Colors and numbers are Minwax stain.
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Guides are light TiCh frames with blue zirconium rings. Thread is Sulky Original Metallic Peacock blue 7052 and Pewter 7003,finished with 3 coats of spar urethane.
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Here is a picture of some cork grips that I did a few years ago using Minwax stain I applied 1 coat of Minwax oil base stain, let that dry overnight and then 1 coat of Satin Minwax Spar Urethane. Let that dry overnight and then buff with #0000 super fine steel wool. The final texture does not seem to differ much from that of the cork without any finish and it doesn't rub off or stain the h
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Here are the posts, all dates, containg " NEON thread"
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Tim, I have had better results using Redwood for inserts than cedar, in fact have built a number fly rods for myself and others using redwood. If you don't have a source I would be glad to send you a piece, 1-1/4" x 2-3/4' x 8-3/4" if you would email me you mailing address. It is the only piece that I have left until I make another trip to the Oregon coast and I can get more.
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I would be very interested in a copy. For us old gezzers with old eyes and are getting some what color blind it would be a great help in picking the right colors. Bob Crook La Pine, Oregon
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Jeff Here is a picture of a rod I built in 2005 using Batson guides with blue zirc inserts wrapped with Sulky Peacok blue thread and Pewter trim bands
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Here is some information on Juniper that grows here in the west, or the left coast as it is known by some here, . It is widely used by many craftsmen here in Central Oregon for custom furniture, natural rock fireplace mantels, picture frames and a much more, even flooring planks. It is also used for fence posts. As you have seen from Stan's pictures it make beautiful fly rod grips and ree
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James A few years ago I built a switch rod on a Dan Craft FT 10 Ft 10 weight. Click on the link below and read my first post at the top and it wll give you all the information along with the guide size and spacing that Bob Meiser suggested for the rod. Since I built it I have caught quite a number of steelhead and salmon with it and it works well both single & two handed. Bob
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Baston ( Rainshadow / Forecast ) has a series of Spin Bass 3&4 Piece travel blnks in their catalog that might work . They are on page 11. If you don't have a catalog here is the link to them on their website
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The best thing I have found for dust problems are Micro-Fiber Cleaning cloths, they contain no chemicals and do not not scratch the surface being cleaned . I use them for cleaning in my rod building area and wiping down the rod blank prior to applying th finish, the computer screen , camera lenses, tv screen , eye glasses and much more. When they get dirty just machine wash them and they are a
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IMHO The best way to select the best weight line is to go to a shop that will let you test cast varuios lines and try them out before making a decision which one is the best for you and your casting technique. I have found that there is a difference in different brand lines labeled the same weight and the only way to find what suits you and the rod is to try them before buying. Most all the s
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Mudhole has Rod Building 101 on their website, it has online video's, and a bunch of other information that may help you out.
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It is in Volume 9 - Issue 3 on page 22. "Custom Labels from your Ink Jet" Bob La Pine, OR
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REC Components has Snake Brand guides.
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I always thought that Gatti blanks were made in Italy.
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I have used a lot of Bohning Ferr-L-Tite on wooden and aluminum arrows and never had a problem, however the recommended cure time is 24 hours, see link below..
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Thanks Gary. I should have clarified my post . I normally apply 6 to 8 coats of spar urethane so it is a minimum 4 to 6 days before I apply the final coat. Bob Crook
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I use Helmsman spar urethane and let it dry about 6 hours between coats, after the final coat the the rod is ready to use in about 24 hour. I also live in a very dry area, the high desert of Central Oregon. Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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Anglers Workshop, a sponsor on the left has Maniform grips here in the US, . They are really easy on the casting hand and wrist . I built a 8 eight fly rod for a friend who has arthritus and he really likes it. I'm sure you could make it work on a casting/spinning rod
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Ray, Silk sizes - Comparison: 6/0 Pearsall,s Gossamer ( the finest) 4/0 Pearsll's Naples #100 YLI's Finest Silk ( roughly 3/0) #50 YLI's & CT (similar to the 2/0) 2/0 Guderbrod/s silk #30 YLI's Heaviest Silk ( perfect for restoring heavy, ie boat rods) Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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Keith, You also might check out Bob Meiser's Builder Kits Being that he is just down the road from you in Medford it might be worth a trip to check out what he has. He is a wealth of knowlege when it comes to spey and switch rods. Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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Ray I have tried them and you have to be careful or like you said the wire will cut the thread so I gave up on them and went back to mono. I solved the problem of loosing them on the floor by dipping the end in that red or yellow rubber stuff that you can get at the hardware store that is used to dip screw driver & plier handles in, it dries fast and is bright enough to see when you dro
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I got a bottle at the local Joann Fabrics, not that I frequent fabric shops except for Sulky thread and other rod building goodies, sometimes get strange looks when in a fabric store full of women. Have tried it on a couple grips and it seems to do the job and has a fairly long working time, 10 minutes. It is a Lockite product. Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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Rogerio, Yes, I use a small zip lock bag, put it over the tip and squeeze out most of the air and then wrap a rubber band around it to hold it on the tip section . Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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Just put the tip in a boilable plastic baggy and put in hot water, brought to a boil and then turn of the heat , after 3 or 4 minutes in the hot water it should slide right of. Same method as removing a reel seat with no chance of melting the tip of the blank. After you get the tip top off clean with scotch brite and install the new one. Might take a little longer than with a lighter but much
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There is a page in the Baston Catalog that speaks about the different materials, if you don't have the catalog here is a link to the online version Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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You might want to check out the "Library" above and look at the article by Greg Pennell, Easy to Build Rod Wrapping Jig, it has pictures and easy to follow directions. For less than $25.00 you can build yourself a rod wrapper. Then if you are going to be building lot's of rods you can always get a power wrapper. Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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Cork does not absorb much, that's why it floats. I only put on 2 and maybe 3 coats at the most. It seals the surface and it makes keeping the the cork clean much easier. 10 coats is overkill and just a waste of TruOil. Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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I used to build a lot of cork decoys and got my cork from a cork supplier that is not a sponsor. .... The blocks are not not cheap as you will see but they do have some yoga blocks and ski waxing blocks that may work which are more reasonable. Bob Crook La Pine, OR
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