Pac Bay Tradition 7'9" 3 wt, AMTAK holo spinning guides, feather inlay, marbled cigar grip. Middle school graduation present for my son
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This is an old photo. Made this for the grandson of a friend as a birthday present.
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The grip is a combination of Andy's stuff, regular burl and regular cork. I inlaid three feathers above the hookkeeper and then put the decal over them, never saw it done before, but I'm sure someone has.
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This is a simple mayfly weave on a 6 weight fly rod at about 20" from the butt. The pattern is a little too simple and too small with A thread.
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I finished the weave and discovered a peice of the green finish had flacked off. Doc Ski suggested marbling so I did. The thread for the Permit darkened way too much, a lot more than I thought it would.
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Grip is made from Andy Dear's burl cork, foam discs and two rings of regular burl cork on Amtak Matrix blank. Forecast double locking reel seat with gray graphite insert and Forecast detachable fighting butt.
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My first attempt at combining wood and cork in a grip
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My third(on right) and fourth attempts at this pattern and weaving in general. Left one used A thread for wraps, right one used D.
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I tried to reply to your email, but it bounced and the error is that you have exceeded your mailbox quota.
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Only if you are paranoid about it or go around with the insert immersed in water all the time.
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My question is why do you need stabilized wood? Three or four coats of thin CA will provide as much protection as you need, save you a lot money and open up a whole new world of woods you can use. CA is easily polished too. It is a very common finish for high end pool cues. Just don't buy the CA at a big box store.
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What do you need to grip? There are quite a few different jaw sets available for the chuck, so knowing what you need to grip is important to answer your question. For making reel seat inserts and grips, I never use any jaws, only the jaw slides to hold the mandrels.
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The Nova Precision Midi Chuck, without any jaws mounted will hold a 1/4" mandrel just fine. I've been doing it for more than a year. I also use it that way to hold rifle casings so I can drill out the primer end to make rifle casing pens and the casings don't even get scratched. And, save yourself a pile of money and get a Jacobs chuck from Harbor Freight, mine cost $9.99 and runs absolut
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If you have plenty of wood, try drying a piece of it in the microwave. Put it on a paper towel and "cook" it for about a minute, take it out and let it cool completely, repeat until it's dry. You can use Stan's method of weighing it before you start and when it stops losing weight, it's dry. I've done this several times and it works fine.
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John, if the chuck you have is a Nova or Technatool, you should be able to hold a 1/4" mandrel with just the jaw slides. If it's some other brand and the jaws are mounted, take them off and see if it will close far enough. The chuck you now have will not doubt be more accurate than the PSI chuck. If it won't close far enough, check with whoever you bought it from to see if there are pin j
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My question is why do you want a 3 jaw chuck. Unless what you are going to turn is already round, you won't be able to hold it with this chuck. I have a PSI 3-jaw chuck, not the model you've ordered, and it is literally a piece of garbage. I now have a Nova Precision Midi Chuck which will hold round or square objects, runs true, and will also hold a 1/4" mandrel. I believe are made in ei
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It's funny how things change. I attended the U of M for two years during which time they won one foootball game and that was against the U of British Columbia. I belonged to a group called the Cams and Dregs. We attended the games with plumbers helpers and rolls of toilet paper and cheered for the Griz until the other team scored their first TD, then we cheered for other team, unless it was th
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Here's the link to the U of M website. You will have to scroll down some. Actually, I was incorrect about the official colors, they are copper, silver and gold.
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The official UM colors are maroon, silver and gold. I agree with the other comments about garnet without CP. But, i haven't seen the Madiera colors.
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If you plan to work with this stuff a lot and want a full face shield, this is probably the best available.
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I have a Jet which does what I need it to do, BUT if I was buying one now I would absolutely buy the Rikon. It has features that I could use, mainly the indexing head. But, do you need that to make grips and reel seat inserts,; probably not. If that is all you plan to do with a lathe, you may want to look at a Jet non-VS or even the PSI Turncrafter Pro.
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Send me an email or you can also send Stan Grace an email. We both have it, although Stan may have more than I have.
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Are you buffing the Tru Oil after it dries? And what's the reason for putting Tru Oil on top of plastic?
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If you want a hard durable surface impervious to just about anything except acetone, coat the entire grip with three coats of thin CA, sand with Micro Mesh to 12,000 and then buff with 0000 steel wool. This will give you an extremely hard satin finish. I would not recommend sealing the wood with something like epoxy and then putting any kind of oil on it. In order for oil to do anything it m
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If you do your own casting, be prepared for air bubbles. I know a lot of people who do a large amounts of PR casting and every one of them uses a pressure pot to eliminate the bubbles. To do it right, PR casting is not a cheap endeavor. Anyone who doesn't use a pressure pot and hasn't had bubbles has just been lucky.
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Save yourself the trouble and also save some money and buy Alternative Ivory from Craft Supplies USA, www.woodturnerscatalog.com . You can get a piece 1" x 6" for $4.99. I've turned this stuff and it really does looks like ivory. Just don't follow their directions for turning speed, the rpm should be 1800-2600 rpm and use a really sharp skew. They also have a lot of other very nice
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With a 5/6, I would use 12# backing, then you can really get a lot on the reel.
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That depends on what chuck you use. With something like a Nova Midi chuck, you might be able to get 8-9 inches. Using a Jacobs chuck, it would less than that. Whatever lathe you get, you will need a Jacobs drill chuck so you can drill on the lathe. I use one from Harbor Freight that cost about $10 and it is probably the best deal anywhere for one of those. You'll also need a 60 degree live c
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Since you mentioned the drill, I assumed you had the hobby lathe. I would not try to drill acrylic acetate by hand. You're going to need to keep the hole really well centered and you just can't do that by hand. If there is some way to attach a chuck to the tailstock you could do it that way, but without a drill press and decent vise there just isn't any other way to do it. But, even if you ca
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I would doubt that the Grizzley hobby lathe has enough horsepower to get the job done in less than a week, assuming of course you mean the one that uses the electric drill. I turn a lot of acrylic and it can be pretty tough stuff. Nearly all of what you will find available is not round, and while the catalog may say it is 3/4 x 3/4, I have yet to find one that is truly square. Since the stuff
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