I decided to begin using Bohning Ferr-L-Tite for securing my Tip-Top. Unfortunately, I am not able to get the Tip-Top to stay glued to the blank. This Tip-Top and rod blank should be matched since it is a Dan Craft kit (he supplied all the components including the Tip-Top.) I think I follow the instructions properly: (1) heat the Bohing on my alcohol lamp until it is molten, (2) apply to the blank tip (previously I have lightly sanded the tip and cleaned with denatured alcohol), (3) slip on the Tip-Top and align with the spline, (4) blow on the Tip-Top to cool the glue, (5) wait an hour or so until it is good and dry and the remove the glue residue that squishes out the end of the Tip-Top. (6) Having done all this, I test the Tip-Top and it is not glued ... "grrrrr" So, what am I doing wrong? Thanks, Harold

Harold:
Try to mold the glue into a little roll and stick it into the tube add a little more heat and apply to the rod.
Tight lines
Bill

you also may want to just sand that tip a bit more. there has to be room for glue. If its too tight the glue all squezzes out. I also do what harold said and chip some off with a razor and stuff it in the tip top bofore appling heat. Be carful pulling off the excess and cut it if you can I have pulled the glue right out the top before. good luck email at broderick6@comcast.net if you still have problems billy-b rod co.

Bill Rice Wrote:
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> Harold:
> Try to mold the glue into a little roll and
> stick it into the tube add a little more heat and
> apply to the rod.
> Tight lines
> Bill

Duh! Thanks Bill, the your tip worked great on the tip :-)

Harold

I have used a lot of Bohning Ferr-L-Tite on wooden and aluminum arrows and never had a problem, however the recommended cure time is 24 hours, see link below..

[store.bohning.com]

Harold:
Glad to hear that helped you. I would NEVER sand a blank past a water break surface, that would be asking for problems . It would be cheaper in the long run to buy a bigger tip top. But that is why we help each other out here.
Tight lines
Bill Rice

Harold:
Glad to hear that helped you. I would NEVER sand a blank past a water break surface, that would be asking for problems . It would be cheaper in the long run to buy a bigger tip top. But that is why we help each other out here.
Tight lines
Bill Rice

i just tape the tip top by the ring to the table with the tube sticking straight up...i heat the glue over the tip and let a little drip into the tip and pull it off the table and put it on the rod and it gets glued great

I used to slice slivers and put them into tips until I came across a tip on this board a couple years ago (can't remember who it was, but the man deserves a medal) and it's one of the best tips I've found. Heat the tip, then gouge the tip thru the glue stick like an ice cream scoop. Fills the tip with glue with zero effort. Heat again and install.

Try it once and you'll never see a need to cut slivers or melt threads to insert into the tips.

Ditto what Mick said....I heat the tip and scoop up the glue, then reheat and install. Works great.

Joe Douglas

Joe has it right.
This is the same procedure used when making plumbing connections. When plumbers do sweat soldering of copper pipes for home or industrial plumbing, they clean the pieces, apply flux, heat the largest part of the joint, and wick solder into the joint.

The heated joint will SUCK the solder into the joint and you will have a good joint.

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In that vein, I do the following for my tips.

1. I heat the joint, as well as the hot melt glue and brush the end of the glue against the tip. Glue will be sucked into the tip. I will also sometimes take a small metal rod that is a bit smaller than the tip, heat it, the glue and the tip, and take the coated rod and insert it into the tip to insure that I have glue all of the way to the base of the tip.

2. Then, I heat the glue stick a bit and rotate the rod tip to apply a light coating of glue to the tip. I keep the glue off the very very extreme end of the tip. I have found that if I get glue on the very extreme end of the tip, I sometimes have trouble getting all of the tip fibers into the tip - without causing some tip fiber separation.

3. Finally, I gently heat the cement coated tip, the cement coated rod tip and put the two together. I align with the rest of the guides, and wipe off the excess glue. If necessary, i will slightly reheat the tip again, to clear off any excess glue from the tip and also double check the alignment of the tip.

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Before, using a small metal rod to insure that I had the glue all of the way into the tip - I did have a couple of tips come loose. Since, always making sure that the inside of the tip was completely glue coated all of the way to the bottom of the tip; I have not had any further tip failures.

Roger

Why not tie on a single footer?

Hive

Harold, clean it and then scuff the surface. Not the opposite like you've stated. Solvents shouldn't be the last thing used before gluing or finishing. It can possibly cause the exact problem that you're having.

Putter
Williston, ND