I've using double slide bands on three rods and have never had a problem with them. One has a cork seat and the other two have wood.
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@#$%& has lots of wood, just about anything you could want.
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Or you can get a glass like finish with CA in about 15-20 minutes rather than a week.
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Woodcraft sells 10" long brad point bits. They only have 7 sizes but as soft as Aspen is that should actually be OK. For Aspen, you may want to consider finishing it with 3-4 coats of thick CA. It will make it harder and somewhat more durable. You can use steel wool to knock down the gloss on CA if you want. I don't know if Aspen is softer than Juniper, but Stan Grace has had very good
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I do a lot of woodturning and can tell you that turning stabilized wood on a wood lathe is very simple, really no different than turning unstabilized wood, just slower because of the resins in the wood. Andy's DVD will get you started, but I would caution you about tools because a spindle gouge is not the right tool to use unless you're turning spindles - that's why they're called spindle gouges
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When I use CP, I use nothing but Gudebrod 811 and have wrapped several rods with garnet thread and never had that happen. You're sure what you got was 811 and not their one part finish? The two bottles look identical except for the label and the contents look basically the same. Did you thin it?
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I know Woodcraft sells it. I'm sure there are others selling it also, but since my Jet is less than 2 years old, I'm not in the market for a new one so I haven't looked.
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Mike, email me if you want any other information.
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Bear in mind that a good mini lathe is not a lightweight piece of equipment. I have a Jet that weighs about 70 pounds and would not want to have to carry it outside to use it, especially since I use it nearly every day. Attachments: depends on what you plan to use it for. At a minimum you should have a 4-jaw scroll chuck(Penn State has some good prices). If you plan on using Andy Dear's ma
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Ditto the Rikon, wish it had been on the market when I bought my lathe. I could really use that indexing feature and another couple inches of length.
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Hank, Headstock and tailstock are both #2MT. The head spindle is 1", 8tpi.
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I found out about these here and used them for my dryer. You have to get some O-rings to fit but they work really well.
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After reading through this thread I can only say that this is a truly unbelievable example of double-talk. After 40+ years of fly fishing, I know what I want in a rod, namely a relatively slow action because I originally learned to cast with a Pezon et Michel cane rod. What that means to me is that if I want a rod to use a 3 weight line, I will look for an ERN of about 2.9-3.1, because the test
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I made mine for about $4.00 and they hold 80 threads. Actually pretty easy to make.
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OK, this will probably seem like heresy, but it will work and significantly speed your process. Go to a good hobby store and get a bottle of at least medium viscosity CA, thick would be even better. You can quickly get the wraps locked in place with that and you can spread it with a piece of plastic if needed. Then you can use the 840. Whatever you do do not use CA from someplace like Home De
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Can you make a simple frame that fits over the drum drier? If you can, you could cover it with Tack Cloth, that will keep dust and bugs out but still let the air circulate. I've used the Gudebrod 840 and you can just use that and ignore the epoxy completely.
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Do the balancing with the reel. If you need more weight in the butt, use a heavier reel, if you need less weight, use a lighter reel.
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Just go get in your truck and come over here and I'll teach you how to do it. It wouldn't take more than an hour or two. Even walleye fishermen from ND can't be any slower than that. ROTFLMAO
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I'll be glad to do it for you Putter, for a price of course.
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I'll stand by my statement that you can't do it at home until I can be convinced otherwise. I know what's involved and am not interested in spending tens of thousands of dollars in the necessary equipment. If I'm proven wrong, please mail me a crow.
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Ken, it would be a complete waste of time to try to duplicate the acrylics that places like Craft Supplies sell. These things are all made by machines that are computer controlled and much more elaborate than anything you or I could afford. I know a lot of people who make some very nice PR castings and not one of them has been able to acheive the find of color definition and separation that exi
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Craft Supplies is currently selling what seems to be the largest celluloid blanks available. Arizona Silhouette sells celluloid blanks that are 3/4" square and Woodturningz.com sells blanks Inlace Acrylester blanks that are listed as 3/4 square also. It might be worth it to contact Ryan at Woodturningz and check if this is really true, because I have an Inlace blank that's 1" square,
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The Grizzly hobby lathe will not for wood. To turn wood of the sizes needed for reel seat inserts or grips, you need at least a 1/2hp motor. It will work for cork but that's just about it.
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I'm not sure why you think that most lathe chucks sold are the 3 jaw version. If you look at what's available from the good woodturning catalogs, and I don't mean PSI, you will not find any 3 jaw chucks. You will only find 4 jaw scroll chucks because that's what woodturners want. I wasted money on PSI's little 3 jaw chuck and it's a piece of junk. Several other people on this board will agree
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I have a 6 speed Jet Mini and really like it. Amazon.com currently has the VS version on sale. The PSI lathe will also do the job. If I were buying a lathe today, I would buy the Rikon VS lathe from Woodcraft. It has an indexing feature which none of the other mini lathes on the market have. You might want to check @#$%& for used mini lathes, but you never know what you might get. Scott is
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The best way to shape a cork grip is to glue the rings together on one of Andy's mandrels, put it in a lathe and shape it to the final dimensions. Then remove it from the mandrel, ream the hole if needed and mount it on the blank. If what you're suggesting is to shape the grip without the rings being glued together, I think you're only asking for some some major headaches.
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Craft Supplies USA in Provo, UT has the best pricing I've seen on Nova chuck jaws, much better than Woodcraft.
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Woodcraft is now selling a Rikon Mini Lathe which has gotten very good reviews by the woodturning community. It's the only mini lathe I know of that comes standard with an indexing head. Be aware that with any of the VS lathes, you still have to move the belt depending upon the speed range you want. There is a retrofit available, made by a woodturner, that does not require moving the belt at a
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Joe, are you using regular cork or burl cork? I only use Andy's exotic cork which is definitely tougher than ordinary cork. Trying to do that cork with just sandpaper would take hours. Using a skew on the wood, I typically start sanding at 320. The exception to using a skew is when I'm turning burl or plastic, then I use a round nose scraper.
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I glue the whole thing up using a clamp and turn it as one unit using a mandrel. I shape the cork with a rasp and the wood with a skew. Contrary to most recommendations you'll see here, I would urge you not to use a spindle gouge on the wood. A skew leaves a vastly superior finish on the wood. It takes a bit of practice, but it is really worth it. When I did the first one, I was worried abou
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