made that clear-er.

Bill,

I was planning on trying to save the marbling, but a grip will offset the decals making them "off center" so I guess I'll re-do the entire area:

add a rear seat grip 2" in length
re-make the rear grip and cap
re-do the decals and marbling

DR