I have 3 heavy rods with roller tips and roller bottom guides. Two are new Lamiglas and one is an old Shakespear. I tried a little heat on the old rod roller tip and it didn't budge. I don't want to touch the 2 Lamia's until I have it figured out. Obviously the were not attached with a normal tiptop glue stick. Suggestions anyone??? Thanks, Jon
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Lance: I also use a couple of CalStar T-608 rods that I Roberts wrapped.Those rods catch fish too. The Sabre 500 just has a "feel" like no other rod I've tried and I've tried quite a few. When trolling a 360 it has that particular bump every second as the 360 rotates that you can see in the tip and can feel if you are holding it in your hands. I guess maybe an old fiberglass rod jus
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I know this is a stretch but I have to ask. My Dad had a rod built for himself probably 40 or 50 years ago on a Sabre 500 blank. I still have the rod and use it trolling for King Salmon on a river near my house. I love this rod and it catches fish. The problem is my buddies love this rod too. I would love to find a couple of blanks or built rods I could strip and rebuild. I don't have a clu
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Thank you Daryl, got it...
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I thought I would have enough but I don't think I'm going to make it. Would anyone have a 100 yard spool of Gudebrod, #9105, HT Metallic Lime, Size A thread I could buy off of them? I would hate to unwrap everything and start with another thread. I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Jon Gold
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I found a Batson IP904 blank, 7'6", 1 piece, 8-17 lb. in the back of my pile. I cannot remember what I bought it for. The Batson catalogue says it is an RX7, Multi-Purpose, Inshore/Popping blank. What can it be used for? Suggestions? I live on the Oregon Coast now, so maybe location specific. Thanks
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Thank you Norm. I like the magic eraser idea. Jon
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Thank you Spencer. I'll try the goo gone / goof off. There was salmon egg goo all over this rod, among other nasty things. I think he used it mostly for bobber fishing on the Alsea River here in Oregon. It is an old rod but it does not have a Matt finish (maybe it just looks old from the heavy customer use). I'm told Gary Loomis did not make this particular model until this guide asked him
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I'm replacing all the wraps on a G Loomis spinning rod (SAR1084S) that has been heavily used by a local guide. All the wraps are cracked. The question is, how can I clean up this blank without sanding and recoating it? I've wiped it with denatured alcohol 3 times and acetone twice. It's getting better but it is still funky. Just keep wiping it down, or does anyone have a secret sauce to spee
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Would anyone know the line weight & the lure weight for this blank? I plan on asking St. Croix, but would anyone also know if the tip section for this blank is still available? Thanks, Jon
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I sand down to 320 grit. Then I wipe the cork dust off. Then one coat of U40. Let it dry. Then I put on a coat of (don't laugh) chap stick. After a day or so I wipe off the excess chap stick with a paper towel. Jon
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Barge Cement. Works for me.
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I just finished my first snake skin butt wrap and it came out great. I have a cutting mat from a hobby shop that has a grid pattern printed on it and it worked fine for laying out the skin & then cutting it with a fresh single edge razor blade. The grid pattern works for laying out the scales straight, but does the N/S cut really have to be that precise since you are doing thread over those
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Hi Tom: When please? I got 14/1 in the mail today, it isn't that one. Thanks, Jon
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For those of us that can't make the trip from California, what will be the best way too find out about your new process & how to get the new veneer? Thanks, Jon
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Ken: You are right, short sections of various blanks are probably the best. I guess I better start accumulating them. Until then, I'm happy with these tiny sanding drum arbors, especially since they are expandable and have a rubber outer surface on the drum. Come to think of it, I bet the Dremel tool uses similar drums that may work. Thanks, Jon
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This post got me thinking because, if I want to work on a rod over 8 ft. long I have to move my rod lathe and go through a bunch of nonsense because the room is too short. I went to a Rocklin woodworking store near my house yesterday after reading your post and bought the smallest drum sanding arbors they had. It measures right at .450 OD without tightening down the expansion nut on the rubbe
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Can anyone please give me some information on a St. Croix 686 MH2 blank? Could not find anything on the St. Croix website. It is being used as a downrigger rod for salmon trolling near San Francisco. My buddy likes the action and he would like me to build him something similar. My personal first choice would be a CalStar T608 mooching blank. It's a little light but the tip is nice and soft
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I use the cork filler from Elmer's in the Golden Oak color. Maybe you could see if they have touch up paint in that color too?? Jon
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I use a lot of heat shrink and I always use an old time shoe makers cement. The product is called "Barge Cement" and comes in a 2 oz. yellow squeeze tube. It is manufactured by Quabaug Corporation from North Brookfield, MA. The heat really helps the glue flow and I never have any lumps under the wrap. Also, I've never had a grip spin or break free using the Barge Cement. Hope this
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Drew: You could try Lamiglas. They make a couple of kokanee trolling rods for like 4-8 lb test. They are around 7' 6" & 7'9", yellow, fiberglass, and very, very soft/parabolic. The rod listings are the FC76UL & CG70DR. I don't see the rods listed as blanks on the Lamiglass website, but I would call Anglers Workshop and ask them if they are available as blanks. Jon
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Yup....I love these blanks Nick. I literally have 6 of the MB901F blanks in my shop in various stages of completion right now. These are 7'6" and rated 10 to 20 lb. It really depends on what you plan on using them for. What do you want to fish for, are you using live bait, dead bait, jigs, lures, casting, straight drop down, how deep, and where would you plan on using it? These are &q
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Check out the Batson RCLB blanks in 7 ft. or 8 ft. Great value, great rod. Those are my 30 & 40 lb. rods for tuna.
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I second what Victor said. Get "Rod-Building Guide" by Tom Kirkman, ISBN #: 1-57188-216-2, published by Frank Amato Press. Plenty of the retailers on the left have it. It will be the best 15 bucks that you ever spent on this hobby. I literally read the book cover to cover 4 times, then sat down and built my first rod about 6 years ago..... Jon
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Bill: Sounds like your statement is more out of frustration than anything else. I use their metallic electra thread on probably 50% of the rods that I build, I love the way it shimmers out on the boat in the sunlight. I do just five wraps before I pull the tag through & I make them just a tad looser than the main body of wraps. I would say that 75% of the time it pulls through just f
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Terry: The best trick I've found is a 6" digital micrometer that reads in inches or mm at the push of a button. I bet you can find a real inexpensive one at a place like Harbor Freight or a similar store in your area. Jon
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Marc: I use CP on everything from 4 lb. ultra lights to 80 lb. Alaskan Halibut rods to 100lb. tuna rods. Never had a problem and never thought twice about it. I have always used the Flex Coat CP with my AFTCOTE epoxy. The only time I think it might matter would be if you were looking for a darker translucent finish, like on a fly rod for instance. Jon
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I'm trying one of these Fuji ISP 16 reel seats for the first time that is let into the rear cork grip. I don't understand how I will shim it at the rear. Do I epoxy the rear cork section first and let it dry, then shim the front of the seat to fit and epoxy it in? I don't see how I can provide any support to the reel seat on the part that is let in to the grip, unless the let in portion and
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Thanks Jim. I will call them tomorrow. Jon
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Tom: Great idea........ A Rainshadow IS720 with a 1 ft. extension would work for me. I know these guys would prefer a faster blank anyway. I have all the RodMaker CD's so, where can I find the article on building extensions since I've haven't done this yet. Thanks, Jon
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