Hi Guys,
Recently built a new spin rod on a HM-MB843-MHX and I came across a couple of issues that I'd never had a problem with. Usually put my name and the blank model on rods using water slide decals and haven't had many issues. On this rod the decals went on fine but when the finish went over them the decals went all "crinkly". Next time I build on a blank with no finish on it I'll put a coat of finish on before applying the decals. Also the guides were wrapped with Madeira thread and despite four coats of cp the thread around the guide feet became discoloured, the bigger the guide, the more discolouration. Have an idea to prevent this from happening again but haven't got any scrap graphite blanks without any finish to do a test on. I've given the rod to a plastics fishing guru to get his assessment so when I get it back I'll probably strip it and do a rebuild, not that the problems will cause any issues with use but it doesn't look the best. Something to watch out for if your building on one of these blanks.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Col on any flat finish blank you must apply a thin coat of finish where you want the decal to reside it will look terrible without that
CP problems many are caused by not packing the threads tight enough,numerous coats of CP will not work properly if there are minute gaps in the thread
John

I may have missed something but, what was the problem with the blank?

Hi John,
No gaps in the thread, the discolouration was just around the guide feet, the rest was fine. I've learnt my lesson with the decals and on any blanks without finish they'll be getting a coat of finish before application.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Let me throw this out, maybe stop someone from getting a headache,many blanks today are coming from the far east and are used by major companies Shimano for example, they use a different type of finish both on the blanks and the guides if it is a brand name rod.

The finish they use is not compatible with our rod finishes in many cases the blank will act like it is covered in silicone SO the best bet is ALWAYS scuff the area thoroughly with scotch brite clean with lint free cloth and apply a thin coat of finish first only takes a couple of minutes and as i said may save some big headaches
John

Hi Col,
Did you insert CP in the tunnels along side the guide feet? I noticed that if you don't do that there will be some darkening in the tunnels and at the bottom of the feet. Since I started doing that (more years ago than I want to admit) I haven't had that problem.

Mike Blomme

Hi Michael,
No I didn't and that was going to be the fix I was going to try using a plastic laboratory pippette to force cp into the tunnel. Don't do many rods without an underbind but did one a couple of months ago and it turned out fine but that blank had finish on it. Forhan locks give you a bigger tunnel but both rods were bound the same way.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Put a wet coat on the threads Let it soak in Couple of minutes Then another on a slow turner
Couple of more min you can usually see when it is ready Then I stop the turner and put a good drop over the tunnel with the guide at it's side Let soak in Then turn over and do the other

Do this when it is still wet or the CP when hard will not allow another coat to soak in

Bill - willierods.com

Hi Mathew,
No problem with the blank but I'd never built on one that didn't have a finish coat on it and that looks like it caused a couple of problems that I'd not encountered previously. Obviously I've got to change my techniques when building on a blank with no finish. Thanks to those with suggestions to prevent these problems.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia