I see there are many threads on this topic. My question is. If I take my blank to an auto body shop do I need to explain anything to them, or should they know what to use as far as flex and top coat?

You need to tell them that flex additive is a must for ALL color and clear coats. They should know, but it's better to be safe than sorry!

DR

Some thing to think about is that it is said in the auto field that one coat of polyurethane clear is worth 10 coats of lacquer clear, that is why most only put two-three coats of clear on.

Bill - willierods.com

Bill that has always been my primary unvoiced question. I always thought of auto paint as not being very durable compared to the urethane coating, and hence need to be thicker. I always wondered if the auto paint, being multicoat, would weigh the blank down noticeably. With some of the UL stuff, I can easily notice the difference a fraction of a gram on the recovery of the rod.

Mo

Mo,

Automotive paints now days are RARELY Lacquer. Many of the "show" cars are still done this way because of the ease of sanding and buffing to a brilliant shine, however, that shine never lasts and must be waxed and cared for regularly. Lacquer is very brittle and has the least flexing capability of any automotive paint. Adding flex agent to it does change this property.

Most auto paints today, 15 years ago really!...are acrylics and urethane's. Less coats, better flex and better protection. Flex additives are STILL NEEDED for these as well.

DR

Don't get me wrong - cars are painted now a days in a two stage paint. I used to put a lacquer base on - then a polyurethane clear. You could put gasoline on the clears and could not destroy them.
A lot of shops now are using - water based paints - just for the environment. The clears can be and often were wet sanded and compounded to get that lacquer shine on them. But the color and the clears are water based.

Water based paints I am not sure of. never used them.

Bill - willierods.com

Jeff,
I just received a card from a fellow who does rod painting.
He uses the plastic bumper paint that is used to paint auto bumpers.

The initial appearance is great, very flexible and very very tough. Nearly impossible to scratch off.

Take care
Roger

That sounds like an excellent tip. Thanks Roger.

Harold

I just did one with duplicolor truck and suv paint. Dried for 3 days and then put it on the turner, applied a coat of the new Lumiseal from Rod Dancer with a brush as it turned slowly. Walked away and came back the following morning to a perfectly level finish with a brilliant shine and depth. The Lumiseal dont smell as strong as the PG. I did it in the basement with not complaining from upstairs.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Thank you all for your responses. The blank is just about clean. I used a knife because a razor wasn't readily available and I think I destroyed the blade, none of my sharpeners will put the edge back. I'll be going over it with a scotch brite pad to finish it up. The original builder did not want this thing to be refinished. After 2 days of scraping there is still places where I cannot scrape the finish off. Then it will be off to paint.

I've been looking at some of the wrap pics here. I was thinking about a chevron over a tiger. I have not seen it but I imagine it to be hot. Do you think this is feasible? Will the barnishing of the chevron mess up the tiger? Being at the butt I'm not worried about weight or stiffening the blank. I was thinking I might have to seal the tiger before applying the chevron.

Jeff, a chevron over tiger can be done....but what type of rod is the original. That WILL be A TON of weight to add for some blanks and something that simply wont make too much of a difference on others.

Fred
How did you like the lumiseal compared to PG. Slower drying ?

Bill - willierods.com

I believe it to be slower.It really flowed out nice and it was about 80% humidity when I did it.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Not sure of the blank. I received it 15 years ago. It's a 10' glass surf rod. Moderate action. I was told it is a Lami. I've thrown 1-4oz plugs without problem. It was spinning and I'm changing it to conventional.

Anyone know what the normal charge is to have someone at an auto body shop paint a rod blank?

$15-25 depending on how many, economic conditions in the area and how you form the relationship.

I've called 3 of the body shops in my area and none of them will paint my blank. They claim the paint will not work for the bend required. Can I tint lumiseal and color the rod? Or should I paint the rod then seal?

Permagloss or Lumiseal will work. Will give you a transparent look. I paint after sanding wet with 400-600 paper. Dry well then two coats of auto paint, just to cover. Then after dry one good coat of permagloss. Got to try the lumiseal.

Bill - willierods.com

I would like to stay away from transparency. The blake is so old that it is stained where the old wraps were or bleached where they were not.