William learning to properly sharpen your tools can take as much time as learning how to use them , you may want to try Easy Wood Turning tools which have the advantage of changing the insert rather then sharpening the tool. if at all possible attend ICRBE and attend Morris wood turning classes ,he still gets a better cut using a roughing gouge then me using a skew well worth the trip alone. If
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Bill one thing I would stress is wear a respirator if you plan on turning the antler, that dust can be a killer
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let me just throw this out for thought, it really depends on the value you put on your time, for someone in the business it might not be worth the time and effort to remove all salvageable components, for someone who just enjoys working with rods it can be a learning experience as well as a great way to get a large number of components at a good price.
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Tom has that right the so called dust collectors are good for getting the larger particles produced until you get into the super high end systems. I use a harbor freight dust collector with a 5 micron bag for general duty and run a JET 708620B AFS-1000B listed as an air filtration system for the finer material. You should leave this run a couple of hours after you are finished sanding, it does
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Tom has that right the so called dust collectors are good for getting the larger particles produced until you get into the super high end systems. I use a harbor freight dust collector with a 5 micron bag for general duty and run a JET 708620B AFS-1000B listed as an air filtration system for the finer material. You should leave this run a couple of hours after you are finished sanding, it does
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not necessarly better but maybe easier is to cover it with size A thread to match rod then apply a thin coat of finish new decal when dry and final coat of finish
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Phil back when I was building and repairing rods for a business I purchased the Cork 4U machine,loved it could charge more for super fast repairs, there finish I believe is a varnish but works the same .The whole issue of UV cured products is rather complicated not something where you can just go out and grab a cheap machine and expect it to work all the time it involves wavelengths and finish se
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lathe thoughts turning is addiciting almost certain you will in a short time want to do more,spend a little more in the beggining Ryobi ,Jet or Delta you will be glad you did one other thought the accessories you will need chucks etc will end up costing as much as the lathe again save and buy quality John
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Alps both the Alps 1300 and 5000 had the ability to print dye sub, many yearts ago Alps had a post on their web site that the dye sub did not work as well as their regular system for some printing chores. The problem with the Alps is only a couple of models could print in metallics and all of them needed a white base coat for printing for use on rods again only a couple of models the 1000,1300 a
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Ken I started with Win 3.01 through win 7 do yourself a favor get a Mac far less hassles, definitley my last PC John
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Daniel I should also mention that there are a good number of fake Harrington-Harnell blanks around so if you should find any make sure they are real. John
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Daniel almost every builder in the area wants them also, the last price I got for two models that were found in a garage was ridiculous about 6 times the wholesale cost back in the 80s John
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Jim I think the guides are either Mildrum or Allen ,about the only way to ind them is locate someone who happens to have some stuck in a box somewhere neither have been available for some time John
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Jim from the photo it would appear that the reel seat was pinned on, ie they used a pop rivet to keep the reel seat from moving this would need to be removed before trying to remove the seat in the usual way, can be done and as Tom said an interesting project to take on John
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virtually all the mini-midi lathes come out of the same off shore factory and all perform quite well, the quality control demanded by the importer is what will tell the tale, try hitting some wood working forums for real time info re the model you are looking at John
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I should have added when Andy Dear first had Threadmaster developed a few testers reported problems with applying a second coat after the finish cured now that could be 2 out of a 100 people BUT as a seller of a product it is safer to make it as idiot proof as possible thus the proviso to scuff the finish before applying a second coat just enough to remove the high gloss aspect John
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If I recall correctly Ralph once said that by applying APPLICATIONS that is reapplying finish to a rod before the finish has cured, actually the finish blends in to become one coat, whereas applying a seperate coat ie reapplying the finish to a rod where the finish has cured is really applying a second coat which will not hold up as well as numerous applications John
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Larry you may have a problem as the Loomis decals are almost surley have a copy write and it is illegal for a company to print them, The orginal decals also contained the info regarding the blank size line weight etc so you need this info if looking for someone who happens to have an old Loomi decal laying around because it should match the blank John
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Doug you are in a great position take a ride into town and visit Anglers Workshop directly opposite the Lamiglass factory, great people to deal with John
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Bill S that's just how I feel about my new Machine lathe I know how to turn it on but after that it's all head scratching LOL note you will become addicted to wood turning i that's all part of the big plan,you will need larger lathes more chucks etc never ends John
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This weekend Tampa fair grounds the wood working show, many turners from tri county and suncoast wood turners will be there doing demos, I do think you will need to find someone who does lamps as a long bit will be needed
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Harry Dunlap - craftsman ran both machine lathes as well as wood try doing a google search, tons of info out there once you find out exactly your lathes specks as Tom said the rest is easy be prepared the accessories can cost more then the lathe John
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Scott the Loomis factory is in Woodland Washington but they are now owned by Shimano and have been for a few years John
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I will go with woodturning design also thing is once you subscribe to one more will follow .The magazine is having a back issue sale on now browse through the past issues John
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the Tritons are quite good somewhat pricey but offer a number of options, dust colector systems are a big help also but again expensive John
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Fred All Star was purchased a few years ago by Shakespeare (Ugly Stik) and the operation was moved off shore I would think your best bet would be contacting the dealer you bought the rod from re any type of warranty John
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Tom the problem isn't keeping the thread white but keeping the finish clear virtually all the two part finishes will amber over time, the only rod I have ever seen after time to keep white is one Tom Kirkman displays at ICRBE maybe he will disclose his secret John
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In a word YES there can be problems in covering the entire rod, I get asked at least twice a week to re epoxy a rod that was totally covered in finish, the finish is meant to cover and protect thread not the blank it will often crack,peel and look similar to dried alligator skin in general the longer it is on the worse it will appear, many use it but I have seen all to many big problems occurring
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Bill this type of e-mail should be placed in the large container on the floor or spam folder on the computer,not paying to advertise is low and shows the value of a product just my two cents John
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Let me throw this out, maybe stop someone from getting a headache,many blanks today are coming from the far east and are used by major companies Shimano for example, they use a different type of finish both on the blanks and the guides if it is a brand name rod. The finish they use is not compatible with our rod finishes in many cases the blank will act like it is covered in silicone SO the
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