Roger, Got the 60 rpm motor and it works great! Thx again! Dave
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I just found a 60 RPM synchronous motor, similar style to what comes with wrapper. I will try it out and if its a no go, will do what you said. Thx Again!
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Roger, Thx for the info! I have always put on the epoxy at high speed and then flipped over to dry mode, but at the slower speed, I am noticing that I am not getting even epoxy and I am getting peaks. I decided to try a buddy's faster speed at 18 and it worked well without issue. I just acquired the CRB at 18 rpm but wanted to convert my Pac Bay as well so i have 2 dryers. Don't know if the
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Roger, See attached photo. It is the pac bay wrapper and deluxe 3-jaw self-centering chuck. You can switch the single belt from wrap to dry. This is one of the more popular models that I got at the rod building show in NC many years ago..... Dave
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Hope someone can help, I have a Pac Bay rod wrapper/dryer combo. I upgraded the headstock to the new and improved some time back to hold my rods with better grip for turning /drying. The drying motor runs slow at ~ 6 rpm so I decided to change out the drying motor with an 18 rpm, After I replaced it, I noticed that it runs at about the same speed? and to boot, the motor I replaced was a 36 rpm
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Has anyone tried using 60 wt cotton for wrapping guides? Was wondering if cotton could be used vs nylon?
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Glenn, What grit # paper are you sanding with?
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I did a reverse chevron wrap in the middle of the split grip and wrapped off the ends with no issues. For some reason on this particular rod, the epoxy is not leveling out but instead drying at a taper at one end and an hour glass shape at the other? I'm drying it on my Pac bay wrapper as I have done in the past with no issues but I am on my 6th coat trying to get this epoxy even and it keeps
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I've removed the foregrip and now need to remove the reel seat but with the epoxy holding it tight, I am looking for a smooth way to break the bond and remove the reel seat. Any ideas?
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Mike, I planned on using one guide for the transition......What size would you start with for your 1st guide?
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I have seen the carrot sticks with the micro guides and they apparently still have not adopted the concept of the spiral wrap for the baitcasting-type reels. I did notice that they have 12 micro guides, including tip-top, on a 7' rod. Is this customary for this type of set-up? I want to incorporate the spiral wrap so would I need less guides in this instance? Any suggestions on a 7"
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Tony, I also sent you an email for the link to the resources for both Alaska and China. Thx!
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Has anyone tried the guide placement chart by Don Morton that is currently carried by Mudhole? I wanted to see if anyone had anything to add or detract hat would make it better? It is for concept and microguide placement but apparently can be used for anything. Thoughts? Is this a necessary tool to have in your arsenal?
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Tom, Are you or these vendors offering any workshops for some "hands-on"? I believe you and I talked about it before as getting some "hands-on" experience with a pro-builder right there to help you perfect a technique not only builds confidence but also encourages the inidividual to go and buy all the necessary materials right at the show! I'm sure some of the guys woul
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Matthew, Where did you purchase your abalone?
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Someone help me out here as I have been away from my rodbuilding since the great show in NC. I picked up some abalone sheets at the show and know that the application requires vinegar soaks, etc. I recently got a flyer from mudhole and in their educational section they showed applying the abalone sheets with a heat gun? I assume these are the synthetics and not the real abalone sheets? Does anyon
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Anyone know what the normal charge is to have someone at an auto body shop paint a rod blank?
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Guys, Baitcaster with 8-12 lb. line rating. Dave
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Guys, I am trying to build a twitching stick for a customer -7'6", medium action with micro guides. Any suggestions? Thx
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I know I always wish that I could do a nice weave on my rod but because I make smaller diameter rods, I am limited in what I can do. An idea I had was this............After making a new composite grip, sand it to shape, and then sand a desired length of area down (~1/16-1/8" in depth). When you shrink tube the carbon sleeve, it would obviously conform across the entire grip. The sanded area
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JP, Thanks for all your input. I hung around your booth because you are an easy guy to talk to with great ideas. As far as the last minute fill in seminar on the grips..............awesome......You are interesting to listen to and the kind of guy that can have a new topic every year because you are not afraid to try new ideas. Hope to see you again next year. I'm gonna try to make those rings
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Tom, Coming from Arizona, I was glad to meet you on my way out. I have to agree that not only is the show underpriced, but I think there are those who would pay a lot more for the knowledge at this show. As we discussed, workshops would definitely be something that people would sign up for. To be able to hear people like Terry lecture on feathers and Jim on basic rodbuilding, would be infinite
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Here is the question. The cork was fine throughout with no deformities and then I sealed it with cork seal and the next day I had Ovals at the ends where the burl rings were which led me to believe that quite possibly the burl took the seal differently? or some type of moisture? It may be, as I stated earlier, that I squeezed the rings too tight. But would there not be a deformity after I sanded
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Andy, I use the exact 4 in 1 file you use in your video with the tool rest and the rougher cut. I need to either cut away the end rings where it happened and redo or just try to again file it concentrically again. Dave
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Mark, Your explanation may just be the answer. I guess I should have explained that I did in fact follow Andy Dear's video instructions using a file and then sandpaper and I usually have had n trouble. It's piecing these cork ring sectons together that I need to work on and maybe need to try Mike's idea as mentioned above to get more clean, balanced sections that will glue up correctly. Dav
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Guys, I may very well have squeezed too tight, but If I did, wouldn't the sanding process restore the shape to round? Dave
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I assembled and turned a cork grip with standard cork in the center and a checkerboard pattern of both standard cork and burl at each end of the grip. The next day the ends of this grip were now oval and "out of round" Did the burl take on moisture of some sort? The rest of the grip is round and without concern. Any suggestions?
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I am building a 4 piece travel fly rod and was wondering, if any, good tips there are in finding the spine. Assemble and then find the spine or ?????. Dave D.
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I am in agreement with Thomas. I was taught with a bobbin and find anything else time consuming and cumbersome. It is lightning quick once you get the hang of it and I would venture to say a lot quicker. It ha sits disadvantages I'm sure but it works for me and I can;t imagine doing it any other way. I do however think you need to check your wraps frequently (especially on ling underwraps) to mak
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