I agree with Don. I have been fly fishing for over 50 years and anything under 6 ft is very hard to cast and obtain the delicate presentaion of the fly on the water. Bob
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I had the same problem this AM, 5:30 to 7:00 Pacific time. Was able to get on with no problem just now.
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A number of rods are now coming out this year with single foot wire guides, G. Loomis, St. Croix and even Cabela's has 2006 fly rods with them. Haven't seen any with ceramic single foot yet but am sure they will come. They are finding out what rod builders have known for years and are finally catching up.
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You might check out Boone Trading I used to do scrimshaw belt buckles and bolo ties and got some nice fossil ivory from them. A walrus oosik might make a nice grip.
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I tried the spray but did not like it, might be ok for a flat surface like a sign if you can spray it outside. IMHO much easier to use the regular stuff in the can and put it on with your fingers/ lint free rag/ or coffee filter. Have never been a fan of any paint in a spray can. Bob
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Sounds like the Japanese rods the were made by the millions after WWII. They came in a wood case and had 2 tips. Worth about $75 - $100 in mint condition on todays market.
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I made one similar to the one shown in the photo section using some scrap wood, works great:
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This might help you out:
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I have been able to cut the total number of guides on a number of fly rods by using the static guide placement method in the library and test casting the rod. Have been able to drop at least one guide on most rods and two on others, on a 10 ft switch rod was able to decrease the total numer of guides to 8. The static placement and test casting takes a little extra time but is well worth the e
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If you have some Rod Bond a little glob in the open end works or like Bill said silicone caulking works also, you can color it black with a Sharpie marker after it has dried.
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What type of rod are you restoring, bamboo, glass or graphite? The methods used depend on what it is.
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Thought this might be of interest to those asking about balancing a fly rod..
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I use it on bamboo rods, never tried it on graphite but don't think it would work to well as it is a wood finish, but who knows. The only way to find out is try it.
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Check out the CCS Data site on the left, the CCS info for the 3 blanks you are asking about is there.
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How does the USPS determine with Presorted Standard what goes where/how first? I have had mine almost 2 weeks ago and I live in rural Central Oregon. Is it all shipped surface or is some, to farther destinations, sent air? Just curious. Bob La Pine, Oregon
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I guess us folks an the left coast have more clout with the USPS, I got mine over a week ago, through rain, sleet, and snow. Bob
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There is a picture in the 2006 Cabela's fly fishing catalog of the St. Croix Avid which is built with the SCIII but is really doesn't show the green color very good. If you can find a place close by the sells St. Croix rods you could see it up close. If you can't email me and I can scan the picture in the catalog and send it to you. Bob
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If you used the email address on the opening page of his website try, danfisherman@earthlink.net , and see if that works. It is the email address from his 2005 catalog and is different than the one on the website. Bob
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The Sulky with numbers 7000's is the ok stuff The Sulky with numbers 8000's is the flat ribbon film, no good Bob
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You won't have any trouble if you use the "Sulky Original Metallic" but stay away from the " Sulky Silver Metallic" they are a thin flat ribbon and IMHO not suitable for wrapping.
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Here is another picture of a Forecast Ti frame with a blue insert. Bob
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Check out Dan Craft, go to his web site on the left and down load the catalog. I have a FT 1003-4, great rod!!. It is 4 piece but when it is together you would think it is 1 piece the way it casts, Bob
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Check out the static guide placement method in the library above. It is ok to start with a generic spacing but if you want to do it right also use the static method. Temporarily attach the guides with tape, rubber bands , or whatever works for you, I warp them with elastic thread, and then test cast the rod out in the yard and make any adjustments that are necessary. It takes a little extra t
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Dan's FT series is a good choice. I have 3 FT's, 10ft 10wt, 9ft 5wt and a 10ft 3wt, all are great rods with plenty of power. All are 4 peice. You can download the Dan Craft catalog on his web site. Bob
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Have 5 old bamboo fly rods being rebuilt , 1930's - 1940's vintage. Removed all guides, ferrules, reel seats and stripped all the old varnish. Now time to start from scratch, sort of like starting with 5 new blanks and all new components. The stripping was a pain, very time consuming, but the rebuild should go fairly fast. Bob
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I use Sulky Original Metallic thread for most all the guide wraps on the fly rods I build and have never heard of, or had a problem with a loose guide. It is smaller than "A" and as a result there are more wraps on the guide foot resulting in a stonger wrap. It does not tend to come apart like the some of the Gudebrod, requires no cp and comes in a lot of colors. Any guide would
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Try elastic thread available where ever thread is sold, don't have to slide it down the blank, just a couple turns around the guide and a knot. I wrap the guides with it if I am going to to test cast the rod..works great.. and it is cheap and easy to get.
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If you want a flat look finish the wrap you want to put the feather on with a couple coats of Permagloss. If you want a 3-d effect, which I think looks nice, finish it with Hi-build, almost makes the feather look like it is floating.
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I use wooden dowels coated with permagloss or spar varnish for thread color test wraps and have put feather inlays on them also, then finish them, set them outside in the weather to get an idea on what will looks the best after 3 or 4 months. Have some out now but they are covered with 3 feet of snow so won't be able to look at them until spring, if it ever comes. Bob
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Pictures of balsa on the photo board
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