Hope someone can help,

I have a Pac Bay rod wrapper/dryer combo. I upgraded the headstock to the new and improved some time back to hold my rods with better grip for turning /drying. The drying motor runs slow at ~ 6 rpm so I decided to change out the drying motor with an 18 rpm, After I replaced it, I noticed that it runs at about the same speed? and to boot, the motor I replaced was a 36 rpm that came with the Pac Bay? Is there an issue with the headstock or the pulley wheel size? I want this headstock to dry at 18 rpm like my CRB 18 one does........Lil help for the novice here....

Dave,
Some pictures please.

Whenever I am doing configurations like this, I first take the motor by itself and put a piece of tape like a flag on it. Then, I plug in the motor to its power source and count the number of revolutions in a minute.

Now, take a look at any pulley and shaft configurations. i.e. if you don't use a single shaft with the dryer mounted on the end, the speed of the head stock will be the sum or difference of any pulley and shaft gear ratios in the system.

If you have two pulleys of the same size with a single shaft and belt connecting, the head stock will turn the same speed as the motor.

But, if you have any pulley diameter changes, or multiple shafts, your final head stock speed will the the motor speed X the gear ratio of the pulleys and head stock.

It sounds like you have a 1:4 gear ratio on your setup. But a picture with pulley dimensions will easily confirm these figures.

Be safe

For example:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This was one of the first wrapper heads that I made a long time ago, that has since been taken apart and the shafts used for other purposes.

The pulley sizes are something like this .

Motor pulley .75 inches. First belt shaft pulley - 2 inches. So, the first gear ratio will be 3:8 --- Or if you have a 100 rpm motor driving the first shaft the first shaft will be turning 37.4 rpm.

Now, the 2nd drive pulley is 1/2 inch so with the motor turning 100 rpm, the 2nd small pulley will be turning 37.5 rpm.
Now, the 2nd driven pulley is 4 inches. So, the gear ratio is 1:8 - i.e. for each turn of the drive pulley the large pulley shaft will turn 1/8th of a turn. Thus if we drive the 2nd shaft at 37.5 rpm, the final head stock shaft will be going at 4.7 rpm.

So, as you can see, if you have two reduction pulley systems, the final reduction will be equal to the product of the two reduction ratios.

Good luck

Roger,

See attached photo. It is the pac bay wrapper and deluxe 3-jaw self-centering chuck. You can switch the single belt from wrap to dry. This is one of the more popular models that I got at the rod building show in NC many years ago....[www.mudhole.com].

Dave

Dave,
I was just thinking again that a different thought on pulley ratios and the final head stock speed.

Simply put, the final speed is the product of all intervening gear ratios.

Lets suppose that you have two sets of pulleys each with a 1:2 ratio. i.e. a 1 inch pulley on the drive shaft and a 2 inch pulley on the driven shaft.

Now, if the motor was running at 100 rpm, the driven shaft would be turning at 50 rpm, due to the pulley ratio.

Then, if the 2nd pulley setup was also 2:1, the final shaft or head stock speed in your case would then be 25 rpm.

So, you now have a pulley ratio of 1/2 and a pulley ratio of 1/2.

Multiply the two together or 1/2 x 1/2 = 1/4. So, the final pulley ratio will be 1:4.

i.e. a motor speed of 100 rpm / 4 = 25 rpm final shaft or head stock speed.

Thus the final shaft speed of any set of pulleys and gears will the the product, or will result when each ratio if multiplied by the next ratio to get the final shaft speed.

Be safe

Dave,
When I looked at the pictures and played the video, it appears that in drying mode, that the rod is turning at about 10-12 rpm.
i.e. 1 turn every 6 seconds or 10 turns in 60 seconds.

It also appears that the pulley ratio of the drying motor to head stock shaft is roughly 4 to one. So, if the rod is turning at about 10 rpm, it means that the actual drying motor on this wrapper is actually turning about 36 or 40 rpm to have the rod dry at 10 rpm.

So, with a 4 to one speed ratio and you wish to have a drying speed of 18 rpm, you need to use a motor that is 18 X 4 or 62 rpm to get your desired shaft speed.

The other thing that you could do would be to put a larger pulley on the dryer motor and a longer belt to drive the head stock if you wanted a faster speed. I don't know if the current dryer mounting position has room for a larger pulley or not.

The other thing that you could do, would be to put a smaller pulley on the head stock shaft and use a shorter belt.

p.s.
I do agree that the use of a faster drying speed is an advantage at times.
This is why I use my power wrapper to apply finish. I generally apply finish at speeds from 0 to about 50 or 100 rpm. This allows the finish to get on the rod very quickly. But once the finish is in place and everything ready for long term drying, I like to slow it down to about 6 rpm for the final drying stages.

So, if this is your case, I might just suggest, that you do all of your finish application, and initial finish work using the wrapping motor on your wrapper. Then, when you wan tthe lolng term drying, just flip the belt at that time.
It is a pretty simple and quick thing to do, and may answer the needs that you have for a faster dryer motor. I think that most folks want a faster dryer motor, basically for finish application, and not necessarily for the long term drying of the finish.

Good luck

Roger,

Thx for the info!

I have always put on the epoxy at high speed and then flipped over to dry mode, but at the slower speed, I am noticing that I am not getting even epoxy and I am getting peaks. I decided to try a buddy's faster speed at 18 and it worked well without issue. I just acquired the CRB at 18 rpm but wanted to convert my Pac Bay as well so i have 2 dryers. Don't know if they sell a 62 rpm motor at a good price so I may want to put smaller pulley on there.

Thx again!

Dave

The faster speed will allow you to put more finish on a wrap
A good thing to do is let it sit at that speed for maybe 1 - 2 hours

Or

Stop the turner and let the excess drip off Then wipe it off Do a 180 hand turn several times to be sure
Then start the slower turning

Bill - willierods.com

Here is a 50 rpm 24V DC motor that would work for you.
[www.amazon.com]

You can just use an inexpensive 24V dc power supply similer to this one to power the motor.

[www.amazon.com]

You will likely have to make a bushing for the motor so that the pulley fits properly on the motor, but that is simple to do.

This motor and power supply would give you a faster drying speed.

Be safe

Here is a 60 rpm DC motor that would dry even faster.

[www.amazon.com]

This one uses a 12 volt dc power supply.

A simple 12 volt power supply like this one will work just fine to power the motor:

[www.amazon.com]

For either of these motors, if you want to use the existing switch on your wrapper to turn your dryer off and on, just wire a plug into the wiring for the current dryer motor. Plug the power supply into the plug and you now have the switch on the dryer switching the new motor on and off.

Be safe

I just found a 60 RPM synchronous motor, similar style to what comes with wrapper. I will try it out and if its a no go, will do what you said.

Thx Again!

Dave,
Just be sure that the motor is not a shaded pole motor.

Shaded pole motors work great in intermittent operation, but overheat in continuous operation.

Be safe

Roger,

Got the 60 rpm motor and it works great! Thx again!

Dave