I have noticed the new people posting and I coudn't be happier to see them. We need all the new ones if we are to advance this craft. I was lucky when I started many years ago, I was taught by an expert and was taken under his wing. However when using this phorum for answers make sure you have the basics first. Derek, as you found out using rod epoxy insted of finishing epoxy. I have always been
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I have noticed a lot of people on this phorum are having a hard time getting the different epoxy types confused. They read a thread and put the suggestion into their working area without having a basic idea of the type of epoxy they are using. Please use the glossary at the top of the page before you start a project , if you are not completely familiar with the different types. Rod building epoxi
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Have any of you who have made military rods used an eagle globe & anchor decal? If so where did you get it. I could have Decal Connection make it but I only need one decal. If you know of availability or have a decal to spare contact me and I'll pay for it. Thanks.
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Scott, Hope you get the rod. I have gone down the same path and have enjoyed it . I agree that the bamboo can't give the same performance for the weight that graphite can but there is something in the feel of bamboo that can't be done with graphite. The feeling that you are holding a rod that was a living organism is part of the mistique. For your information, Shakespeare did not make
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Mike. I would use rod bond for acrylic to other materials but if bonding acrylic to acrylic go to a dental supply site and look at what they use for manufacturing false teeth and bridges. When I was shoeing horses I used a dental acrylic kit to build up places in the hoof that were damaged or missing. This stuff sets up real fast but has a great bond. As a matter of fact it could be used for cast
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Larry, you could consider doing a ferruled handle to extend this blank. Build your handle with the female end of a metal ferrule at the top of your handle, it will be hidden by your cork, then put the male end on your blank butt. You can wrap over this and hide it also. You can have the length of an extension and the ease of a breakdown handle and not sacrifice the strength. Just a thought, I hav
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My wife does oil painting and I have used several of her tubes of paint with good results. The variety you can get is astounding.
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For the past couple of years I have enjoyed this site everyday. I have met several fellow rod builders and made many friends here. I am taking a break from buiding rods in exchange for moving and building a new home and shop. The change from Mississippi to Iowa will be great but we are looking foreward to it. My shop will be relocated to the NE part of the state and I hope to meet many of my fell
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Dan, All new builders go through various stages. When they start they usually copy factory rods and produce very nice products. But as I went along I realized that I was not producing a true custom rod but only a factory copy, better rod but still a copy. When I began to branch out and get more innovated using different type eyes, handle material and better guide spacing I began to produce
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The old Medalist reels made in USA ar selling on E bay at 40-50 dollars each if they are in good shape.
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Steve, I assume that both of these rods are fiberglass? acting on that assumption you paid a decent price for them. The trailmaster would refinish up fine if you don't like the present colors and the same with the other one. Probably would not hurt the value of either as glass rods have not reached the prominance of bamboo. They have their real value in the use of them. As far as the reels the Pf
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Guess I'm going to have to jump in here and open a can of worms. Here goes, I'm not too sure where all this heat everything info comes from but it is one of my pet peaves. Look at my pictures in my gallery, in almost 30 years of building rods I have seldom used heat for any finishing operation, neither on my CP or epoxy. I personally believe it causes more problems than it cures. I really wonder
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You don't have to do it but to me it looks like some thing someone picked up at wally world.
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Whan I started to use this forum I found out several things I had been doing for years "wouldn't work". I have always taken the view of try something for yourself and see if it works or not. I have never used heat or thinned any finish. I have used all the popular finishes avaivable in the past 25 years. If you havn't been told it doesn't work you don't know any better. I can see how th
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Check with Andy Dear, he handles CTS, I know they have one, also Gatti makes one.
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Ray, That sounds great, I haven't tried dye but I have used a little food coloring to lightly tint a finish and it also works ok. It give a clear tranluscent colored wrap.
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Stan, Built up a beauty using an 8 ft seeker live bait blank, split grip and cord wrapped in between. Try it, I think you'll like it.
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Ed, Shoot me an E-mail. I have a Herter's catalog from the early 70's.
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Jan, "A" thread will work fine but if you want something a little smaller consider silk. The gossmer silk used for bamboo rods is about right for what you have envisioned. Incidently I have have had the same experience with that blank as Jeff has and agree it works better with a 4 wt line.
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I will say Tru Oil also, however I have used Permagloss too. Apply light multiple coats letting each one set up in between. It gives a very hard resistant finish without darkening the wood. It is a little tricky to use but will give very good results. I apply mine while turning on my dryer at about 4 RPM.
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They are available from Netcraft one of our sponsers on your left.
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Thank you all for your help. You have pretty well confirmed what I already suspected. I have used these for shooting eyes on fly rods and on UL spin rods but have shied away from them on bass rods for the reasons given. You all have pretty well summed it up. I was just wondering if anyone had found anything to the contrary.
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Does anyone have any information or experience with the berkley type guides sold by Netcraft. I have use them for shooting eyes and on spinning rods and really like their weight and simplicity. Now I have a request to use them on a bass rod and I am getting some reservations on how they will hold up to braided lines. I don't know what their thin rings are coated with.
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Ken, Correction, that rod was a 6 1/2 ft. rod Janns Netcraft #296-209. They still carry it and it made a nice little rod. It's a 2 piece medium action blank.
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Craig, Try a Bar B Q rotisserie motor.
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Ken, Couple of years ago I built a 6 ft 5 wt fly rod on an ultralight spin blank from Netcraft, they still carry the blank in their catalog. It comes in matte black and plum which is a very nice brown color. It should fill the bill nicely for what you want.
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I went ahead & marbled it in blue & white. Will post pictures when the rod is done.
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I have the Amtak with the blue band but this customer wants a completely blue reel seat. I've tried Krylon on one and it is OK but I want more of a glossy look, I'm in the process of testing tinted permagloss but I don't know how well it will stick or how it will hold up in the long run.
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Hey Y'all, I am in need of a blue trigger reel seat with the rod cutout of 0.433 in. Merrick handles Fuji but I have been told that they don't carry it in this size. Anybody got any other suggestions? I am tempted to try to permagloss paint one or marble one.
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Good advice from everyone, let me add this to it. If you will purchase one of the glue sticks from one of our sponsers,you can hold those single foot guides in place while you wrap but it also has the added advantage of giving a buffer between the rod and the guide foot. Heat the stick in your flame and touch the guide foot to it and stick it on the rod and hold down with your thumb for a few sec
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