Hello Forum Members,
I have a new project and need some advise. A friend recently brought me an old deep sea rod to retie a couple guides on so he could donate it to our Rotary Club fishing tournament silent (rhymes w/ tauction) this coming saturday. i told him in current condition even with the 12/0 Penn it wouldn't fetch much, but if we referbish it for next year it should fetch a pretty penny.
So here goes the questions.
I have only built new rods (4or 5) or rebuilt newer model rods (2 or 3). What am in in for with an older rod.
Based on handle and guides how old do you think this is.
What should the guidewraps be finished with? Epoxy, Permagloss, Varnish?
What material is the Forgrip? Not Wood, Not cork.
What should the guides & handle (metal) be cleaned with to remove tarnish and corrosion?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
This forum is always awsome the way the pro's help us newbs.



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J Scott
Englewood, Fl



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/09/2012 06:39PM by Jim Scott.

Hi Jim,
The guides and reel seat can be done with a quality metal polish and a LOT of elbow grease. A small polishing pad in a dremel may help in the grooves in the reelseat and hard to get at places on the guides. The result will depend on the amount of effort you can put into it. The corrosion will return in time and it will need regualr cleaning to keep it looking good.
Guide wraps on rods that old are usually finished with varnish to keep the original appearance. The photos don't really look like varnish. Might be an idea to do a bit of experimenting on a scrap piece of blank with the thread to be used with the wraps coated with both varnish and permagloss and see which suits the best. I don't think epoxy would do it justice.
You've got a lot of work ahead so good luck and I hope it turns out well. Post some pics when you get it done

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

The work involved will likely outstrip its monetary value, but it's still a nice project if you think it's something you'd enjoy doing.

The foregrip is almost certainly a Neo-Cork item. It's a composite that was popular in the 60's and 70's on boat and surf rods. Sanding it will restore it to like new condition. So too, the butt grip which is a hardwood, probably hickory.

Try CLR to clean up the chrome over brass reel seat. Be careful with any sort of abrasive there - you can easily strip off the chrome.

..........

Jim, If you can sweat the handle and gumbal apart and get me the ID's ,I will send you new ones in chrome plated brass.I also have new guides like those too.
Also; If you need space dyed thread in size 'E' or "D" let me know.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

I have one just like that sitting here waiting to be re done for a Friend

Thanks everyone for the comments so far, Keep em coming, I am learning with each one.
Col, I was wondering if epoxy would look nice or out of place on a rod like this, thanks for your insight.
Tom, Its a donation to my Rotary Club so time is free on my part, also i was wondering if CLR would work to clean metal parts, Thanks for comments
Dennis, Very kind of you to offer. Since its a donation i don't think newer parts will generate more value so i am hoping to use everything i have, but thank you anyway. What is space dyed thread?
I figured i would use D ncp. Please explain. Btw, no need to sweat anything apart, gentle twist and the gimbal and the wood handle came clear from the seat. Piece of string in for a shim is that normal or was that a trick from the rodbuilder.

Thanks again, I love this hobby & this forum.
.

J Scott
Englewood, Fl

Jim,
I echo Dennis. If you can remove the grips and reel seat, I would try to clean them up, but a new reel seat and new guides would make that a very nice fishing rod. I think you will find the finish is varnish and I think you should use three or four coats of Perma Gloss or Lumiseal. You could also use varnish and many of our sponsors stock varnish. As Tom suggested you could try CLR, but avoid abrasives because if you strip the chrome, corrosion will become a continuos chore. I would also save those pictures to show to your customers to indicate that if they don't rinse, clean with soap, rinse and, and dry the rod after fishing this is what will happen.
Mike Blomme

Jim from the photo it would appear that the reel seat was pinned on, ie they used a pop rivet to keep the reel seat from moving this would need to be removed before trying to remove the seat in the usual way, can be done and as Tom said an interesting project to take on
John

Thank you Mike & John for replies.
Took a little coaxing with a rubber mallet but as expected the seat is a twoj piece. Then pin is to oreint the male ferrile attached to the blank.
Next project on rebuild is to remove, clean and lubricate the roller guides and then polish the seat. Then i can see if i need new ones or can use the old ones. Other than some minor surface pitting i think they are in great shape and will clean up nice.

Any idea on make of the blank, its brown and weighs a lot.?
Thanks all.

J Scott
Englewood, Fl

Jim, In the period that your rod was built a lot of rods were wrapped with two color thread without underwraps.The two colors were many.
The reason its called space dyed is because some times the colors were not of equeal spacing.Meaning, say you had a spool of blue and yellow,when you would wrap a guide, or the section above the foregrip, one color may have been dyed to create a longer span of that color. I'm sure have seen it. It was very common and some of the newer thread out now is making it. Yes it was normal pratice to use mason cord and Hyde glue to put the handles togeather.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/10/2012 08:17PM by Dennis Danku.

Jim:

I am not familiar with the rod or guides you are working on. I can tell you that the finish is varnish. Probably the old Gudebrod varnish. I seem to remember that they called it "Glass". I see that Gudebrod is making varnish again. I don't know if it is the same as what they made years ago. Since you are removing the guides, it will make it easier to clean them. Since their are moving parts to these guides, you will want to take them apart, clean the parts, and possibly lubricate them. Use a good screw driver with bits that fit the screw slots properly when you take them apart and put them back together. I would use a product like "Flitz" to clean and polish the parts once they are apart. Get a bunch of pipe cleaners to get into the knooks and crannies on the frames. Looks like a great project, and for a good cause. Take your time, and this rod will be a real looker.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

Its great to hear all of this. I am really excited to get into this repair. I want to learn all i can about the components so i don't do the injustice with the repair.

Dennis, What kind of guides are these. The reelseat is like a varmac but does not have any inscription whatsoever. Could the blank be conolon?

Mike, where do i get Flitz, is that better than CLR? i plan to soak the parts, disassemble them clean and buff then reassemble and lubricate.
I have a year to do the rebuild but can't wait to get started. Very Cool!!
Thanks again forum for the knowledge.

js

Jim, I really don't know of the brand that they are,I just know that I have some in my bins. If I were to guess, I would say ALLEN.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

Jim I think the guides are either Mildrum or Allen ,about the only way to ind them is locate someone who happens to have some stuck in a box somewhere neither have been available for some time
John

Jim : Anytime I have a rebuild that I have to deal with tarnish and corrosion.I remove the guides and soak them in nothing more than distilled white vinagar.Let the guides set in the vinagar for about 5 minutes or more, swish them around in the solution a few times .Them remove them and rinse them real well with luke warm water . Set them on a paper towel and let them air dry. Then I'll take tooth paste and a tooth brush and polish them up . They have always turned out great ..Oops almost forgot to mention , make sure you give them another good rinse after using the tooth paste . This gives them a nice polished look.Works for me .
Good luck, you have a nice nice rebuild there .

<<<<DON>>>>
Fort Myers Fla.

Thanks Don, Sounds easy enough and i have those things at home. I will try it on the reel seat this evening.
I see we are somewhat close to each other. Do you have a shop or build at home. Maybe i can look you up next time i get down to the BAss PRO.

Keep em coming.

J Scott
Englewood, Fl

Jim:

Flitz is a metal polish used for guns, knives, cars, and other things. You can find it at auto parts stores like Pep Boys, Home Depot, and most sporting goods stores that sell firearms. It is good stuff.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

Thanks Mike, i will look for it then next time i am out and about.
JS

Here's an easy way to remove green saltwater corrosion on chrome and other metal parts

1. Remove the metal parts that need cleaning.

2. Fill an old glass or plastic bowl with White Vinegar. The bottom of a cutoff two-quart milk jug will do nicely. DO NOT use a metal container.

3. Immerse the parts into the bowl, making sure that the vinegar covers the parts completely.

4. Add 1 teaspoon of Baking Soda to the vinegar in the bowl. This is going to fizz up quite a bit, so take precautions.

5. Let sit 4-6 hours so the mixture can work it's magic.

The vinegar mixture will soften and/or dissolve the bulk of the green corrosion on the metal. Most of the residue will now wipe off with a paper towel, but if the corrosion was very heavy, a little buffing with will soon take care of the trouble spots. The chrome parts that have been damaged from the corrosion will still have "freckles", but it will be corrosion free

Thanks for the reply clyde, i will see how it works.
JS