Ray I only haggle over the price. If they are willing to pay the price I'll build it the way they want it. However if I'm not proud of it my name does not go on it. They will get a blank rod with no inscription.
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I do the same as Mike does and if the ramp is too steep use the super glue to assist walking it up. However if you are not planning on using a color presever don't use super glue as it will act as a color presever and the spots will show through. Use a NCP thread or as I do use metalic thread. If you use a pull through method it is hard to get a smooth tranistion at the end of the ramp, that is w
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Trim your epoxy up to your thread very carefully with a razor blade or exacto knife, be careful not to cut into the blank. After you have the epoxy trimmed right up next to the end of your wrap put in your trim thread pack it well and add another coat of epoxy to the entire wrap. Make sure you only trim the excess epoxy up to the end of your wrap, leave the rest of the thread alone. I've done thi
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Here is a technique I have used for quite a while and would like to share, if you use winding checks or wish to cap a foregrip or use no foregrip. Go by your local tire shop and pick up some of the used valve stem bases they cut off when replacing them. Trim the lip form the end with a box cutter or razor hobby knife, then ream out to fit your rod. You can build a ramp or use them as is, you can
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Built a full wells grip on an 8' 6" five piece blank and made it 8 inches long and thinned it down to fit my hand. Most comfortable grip I have used, just be sure you scale it down to match the light rod.
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Steve, I've used them on light rods that were not going to be abused or used for heavy work. They are great for things like small stream trout or blue gills. I've had no problems with them, however due to the material in them I would not recomend them for braidrd line as I'm sure they will groove over time.
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I have used it on old fiberglass fly rods, worked fine. Use a sponge brush and make only one or two passes for a coat, hang the rod up to dry. Some people split the end of the brush and then make their passes with the rod in the split.
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To clean out the finish behind the eyes use a piece of thread, wrap it around both your hands like you were going to floss your teeth, then slide it behind the eye just like flossing. The excess finish will be soaked up by the thread. I use this method as the final touch after wicking off all exces finish.
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Net Craft has examples of actual sizes in their catalog
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I know Bill has more experience on the heavier rods and he is very observant. I have built dozens of fresh water spinning, casting and fly rod rods with metallics and have never had a failure yet. Yes, guide prep is very important. Strength wise, they have handled about all the fresh water fishing conditions.
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I use the same method as Duane but I apply my epoxy with a round applicator stick, I just roll it off the thread and hold in place as the rod turns.
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It is a marine epoxy and yes it has been used on rods way back when I started to build. However at that time we did not have the quality rod finishes of today. It will turn yellow in time, I have still used a little of it for marbleing and using a dark color to cover the yellowing. As a new rod builder that wants to use quality product I would stick to the new products.
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When I'm worried about being able to see the guide foot through th wrap I use a sharpie and have never had a problem. If I am going to use CP then I don't color the guide foot because I won't see it through the wrap anyway. I have used alconites a lot and always colored with a sharpie.
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Marty, I don't claim to be an expert in this area but I believe that if the fit to the taper of the rod is correct then there should be no problem. I have done many ferruled handles on bamboo rods using metal ferrules to join the handle to the rod and I am working on a pack rod now. This rod is a 5 piece 9 ft, 6 wt graphite fly rod. I built the handle with the fly reel seat then I found an old r
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I would like to thank Ralph for the development of this product. I've used it since it came on the market. I will admit there is a learning curve and I made a few mistakes when I started. One was never use it over plasticote paint even if it had aged for 7 days. Also as far as storage goes I keep mine in the refrigerator and don't use a cap and screw as many have found useful. I have had no probl
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I have a request for a cherry red rod. Is any one still making a blank like this? I think he has something like the old Berkley model in mind. I used to be able to get them from Mudhole but I think their supply dried up. Thanks for any info.
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I have used both on wood grips depending on the use of the rod or my mood at the time. Permagloss is a urethane and takes a little practice to use. My method is to set the wood up on my dryer at about 4 rpm and apply a thin coat of it, let it dry and repeat. It usually takes me 3 coats to finish. This works for me but everyone has to find what works for them.
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I have a power wrapper and used to turn grips on it before I got a lathe. It will work just fine and you have the grips already on the rod. However if you make a mistake you have to peel it off the rod. No big deal to do, since I have the lathe and the mandrels and I also do wood, I find it easy and more convenient to use the lathe. The custom power wrap machine is made to lathe cork and will wor
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Rich, I made a couple of rods up for smallmouth in rivers that fit your bill. Use whatever brand of blank that pleases you but I've settled on a 6 and a half foot spinning blank with a butt of .475 and a #5 tip, this has given me the fast tip and butt power to throw 1/4 to3/8 oz. lures on 8 wt line. Whatever casting reel you use will also affect your ability to get the most out of this rig. Don't
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Been using one for about 3 years, I got the extended tailstock and I've been quite pleased with the whole outfit.
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I'm sorry but I don.t understand why the problem? I use a tensioner on a power wrapper and have never had a problem with fraying metallics. Like Putter I use a lot of metallics. They do have a bit of stretch to them so you have to let up a bit on the tensioner. Because of this elasticity they are hard to get a good butt wrap but after working with them a while you adjust to them. They are a bit d
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Go to Lowes or Home Depot and check out the nuts and bolts section and find metal washers, you shold find what you want.
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David, As I said in my E-mail to you, I am sure that there are quite a few Wisconsin and Minnesota builders also interested so why not make it a regional rendezvous.
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Get a roll of lead tape, cut off the required amount, bend, fold and hammer to shape. Epoxy in place,works every time.
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David, your E mail is hidden. Get in touch with me, I'm in NE Iowa, maybe I can help.
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I have found that Tru Oil is worthless on coco bolo and have settled on fine polishing and a coat of carnuba wax or for several coats of Perma glos as Tom suggested.
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Tom, even though you can't go fishing you do deserve a break. As one who has been with the magazine since it's first or 2nd year, it has brought me a great deal of satisfaction and help. Rest easy knowing you are not the only one who has not had the time this year, my fishing and rodbuilding has been put off because of the move from Mississippi to Iowa. Not exactly the same reason you have but ne
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Daniel, I've done several grips by using a hole saw to cut plugs from boards and gluing them up on a mandrel and then putting them on the lathe for finishing. Red cedar was the first I tried, and it worked well. It is brittle and you may lose a few rings but you can just glue new ones up. I have used Tite Bond III and Rod Bond, either one works. One advantage of using a hole saw is that you have
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I have used a citrus type mild stripper that I got at Lowes on at least 2 dozen bamboo rods and have never had a problem. Michael Sinclair discusses this in his book, just follow directions.
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Bill, Tom has the best advice on this for you. You say you don't want books but they will be your best bet on this. You are going to run into a ton of advice on the different web sites , some good and others way out. How are you going to find out which is which? Michael Sinclair's book is about the best I have found and it can be by your side for reference as you work and you will refer to it a l
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